Bonfils: Producer profile and 10 wines tasted

Though Vignobles Bonfils are familiar overseas, its wines also are well known throughout French supermarkets and as house wines in restaurants.

In 1870, the Bonfils family left Alsace for Oran in Algeria, where they planted a 139ha estate of vines and oranges. Upon Algerian independence in 1962, the family returned to France. Starting at Domaine de Lirou in the Languedoc, Jean-Michel Bonfils produced bulk wine and grew the business.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 10 Bonfils wines tasted

Buying into the ideas of Robert Skalli and Jacques Gravegeal—who, with their vision of varietal wines, were creating what would become the IGP Pays d’Oc—Jean-Michel bought the Domaine de Cibadiès in 1978. Much to his father’s horror, he planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines, both then unfamiliar in the region.

He chose to focus on hillside sites which provided each grape variety with adequate sunshine. Further changes came in 1990, when the fifth generation, Laurent, Jérôme and Olivier, joined the business and Vignobles Bonfils began bottling its wines, moving them upmarket.

Growth and acquisitions

Further estates were purchased, extending the range of styles and appellations supplied: Domaine d’Aubaret (34ha) in 1992, Château de Cantaussels (116ha) in 1995, Domaine Vaugelas (Corbières, 144ha) in 2000 and Château de Millegrand (Minervois, 235ha) in 2003.

In 2007 Bonfils began developing their exports, buying Domaine Demeure in 2008 and acquiring the negociant business of Maurel Vedeau to expand their international business.

An eye for nineteenth century châteaux is clearly evident. These grand properties reflect the wealth and prestige of the Languedoc’s then landowners, who supplied food and wine throughout France until phylloxera and two world wars reduced their wealth.

The Bonfils family purchased Château Les Carrasses (63ha) and Château Capitoul (La Clape, 92ha) in 2011, and Château l‘Esparrou (Roussillon, 92ha) in 2012. They stopped working as negociants in 2013 and bought two more estates in 2014: Château St-Pierre de Serjac (100ha) and Château Villerambert Julien (159ha).

Building on the growth in wine tourism, the group has transformed Château Les Carasses, Château Saint-Pierre de Serjac and Château Capitoul into luxury hotels and residential villages, hoping to make them wine destinations.

Consolidation and regional focus

The family recently consolidated their range of 400 labels down to 200, seeking to be better known and aiming to reach a more premium market. To reflect environmental excellence, they achieved certification of all their estates at the highest level of sustainability, High Environmental Value 3 (HVE), in 2019 and expect organic certification by the end of 2021.

Laurent’s passion for local wildlife is evident when he talks about the flora and fauna and his reintroduction of the small lapin de Garenne.

An increased emphasis on regional styles and single vineyard wines is increasing diversity of the estate’s offering. Harvests span over two months depending on location and varieties.

Laurent feels the name of a château has greater selling power than its appellation, ‘Everyone knows Corbières, but it struggles to command a higher price’.

The boost given by wine tourism is leading to a greater focus on regionality, further enhanced by using locally-trained winemakers and the encyclopedic knowledge of long-term employee and estate manager, Christian Mignard, who knows the vineyards inside out.

In an attempt to enhance regional styles, the wines of Château Capitoul are often fermented in cement, while those of Château St Pierre de Serjac in tank.

With rosé (especially the Provence style) and white wines increasing in importance, recent experiments away from obvious commercial trends include an oak-aged rosé, Rive (created by Laurent’s son Thomas); a Bourboulenc made in Stockinger barrels to experiment with different weight and texture; and an orange wine.

Most notable is the atmosphere of a close family, working together and energised to develop their business, with dynamic innovation on the horizon and a range of wines seeking greater presence overseas.

See tasting notes and scores for 10 Bonfils wines:

Wines are shown in score order

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