Chianti Classico Annata: New releases in 2023

Abutting the Albola estate, which it was once part of, Poggerino counts 12.5 hectares within the UGA of Radda. While the wines exhibit the elegance and succulence of the zone, they have a denser, darker expression than some of their peers. The 2021 clearly demonstrates this concentration while remaining pure and fresh. It is replete with spicy wild woodland berries hemmed in by terracotta-like tannins. Textured and layered with substance and structure, it merits a few years in the cellar.

As high temperatures in mid-August shut down the ripening of Sangiovese, Marco Ricasoli reports picking approximately a week later than usual. He also introduced a sorting table to remove dried or green berries as well any pieces of stems. His resulting annata is pristine and sophisticated. Deep violet in colour and equally youthful on the nose, it exudes wild berries, black plum, and hints of wood spice. Tangy dark red cherry fills the mouth, buoyed by rambunctious acidity and framed by suede-textured tannins. Winter mint and liquorice root linger on the finish. With admirable complexity, this outperforms its category.

Cigliano di Sopra’s annata is a selection from eight small vineyards surrounding the property in San Casciano, each vinified separately. Fermentations are spontaneous with indigenous yeast and approximately 20% whole-bunch fruit. Ageing is in a combination of barrels, mostly used French oak vats. Bright, exuberant and pure, this is beautifully scented with fennel, tarragon, sage and basil. Sweet herbs continue to lace through plump currants and cherry on the palate. The texture builds with dense chalkiness, while concentrated orange peel brings lovely lift.

In the township of Radda, at altitudes high enough to see the nearest mountains, Monteraponi’s vineyards are surrounded by forest. The 2021 transmits the freshness of the site with the additional stuffing of the intensely warm end of the growing season. Lively and youthful aromas of violet and blood orange lead to juicy pink grapefruit and pomegranate palate. Fine, light tannins build with powdery texture, wrapping around the succulent cherry core. It is impossible not to be charmed by this.

Ex-jazz musician Silvio Messana makes a variety of wines of the natural ilk – but only one Chianti Classico. It blends fruit from two distinct vineyards in San Casciano – a hot site in the extreme north at just 120 metres, the other in the far south surrounded by forest at a cooler 500 metres. The aggregate is a fantastically textured, layered and appetising annata, offering a sumptuousness of black cherry and raspberry fruit without being heavy. This is broadened by verbena, mineral and woodland accents, while the citrussy acidity is well integrated, and chalky tannins give a firm, tight frame.

The Fronti family’s first vineyard, Casanova dell'Aia is just west of the town of Radda. A south-facing site at 500 metres, it was purchased in 1982 then replanted in 2014 and 2018. The 2020 is as pretty as it is precise. Distinct raspberry, pomegranate and blood orange meld with floral scents of cherry blossom. It's characterised by a generosity of flavours, a graceful structure of powdery tannins, and appetising acidity. A real citrussy tone of pink grapefruit underscores the palate, and the finish is even slightly saline.

The Istine vineyard is the highest of the estate’s three cru bottlings, reaching 550 metres. Along with the lofty altitude, the north to northwest exposure and surrounding forest make for a distinctly cool site. Nevertheless, the 2020 version is slightly fleshier and more concentrated than the sinewy 2019. It still sports piercing aromas that veer towards the floral spectrum. Rose and citrus blossoms are at the fore, then wafts of juniper and warm stone come into focus. Taut and tight with a mouthwatering tanginess of acidity underscoring intense cranberry and red cherry flavours, this is a class act.

The lowest of Istine’s three single vineyards, at 420 metres, Cavarchione is in the UGA of Gaiole. It sits on limestone-rich, stony Alberese soil. The east to southeast exposure means that it is warmed by the gentle morning sun. Not lacking in ripeness, this is positively sumptuous, yet also juicy and light on its feet. Scents of dark plum, wet earth, rosehip and violet emanate. It's more red-fruited on the palate as sour cherry takes on tamarind and bitter liquorice root. Fine-grained tactile tannins are as persistent as the zesty acidity. Absolutely moreish.

One of Chianti Classico’s most illustrious properties, Isole e Olena was established in 1956. After more than 45 years at the helm, Paolo de Marchi sold the estate last year to luxury company EPI, which also acquired Biondi Santi in 2016. This 2020 takes some time to reveal its tempting fragrance. Wafting flint, cardamom and pepper make way for early spring blossoms and red berries. It has a graceful flow along with a sumptuousness and succulence of raspberry and red plum. Fine powdery tannins frame it. A juicy follow up to the excellent 2019.

Established by Austrian Karl Egger in 2012, Tenuta di Carleone boasts winemaker Sean O’Callaghan at the helm. He applies organic and biodynamic practises in the vineyard, spontaneous fermentations, a small percentage of whole bunches, long macerations, no fining and minimal sulphur, all in the name of maximum flavour and texture. The 2020 takes time to come into focus but then unfurls with evocative floral scents of rose, violet and red currant blossoms. It achieves lightness with sneaky structure; a textural symphony of suede-like tannins and juicy acidity which races through plump nectarine and raspberry in this delectable annata.

From estate vineyards in southern reaches of Chianti Classico’s Vagliagli and Gaiole UGAs, Sangiovese is complemented by local varieties Canaiolo Nero, Ciliegiolo and Colorino. Following the hot summer, these were harvested in the last two weeks of September. The bright ruby hue is matched by equally lively aromas of medicinal herbs and roots suffused with red summer berries. Wild cherry and mint repeat on the palate. midweight and elegant, it is effortlessly balanced with crunchy acidity, light chalky tannins and digestible alcohol. Not a long ager but joyful – and so Sangiovese.

This flagship Chianti Classico from the renowned Fontodi estate has grown over the years to its current annual production of 170,000 bottles, however it has not lost its identity, deeply rooted in a sun-drenched stretch of Panzano’s Conca d’Oro. The 2020 version has all the ripe dark fruit and assertive tannins that come so neatly into balance. Grilled meat, baked earth and thyme flirt with black plum. The youthful juiciness has the energy to carry this over the next eight or so years. It finishes with its signature bitter liquorice twist.

Due to the dry end of the growing season in 2020, Diego Finocchi shortened macerations by one week for a total of 20 days to avoid extracting bitter tannins. He also co-fermented with a higher percentage of Canaiolo Nero to smooth out the wine. Mocha and nutmeg progress to black cherry and raspberry, nuanced by earthy liquorice root and baked brick. The palate is racy, linear and tightly wound. Suede-like tannins provide a slender frame to the red currant and cranberry core. Lip-smacking steely acidity is sure to stimulate the appetite!

Purchased by Frescobaldi in 2017, the Perano estate is in the northern sector of Gaiole with vineyards between 400 and 600 metres. With a hefty percentage of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, the blend is a bit of a throwback for Chianti Classico. Nevertheless, it's a solid wine. The nose is oak-led with roasted coffee and clove atop cherry and black currants. Tinged with mineral and chocolate, the palate is sophisticated, concentrated and tight, intersected by crisp acidity. It has has firm, tactile tannins and the stuffing for ageing over the next seven to eight years.

Made since 2013, Nuovo is a selection of Poggerino’s best tank of Chianti Classico. It is racked into a single 6.5hl concrete egg for malolactic fermentation and further refinement. The nose is lifted, with cherry and raspberry sharing the stage with intense violet. Very neat and promising, the long, chalky tannins stretch out leisurely while citrussy acidity adds crunch. It builds in warmth but the concentration of fruit absorbs the alcohol. Accents of orange peel progress to juniper on the finish.

With an annual production of approximately 150,000 bottles, this is Querciabella’s calling card – and an impressive one at that. It also gives an incisive panoramic shot of the Chianti Classico region as it's a blend of estate vineyards in three different subzones. Bright and fresh, the 2020 annata emerges energetically out of the glass with exuberant and pure red cherry and currants. It gains intrigue with stylish touches of mocha, tarragon and truffles. It's full and vigorous yet light on its feet thanks to radiant acidity, while well-formed tannins lend just the right amount of chew. As suave as it is characterful.

Castell’in Villa’s 50 hectares of vineyards are scattered around the southern reaches of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Despite the zone’s warmth and generous sunlight, proprietress Coralia Pignatelli crafts firm, vertical wines rather than fruit-driven examples. The 2019 exhibits greater density than the cooler 2018 vintage but offers the same signature purity and precision. Fragrances of citrus, truffles and cherry expand to the palate. Layered and textured, with chalky tannins and pierced through by nervous acidity.

Le Cinciole’s annata is a perennial overperformer and the 2019 shouldn’t be missed. Despite long ageing before release – first in cask, then concrete, and finally in bottle, it takes time to come out of its shell. Seductive truffle and forest floor slowly waft from the glass then give way to scented lavender, sage and dark red cherry. It flows effortlessly and energetically across the palate, with nervy, citrussy acidity providing the backbone. Chalky tannins are in the background making for an elegant frame.