Bordeaux 2020 in bottle: overview plus top-scoring wines
Another vintage of extremes in Bordeaux, with both challenging weather and pandemic lockdowns sparing few. Yet 2020 has produced a number of excellent wines and in parts can be confirmed as the conclusion of a great trilogy.
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Bordeaux 2020 at a glance
A challenging vintage in which difficulties were faced both in and beyond the vineyards, with lockdowns and Covid-19 restrictions adding to mildew, unprecedented drought, heatwaves and harvest storms.
Overall red wine vintage rating: 4/5
Good but variable quality and quantity, with the third-lowest yields in a decade after 2013 and 2017.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-rated Bordeaux 2020 wines
Coming soon: all 900 tasting notes and scores PLUS
Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines
Pauillac | St-Julien | St-Estephe | Margaux | Pessac & Graves | St-Emilion |Pomerol
It’s both a blessing and a curse approaching an in-bottle vintage ‘blind’ as it were, having not tasted these wines en primeur. There are no expectations, meaning each is judged on its own merits, yet there’s a lack of context and inability to detect improvements over time.
It’s also difficult tasting so many wines over an extended period, putting those tasted in November 2022 at a potential disadvantage to those tasted at the beginning of February this year. Even so, many of the 2020s were in general much less friendly, less approachable and less charming than the 2019s were at the same point in their development; however, the vintage also produced some of the most detailed, precise and compelling young wines I’ve ever tasted.
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Comparatively, the 2020s offer a combination of the 2005 and 2016 vintages in terms of structure and refinement – more elegant and fresh than the ripe and opulent 2018s, and more focused but less immediately charming than the 2019s. It’s a trio of vintages offering something for every Bordeaux lover.
Wines of the vintage
Left Bank Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 1CC
Pessac-Léognan Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion
Right Bank Petrus, Pomerol
Other 100 point wines;
Château Trotanoy
Château Troplong Mondot
Much to anticipate
This report offers a snapshot of the 900-plus wines sampled, highlighting the very best of a vintage in which not everyone succeeded. And while resources, ability to react and technical proficiency were imperative in 2020, it was also down to luck, timing and terroir (see ‘Weather & conditions’ box, below).
The best wines offer personality, sleekness, concentration, smooth tannins and abundant freshness – ‘classic’ claret markers that put you squarely in their appellations. Pauillac and St-Estèphe particularly shone, as did Pomerol. They manage to combine richness with purity and definition, and you certainly feel that these wines have been fine-tuned in the cellars with careful extractions, meticulous tannin management and sensitive use of oak (in addition to ageing in larger wooden barrels and amphorae for oxygen control).
It’s not a Left Bank or Right Bank vintage – though as a generalisation, older, more established vines on cooler terroirs, and areas that saw more rain at crucial times, had the biggest success in 2020, with some excellent Cabernets produced in the Médoc and brilliant Merlot on clay and limestone soils in St-Emilion and Pomerol.
Despite lower alcohol levels in general compared to 2019, some wines fell into over-maturity with high alcohols and low acidities. With a 0.5% labelling tolerance, many wines showing as 14.5% (let alone 15% or 15.5%!) feel far more potent than advertised, and while they may entice for one glass, they’re unlikely to be emptied as quickly as those with lower levels.
Weather & conditions: Bordeaux 2020
The growing season followed a similar pattern to 2016, 2018 and 2019, with a wet spring followed by a dry, hot summer, and a warm, dry harvest. Unlike 2016 and 2019, it was an early vintage like in 2018.
The growing season began with an unseasonably warm winter – the highest temperatures for a century, though November and December were extremely wet helping build up necessary ground water followed by a relatively dry and warm January and February.
A mild March and warm April (the third highest in a century behind 2007 and 2011) triggered bud break two to three weeks earlier than usual with rainstorms conducive to rapid growth of vine shoots. Early flowering occurred in late May under warm, dry conditions.
After summer-like weather in May (save two hailstorms, one particularly damaging in St-Emilion), June came with frequent rainfall that amplified the threat of mildew and, in some cases, enacted a painful replication of 2018 where major crop losses were suffered.
The weather then radically changed from mid-June onwards, enforcing a dry spell that lasted nearly two months. From 18 June to 11 August there were 54 days of drought. It was one of the driest Julys on record with veraison occurring in the latter part of the month after which the heat was turned up peaking at 39 degrees at the end of the month putting vines at risk of blockage especially on soils without great water-storage capacity (sand and gravel).
Water stress increased in early August especially for shallow-rooted young vines. A mid-August heatwave triggered a series of thunderstorms that saw localised rainfall with parts of the northern Médoc receiving 120mm of rain while parts of St-Emilion saw 10mm.
A dry and sunny September with temperatures in the mid 30s saw accelerated ripening with Merlots and early-ripening Cabernets being harvested in mostly fine conditions as they dodged spells of heat and rain. Later-ripening Cabernets had a shorter picking window, some being harvested in haste due to deteriorating weather conditions and before Storm Alex hit on 2nd October while the rest were picked in early October.
Chance to stock up
Invariably, the top-scoring wines comprise many of the most illustrious names and famed terroirs, with very little to separate them overall. Despite encouraging moves towards producing wines with earlier drinkability, many of these wines will require long cellaring and won’t hit their stride until they’re at least 10 years old, becoming even better at the 20th and 30th year mark.
There are, however, plenty of lovely wines in 2020 that balance freshness and concentration, ready for drinking sooner. Given the increasingly turbulent, and in some cases perilous circumstances winemakers further down Bordeaux’s hierarchical quality pyramid are facing, now’s the time to be filling your cellars and everyday glasses with great-value and great-quality, ageable and enjoyable wines that are to be found in the lower and mid-range tiers.
The Market
According to Matthew O’Connell, CEO of LiveTrade and Head of Investment at Bordeaux Index, ‘En Primeur 2020 had a pretty good take-up, but demand was predominantly focussed on a clutch of wines for which the price-quality relationship was convincing (by value sold, the spread of wines was less diverse than usual).
‘A long way from the broad-based buying that characterised vintages such as 2016, let alone 2009 and 2010. As in 2019, availability was a challenge as châteaux/négociants limited supply of the more in-demand names.
‘Post EP, demand has been thin but as the wines become physical – around now – we would expect to see more interest. As ever, where the price is correct and the wine commands a strong narrative then there will be good demand. Where either of these elements are absent, we would expect secondary market interest to be more limited.
‘We are strongly of the view that contemporary Bordeaux often represents excellent value across the price spectrum; Châteaux Lafite, Margaux and Haut Brion were unsurprisingly compelling; Figeac, Lynch Bages and Pichon Lalande are amongst their finest recent iterations’, O’Connell concluded.
For Mathieu Chadronnier, Managing Director of Bordeaux négociant CVBG, he says; ‘Stylistically, I’ve always seen 2020 as the synthesis of both 2018 and 2019. It combines the irresistible charm of 2018 with the purity and grace of 2019.
‘2020 sets a new standard in terms of quality and style. As such, it is as testament to Bordeaux’s ability to constantly learn, adapt, evolve and progress.
‘Thanks to a historic succession of great vintages, Bordeaux is in a strong position. To the consumer, within a fine wine market that is more exciting and diverse than it’s ever been, Bordeaux remains a reference point in terms of quality, ageability and accessibility. There’s probably never been a more interesting time to buy Bordeaux, and the 2020 vintage is the best illustration of this.’
Standouts & value picks
2020 Left bank
St-Estèphe Château de Pez; Pauillac Batailley, Haut-Bages Libéral, Haut-Batailley, Pibran; St-Julien Beychevelle, Lagrange; Margaux Kirwan; Pessac-Léognan Domaine de Chevalier, Le Thil; Haut-Médoc Lamothe-Bergeron, Les Hauts de Lynch-Moussas; Médoc La Tour de By Héritage Marc Pagès
2020 Right bank
Pomerol Châteaux Bonalgue, La Pointe; St-Emilion De Pressac, La Rose Perrière Clos les Grandes Versannes, Haut Roc Blanquant, L’Etampe; Lalande de Pomerol La Chenade, Les Cruzelles; Fronsac De La Dauphine; Bordeaux Supérieur Grand Village
See tasting notes and scores for the top-rated Bordeaux 2020 wines
The following 40 wines all scored 97 points or above
Related articles
- Bordeaux 2020 wines: our en primeur verdict
- Which Bordeaux 2020 wines sold best en primeur?
- Anson: Bordeaux 2020 harvest – An insider guide
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France, 2020

The best 2020s seem to be confident without showing off or shouting too loudly and this Carmes does just that. Focused and precise, this is complex and characterful, rich yet vibrant with a texture and taste that makes an impact straight away. Fresh black fruits, floral notes and sensational minerality do the talking - it has weight, density and structure - broad and bold yet svelte, it has direction and persistence, building quickly then settling and elongating with such clarity and purity. This is a wine you want to drink. Cool, classic, sharp and decisive with a flawless texture. Whereas 2019 was more generous, this is more classic and easy to understand. An excellent job - seemingly effortless winemaking in 2020 - and a bottle that is sure to be emptied pretty quickly.
2020
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Château Les Carmes Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Dark fruits on the nose, blackcurrants and cherries with savoury nuances of dark chocolate and tobacco. Fresh and forward on the palate, this hits you square on, still very lean and direct, almost piercing and severe in its intensity and drive, though wonderfully precise: it’s like an arrow. Serious and focussed yet full and layered, the texture is lovely, a slight graininess that lingers but it’s the acidity and the fruit purity that are so excellent - they give such a sense of vibrancy and make this wine so thrilling. You get a feeling of pent-up energy, but after a few minutes the slight density of the ripe fruit comes through, giving some plushness and weight. I love the Cabernet details and the mineral element that leaves the mouth cool and fresh. A well constructed, subtle beauty.
2020
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Château Mouton RothschildPauillac
Château Troplong Mondot, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2020

A sensational Troplong. Vibrant and vivid, this makes you smile from the first smell: milk chocolate, floral notes of roses and lavender, wet stones, liquorice, cinnamon and ripe bramble fruits. Round and thrilling on the palate, tannins are abundant with a chalky blueberry coolness while a salty tang settles around the mouth. Lovely precision and purity of fruit; you feel the sharp definition - still linear which makes it less immediately charming than the 2019 but giving undeniable complexity. Deep but not heady, this remains pure and detailed, with a leanness from the terroir really setting this apart. After a few minutes, the glamour starts to appear giving a salivating, succulent and moreish aspect to the finish. An absolute beauty.
2020
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Château Troplong MondotSt-Émilion
Château Trotanoy, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2020

A sure fire hit in 2020 and one of my absolute favourites of the vintage. Perfumed black cherries, roses and dark chocolate on the nose: ripe and fresh aromas. The crystalline fruit purity and finesse is wonderful while still filling the mouth with a density to the crushed velvet-textured tannins that give the structure and cushioning. Seriously appealing and charming, it’s big and clearly powerful with layers of black fruit, but it has a sense of restraint where nothing feels overworked. Perfectly weighted with balance, poise and persistence – you know you're drinking something special here.
2020
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Château TrotanoyPomerol
Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2020

A seriously impressive Petrus in 2020. Less hedonistic and instantly emotional than 2019, more sultry, almost shy and reserved but with definition, weight, succulence and suppleness that shines through. It has a silky tannic tension and clear power but not heft, only a soft muscular expansion that comes with a grip and chew to the black fruits with medicinal, liquorice edges and mouthwatering acidity. Understated yet utterly captivating, it takes its time to come out of its shell - a little serious right now but at the same time it’s stylish with a bright, lifted finish reminding you of the juicy freshness that’s possible even in such warm vintages. A shining star that will be magnificent in time.
2020
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PetrusPomerol
Château Bélair-Monange, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Striking yet elegant, this holds its own being tasted after the more plush and ripe Trotanoy while this is more focussed and streamlined. Just as confident, concentrated and intense but in a different way completely. This is more reserved, refined and less overt, with an incredible purity and precision to the layers of red berry fruit and salinity from the limestone. Such nuance and detail, this is seductive with a powdery texture to the tannins. Really very well worked. Hard to pick a favourite as the length and overall sculpting here are exceptional. A gorgeous wine with star power that really leaves a lingering impression.
2020
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Château Bélair-MonangeSt-Émilion
Château Canon, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2020

A classy, open, expressive and radiant Canon in 2020. Less plush than I was expecting on the palate, this is linear, focussed and refined with a core of juicy red fruits; raspberries, strawberries and cherries. High acidity gives the lifeforce and sense of joy while still remaining structured and forward. Definitely not as big, or weighty as some in St-Emilion, this is more sophisticated with well integrated, very fine tannins and good use of oak. It’s not trying too hard, elegant and charming as Canon does so well with freshness and a wide, expansive finish. Clarity and intensity. Brilliant.
2020
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Château CanonSt-Émilion
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Evocative and moreish, a Ducru that beguiles and delights from the start with a scented nose full of cedar, rose, violets, cherries and damsons - a riot of Cabernet typicity. Vibrant and pulsing on the palate, this has grip and intention from the get-go. Massy, full and wide in the mouth - there’s density and this is broad but it’s delicate too - a sense of weightlessness with such movement and energy and a soft sweet, succulent grip throughout. Powerful with present tannins that unravel slowly so there’s time to appreciate the details as they come. A thoughtful and intellectual wine that leaves a smile on your face.
2020
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Château Ducru-BeaucaillouSt-Julien
Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Sumptuous and stylish, this, like many of the best in 2020, is quietly confident showing just enough structure and seriousness while still being joyous and sensual. Blueberries, pomegranates and raspberries comprise the clear and crystalline fruit with cooling minty freshness alongside touches of dark chocolate and licks of medicinal and exotic spices. Tannins are supple and just chewy, giving the perfect weight to the palate with a wet stone aspect to the long finish. Totally moreish, I adore this wine.
2020
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Château La Fleur-PétrusPomerol
Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

An utterly brilliant Lafite - a sense of understated charm, it’s certainly not shouting but delivers a bright, sharp, joyous sensation. Almost subtle in its presentation with delicacy and refinement on show yet such clear power underneath. An incredible aromatic display with ripe black fruits, pepper, liquorice and crushed stones - calm, controlled and contained with beautiful tannin integration and a chalky, salinity on the finish. Supremely complete with mass appeal.
2020
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Château Lafite RothschildPauillac
Château Latour, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Smooth, round and bright, there is a controlled sense to this, quiet and contemplative with aromas of coffee, tobacco, dried cherries, floral scents and liquorice offset by a juicy core giving clear acidity and freshness with freshly picked strawberry and red cherry fruit flavours. Bright and fun, the texture is dominating right now, the tannins fully on show but so well integrated - they support the fruit giving the frame, width and expansion - really providing the backbone to the overall expression. Forward and characterful, Latour can sometimes be more lean and mean, especially so young, but this is focussed and sleek, delicate and open - it really makes you smile with a vein of iron/saltiness that lingers.
2020
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Château LatourPauillac
Château Margaux, Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Cool and confident, an effortless Margaux that’s a clear success in 2020. Vivid colour in the glass with a delicately perfumed nose. Smooth and graceful on the palate, silky yet rich too, deepening in layers, much more vertical than wide at this point but with clear concentration. It expands slowly but surely, really taking its time before the juicy, chewy, succulent blackcurrant, liquorice, clove, sweet spice and cooling menthol touches come forward. Nuanced and detailed with precision and clarity to the taste and overall sensation. A Margaux for the ages.
2020
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Château MargauxMargaux
Château Ausone, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Deep and layered with rich, ripe blackcurrant, cherry and plum fruit that expands slowly while the texture – sleek, straight and direct – does the talking. Clean with a powdery mineral grip of liquorice and graphite that takes hold and doesn't let go. Structured and focused, no doubt muscular in its power yet so finely knit together. Laser-sharp, serious at the moment, this will take a while before it really starts to shine. It's not out to charm right now but it certainly captivates.
2020
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Château AusoneSt-Émilion
Château Calon-Ségur, St-Estèphe, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Very deep perfumed nose; the 1% Petit Verdot is quite potent and intense with ripe fruit aromas. Super-smooth and silky on the palate however, just so juicy and lovely with ample balance. A lovely energy and freshness comes across as both sharp and well defined – succulent but remaining intense and linear in terms of structure. The weight comes from plump, ripe fruit – the blackcurrant, black cherry and plum offset by a cooling minerality and wet stone, pencil lead minerality. It has richness for sure, the concentration is there, but also sleight of hand, so well executed and long. Really very impressive.
2020
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Château Calon-SégurSt-Estèphe
Château Cheval Blanc, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Satisfying, edgy and seductive. The 2019 was perhaps more openly charming at this point, but there is lovely attention to detail here with delicate floral aromas, blue fruit and liquorice aspects on the nose followed by a patina of flavours and textures on the palate. Rich and powerful, clearly concentrated but delivered subtly and carefully, not pushed too far. There's a clarity, precision and purity to the blackcurrant and black cherry fruit, with crushed stone saltiness, clove, aniseed and liquorice root. I loved the 2019 more at this stage but this has excellent potential for long ageing and will no doubt deliver unbridled enjoyment when it's ready.
2020
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Château Cheval BlancSt-Émilion
Château Figeac, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2020

A ripe, herbal-edged nose full of Cabernet Franc perfumed florality; violets, plums, black cherries and figs. Compelling weight on the palate, this has density and drive from the first sip with tannins that are really well integrated but have more of a juicy, high-acid edge than overtly plush, with a soft chalkiness and real mineral vein - the graphite, wet stone edges giving clear terroir markers. Lots of tension here, direct and focused; you can feel the sculpting but there’s lots of energy too – such liveliness underpinning the serious core and wide, firm structure. Poised, layered and complex, a lot going on with cinnamon, clove and cedar on the finish. A total knock-out where each sip gives a slightly different facet building to an impressive whole. Such is Figeac’s power of seduction, this makes you want to sit with it for a while marvelling at the complexity with a smile on your face. A Figeac that you're going to have to wait for, and just have lots of the excellent Petit Figeac in the meantime!
2020
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Château FigeacSt-Émilion
Château Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Detailed and delicate, this has a seductive charm to it, slowly displaying scented blueberries and raspberries, before layers of salty minerality, liquorice, and cooling blue fruits come into play as well as tobacco and liquorice adding a savoury touch. It’s not immediately upfront - more calm and collected, slowly growing in stature and presence. Tannins are fine but mouthcoating, giving the structure, this isn't a light wine, but it's supremely elegant and excellently textured. Impressive complexity and drama here, still very serious but it's sublime too. A luminous wine I'd love to own.
2020
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Château Gruaud-LaroseSt-Julien
Château L'Évangile, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Glamour and seduction in spades at L'Evangile giving classic Pomerol typicity with a kick. Floral and expressive on the nose with pink and purple flowers, pink peppercorns, white and dark chocolate, raspberries and black cherries. Gorgeous texture on the palate, rich, deep, potent in the weight and tannic frame - chalky, ripe, mouthfilling, gently chewy giving bounce to the blackcurrant, plum, strawberry and cherry fruit while the minerality and salinity give a cool, fresh undercurrent. Clearly youthful and strict but such long length, really direct and focussed. Sleek yet muscular, everything feels precise and sculpted with a lingering clove and cinnamon edge giving the angles and tension right now. Clean and straight with precision, shape and style, tons of energy and juiciness. A great wine.
2020
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Château L'ÉvangilePomerol
Château La Conseillante, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2020

A seriously memorable wine from La Conseillante in 2020. Uplifting and glamorous with blackcurrant patisserie, scented flowers - the Cabernet Franc showing itself on the nose, alongside herbal touches with dark chocolate. Immediately juicy and so lively and bright on the palate turning creamy with a combination of chalky and bitter tannins and touches of wet stone lifted by the almost sweet Merlot fruit with freshness all the way through. A real ‘drink me’ wine with balance and harmony that grows and expands as it opens.
2020
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Château La ConseillantePomerol
Château Lafleur, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Smooth, supple and alive in the glass, this has an energy and brightness. It’s compact and there’s density and concentration, but coiled right now, almost narrow, driving the flavours vertically. Seriously elegant, sophisticated and intellectual with the savoury elements of wet stone, liquorice, dried earth, tobacco and an iris and violet florality lingering and dominating, but this manages to be complex and detailed with polished tannins and a sense of absolute purity. A great Lafleur that will take its time, only just offering a glimpse of what’s to come.
2020
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Château LafleurPomerol
Château Larcis Ducasse, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Perfumed nose, heady and seductive, the aromas shining out of the glass. Full, rich and vibrant tones of blackcurrant and black cherry. Ripe and chewy, the tannins really are present and grippy but have a plushness and a bounce to them, they coat the entire mouth, seriously wide and expansive but are gentle even in their fillingness. A powdery blueberry juiciness with intense liquorice touches walks the line between freshness and power so well. Really a step up in quality, still tight, strong and not exactly charming at this point but there’s no faulting the winemaking here, this is direct, powerful and firm but so long with great acidity. Packed and charged, ripe and rich, yet round and balanced. I adore it.
2020
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Château Larcis DucasseSt-Émilion
Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

One of my favourite wines of the vintage, this is a wonderful example of high definition winemaking but still offering plenty of Pauillac swagger. Smells dark and slightly savoury, full of black fruit and toasted aromas. Bright and lively on the palate with clarity and precision to the berry fruit, shining and clear with juicy, mouthwatering acidity - so much energy in the glass. Chalky, graphite-laced tannins fill the mouth, giving structure and clear terroir markers with a lingering minerality on the finish. Perfectly weighted with incredible delectability and drinkability. Persistent with a long finish. Superb effort.
2020
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Château Lynch-BagesPauillac
Château Montrose, St-Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Scented and perfumed on the nose with a delicate charm. Striking, full, round, juicy and crisp - this has bite and a sense of strictness in the frame that keeps things relatively narrow at this point but comes with excellent definition of elements. Great classicism with lots of freshness. Really very seductive, the black and blue fruit, graphite and touch of smoke grow and expand with richness and intensity but staying friendly at the same time thanks to the soft sweetness and juicy acidity. I just love the interplay between being serious and generous, structured but racy, intense yet precise. Such purity, and focus. Energetic and pent up, this is raring to go to show off its beauty but just being held back. Effortless, complex and compelling. I loved it a tiny bit less than the 2019 but it’s still one of the best in 2020.
2020
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Château MontroseSt-Estèphe
Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

An irresistible wine from Palmer in 2020, sumptuous and voluptuous, open and appealing yet with all the elements so very carefully set in their place. Rich and evocative on the nose, dark and brooding with softly perfumed violet and rose aromas but it’s the texture that captivates on the palate with soft and seductive velvety tannins that immediately expand in the mouth giving power but also refinement. Mouthwatering and juicy but rich at the same time, so approachable you could drink this right now and just marvel in its nuance, structure and ease - and the oak integration is seamless. I love the liquorice bite and chalky sensation alongside vibrant black fruit though a sense of heat and menthol, liquorice freshness at the finish reminds you this is a serious wine that is built to last. This really carries the Margaux beauty and charm. A long life ahead but once opened this will disappear out of the bottle instantaneously.
2020
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Château PalmerMargaux
Château Pichon Baron, Pauillac, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Gentle and delicately aromatic but rich too, full of coffee, mocha, dark chocolate, caramel and medicinal herbs - mint and aniseed with a combination of red, blue and black berry fruits. Lovely density and weight on the palate, really very tannic but wide with an aerated effect so it doesn't feel at all heavy with a bright juiciness and extremely long length. The tannins make the first impression with a velvet texture and chalky minerality but it’s clean and the fruit has a crystalline purity that gives a sleek and direct overall impression. Generous, elegant and refined yet still not showing its best.
2020
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Château Pichon BaronPauillac
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Smooth, seductive and finely textured, this is both sleek and strict, with a savoury, crushed stone saline tang alongside tobacco, tar, ripe black cherries and soft floral scents; the Cabernet really makes its mark. Sexy and rich, less immediately charming than the 2019 was at this point - it’s more restricted and coiled but more sophisticated, elegant and refreshing - a wine you want to sit and think about while the aromas and flavours open and evolve. Lovely definition, weight and texture overall. A clear stand out.
2020
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Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de LalandePauillac
Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Juicy and lively fragrance on the nose – so perfumed and alluring. Delicate and pure on the palate, crystalline yet with such intensity. A rush of creamy tangy strawberries, herbal-edged raspberries and plum fruit lined with salty minerality gives the nuance and detail. It’s lightly framed with well integrated tannins that are fine and firm, tense just giving some tightness on the mid-palate, a sense of compactness, but then it opens again towards the finish. Cool and ethereal, this exudes charm and confidence. Extremely well made and totally seductive. I love the juiciness and sense of joyfulness, but it’s also beguiling as it deepens and grows in layers of chalk, slate, bramble fruits, perfume and florality. Another excellent wine from Rauzan with delicacy, detall and drinkability. Stunning.
2020
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Château Rauzan-SéglaMargaux
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Vivid dark purple in the glass, but a remarkable clarity too. Fragrant black cherries, plums, cassis and perfumed aromas with blueberries, balsamic touches and white pepper. Rich, round, grippy and captivating, slightly plush but also tight, where you get a soft chalky, wet stone grip with lively acidity balanced by strict and spiced liquorice-touched fruit. You feel the leanness here but it's so well defined with clarity and precision. A sleeping giant right now, definitely not yet fully expressing itself but slowly grows to a long finish. There's something so utterly seductive about this wine, it's overt, forward, upfront, confident and powerful no doubt, this will need a while before it should be opened, but it’s a shining thoroughbred. Refined and purposeful. There’s a bit of magic in this bottle.
2020
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Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan
Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2020

A pure, classy, understated VCC that manages to be elegant and delicate while hinting its potential for glamour and star power. Coiled and tightly knitted with rich and ripe black fruit flavours; currants, plums, figs and blackcurrants with a scintillating energy and grip. Effortlessly stylish yet beguiling, more of a sleeping beauty right now, concentration is clear with such detail to the fruit, well integrated tannins and thrilling acidity, but delivered sleekly. Confident winemaking on show, a wine that has been 'crafted for our children and grandchildren' says Alexandre Thienpont.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Vieux Château CertanPomerol
Château Angélus, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2020

A deep and rich nose, but so pure, clear and clean, it smells beautiful. The aromas really shine in the glass, too, with a texture that is smooth and supple, giving and generous. A powerful wine with excellent persistence from start to finish. Extremely youthful, tense and focused into one sleek line and, although you get ripe fruit – black berries, cassis, with some gorgeous bitter orange peel nuances – there’s so much minty freshness too. Concentration but no overt heaviness, discreet power. I love the chalky, milk chocolate nuances – well built and complex with a clear backbone and long ageing potential. Brilliant winemaking on show.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château AngélusSt-Émilion
Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Dark and sultry, this is heady with ripe, perfumed fruits that dominate the palate giving vertical layers of freshness, acidity and fruit concentration. It has style to it, a sleekness to the texture, classy with a lovely core of juiciness. Still a little constricted with lots of liquorice and graphite on show and a touch of saltiness towards the finish. Really well worked, mouthfilling, weighty, intense, forward and energetic. It's bigger and broader in terms of frame and flavour than the 2019 – with floral, blood orange, blueberry and bramble fruit nuances, but carries the weight well, remaining focused. I love the expression, it's dark, cool, sleek and textured. Just a gorgeous delicious wine!
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Beauséjour Duffau-LagarrosseSt-Émilion
Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Heady and expressive on the nose, seductive tones of ripe fruit and perfumed flowers. Gorgeous intensity on the palate, rich, round and ripe - gently chewy - but cool and refreshing too. This has a dynamic undercurrent with tannins that are fine but firm giving a slightly narrow frame. It’s a bit more serious than some, brooding, but clearly well made with definition. There’s a confidence here, vibrant and detailed fruit with an excellent lingering impression of the terroir in the slightly salty, chalky, graphite touch. Layered and well built with supreme classicism. A top buy. I'd like to own this one!
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Brane-CantenacMargaux
Château Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

A first-growth level wine. With aristocratic ease it conveys nimble energy and sneaky sensuality. Pencil lead, white tobacco, cassis, juicy blackberry and cherry gorgeously delineated with refined tannins providing impressive structure for long-term cellaring. The pH is the highest since 2003, but you get neither heat nor imbalance. Impressive dry extract and rather 'normal' alcohol at 13.5% evokes a positively classic feel, leading to a subtle yet super-long finish. For owner Michel Reybier, the vintage marks 20 years of 'passion at the helm'. Comes encased in a uniquely gold-coloured engraved bottle with the phrase 'C’était Cos sinon rien' - Cos or nothing else.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Cos d'EstournelSt-Estèphe
Château Duhart-Milon, Pauillac, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Suave, elegant and calmly confident. A masterclass in high-definition winemaking where all the elements are presented harmoniously with structure, freshness, complexity and a wide expansive finish. Tannins are well integrated giving support to the shining black Cabernet fruit that has strength, power and concentration but delivered underneath the savoury salinity, liquorice spice and minerality. There’s something very special about this. I love the sense of discretion, a wine that knows it has star quality but it’s not shouting about it. Pure and poised - incredibly inviting! A great buy.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Duhart-MilonPauillac
Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Almost wild on the nose, aromatic and expressive, you can tell this is a powerful, concentrated wine with dark fruits, graphite, fresh mint and medicinal herbal touches. Pure and focused, clean, lean and multifaceted, the flavours hit the palate then melt away, giving the floor to liquorice, cedar, tobacco and soft clove spices. I love the sleekness and the sense of seriousness that the 2020 has compared to the more 'look at me' 2019 at this point. The texture and depth make this wine, with vertical layers and excellent acidity. A profound wine.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Haut-BaillyPessac-Léognan
Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Concentrated and persistent. This remains quite tight overall with clear power, push and generosity of ripe blackcurrants, fragrant black cherries, blueberries, liquorice, cocoa powder, clove and wet stone. The acidity and oak keep the elements all very centred but there’s no denying this is a statuesque wine that will need time to come around. Vivid, full and well framed.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan
Château L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Smooth and silky, rich for sure, you know you're in Pomerol in a ripe vintage with just-chewy tannins but that also have a cooling, crisp edge. Lots of herbal nuances and some bitterness in the coffee, black chocolate, clove and tobacco nuances but there’s good acidity and vibrancy overall. Really well controlled and delivered, retaining a sense of punchy classicism balancing richness, freshness, delicacy and plushness.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château L'Eglise-ClinetPomerol
Château Le Pin, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Ripe, dark chocolate, floral scents, rich blackcurrants - heady but refined. Supple and racy on the palate, thrilling even, a livewire of a wine. A combination of bitter and sour, savouriness and acidity. Much more freshness than I was expecting with clarity and precision. Lean and sinewy but with a wide finish. Less sexy more suave and it knows it! Quality of the tannins is excellent and this caresses the palate comfortably. A seamless and glowing Le Pin.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Le PinPomerol
Château Léoville Las Cases, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Perfumed touches on the nose, quite high toned, blackcurrant but almost liqueur with rose petal and candy floss nuances. On the point of ripeness, still tense, not hugely expansive in the mouth or particularly weighty but juicy with a really confident energy to it - vibrant and compelling. Tannins are perfectly integrated, so fine, this has a silky overall texture with a hint of grip coming towards the mid palate. Driven and straight, not deviating from the core. Almost unfriendly, but you know this has been well made - it’s sleek, with sinewy muscles, just caged right now needing time to come around. I love the precision to the elements, there’s such a sharp attention to detail with a liquorice, slate and pencil lead tang. The flavours need coaxing a little; this is a sleeping beauty waiting to awaken, but when it does it will be delicious because of the precision. A wonderful wine that makes you really think about how it’s going to evolve.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Léoville Las CasesSt-Julien
Château Pavie, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Smooth from the get go, still tense as you’d expect with a straight backbone, but the creamy texture is lovely with a beautiful balancing acidity and suaveness overall. More calm and quiet than I was expecting, certainly not shouting but with clear depth and length to the chocolate, blackcurrant, liquorice and graphite. Detailed and nuanced, not trying too hard with energy and plumpness yet retaining a serious, savouriness that brings you back to Pavie and to the terroir with clear minerality in the lick of wet stone on the finish. Well constructed with care.
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château PavieSt-Émilion