Chablis spotlight: William Fèvre

Chablis is one of the UK and US’s most popular wines. Ask fans to name a producer from this appellation and it is likely that many will come up with the name William Fèvre. So, the Fells Annual Portfolio tasting in February provided an ideal opportunity to taste a selection of Fèvre Chablis, covering a range of quality levels and different vintages. As anticipated, there was a consistency of style here apparent from Petit Chablis to Chablis, and across Premier and Grand Cru climats.

Scroll down for Andy Howard MW’s William Fèvre tasting notes and scores

Wine critics Jasper Morris MW, in his book Inside Burgundy, introduces William Fèvre as ‘one of Chablis’ greatest domaines’ while Jamie Goode notes that the company ‘is one of the most highly regarded producers’.

There are others in the region commanding higher prices for their bottles (Raveneau and Dauvissat), as well as those who have similarly extensive vineyard holdings across the appellation (Long-Depaquit, Michel Laroche, Louis Moreau). Many others are as focussed on emphasising individual terroir characteristics (Louis Michel, Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin and Samuel Billaud to name but a few).

But few Chablis producers can match William Fèvre in terms of influence on a global stage.

Fevre Key Facts

Date founded: 1958, first vintage 1959

Ownership: Sold to Joseph Henriot in 1998

Size: 78 hectares (15.9ha Premier and 15.2ha Grand Cru)

Production: Domaine William Fèvre – 580,000 bottles

Key markets: 25% Domestic, 75% Export – Japan, USA, UK, Canada largest

Key personnel: Didier Séguier Winemaker and Director

Certification: Achieved High Environmental Value (HVE) certification in 2015 – the highest environmental status

William Fèvre was descended from a family with roots in the Chablis region and in 1959 the first Domaine wine was produced from just seven hectares. At the time, what would subsequently become the Chablis AC only totalled around 550ha.

Land was cheap and, with commendable foresight, Fèvre began to purchase top-quality vineyard plots, many of which underwent much needed replanting in the 1960’s and 70’s.

As a result, Domaine William Fèvre is not only one of the biggest domaines in Chablis, but owns a significant proportion of the best climats.

Fèvre’s holdings now extend to 78 hectares, of which 15.9ha are Premier Cru and 15.2ha Grand Cru (the total for the whole Chablis Grand Cru is 101ha). Within Grand Cru Bougros Domaine Fèvre owns over 50%, along with sizeable plots within Les Clos, Valmur, Vaudésir and Les Preuses.

William Fèvre sold the Domaine to Joseph Henriot in 1988, ushering in a new era both in terms of management and style. Didier Séguier, who had worked at Bouchard Père et Fils – Henriot’s Côte d’Ôr address – was installed as winemaker and, today, is director of the estate.

From 1998, Séguier implemented a change in style, switching from an emphasis on new oak to the use of aged wood in both fermentation and maturation. Séguier says his role is to “express the qualities of Chablis’ Kimmeridgien soil and it’s terroirs, emphasising freshness, purity, elegance and minerality”. All Domaine vineyards area harvested by hand, by a team of 180 pickers – still relatively unusual in Chablis.

The Fells tasting ranged from Petit Chablis (from purchased grapes and therefore labelled William Fèvre), Domaine Chablis, Premier Cru Fourchaume, Mont de Milieu and Vaillons, and Grand Cru Bougros, Vaudésir and Les Clos. Vintages ranged from 2018 (Domaine Chablis) to 2013 (Mont de Milieu).

What was very apparent is the concentration in all of these wines (including the impressive Petit Chablis which has benefited from some bottle age). Oak, where used, is extremely subtle. Didier Séguier has clearly got a great ability to extract the best from the individual climats.

Although these are wines that can be drunk now, they will all repay further keeping.

I am aware how well Fèvre Chablis can age – I purchased a case of 2005 Grand Cru Les Preuses many years ago. Even now this has barely shed its rapier-like acidity, crushed rock character and zesty citrus fruit.

The only (small) negative relates to pricing – Domaine William Fèvre Chablis is relatively expensive when compared to many other excellent producers such as Droin. This is partly a reflection of the global brand, and also the approach of the parent company, Henriot. 2017 Les Clos is listed by Wine Searcher as an average price of £87 per bottle, whereas the equivalent from Droin is £63 and Samuel Billaud £69 – all are very fine examples.

Despite this small reservation, Domaine Fèvre Chablis can be recommended across the board. Layered, concentrated and with great purity of flavour, this is classic, age-worthy Chablis.

See Andy Howard MW’s William Fèvre tasting notes and scores

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