Christie’s Hospices de Beaune tasting: 2014 – 2017 vintages
In preparation for the upcoming annual Hospices de Beaune auction, the London-based auctioneer held a special showcase of wines spanning the vintages 2014 - 2017. Andy Howard MW assess the auction's prospects in light of the global pandemic, the expectations of the 2020 vintage and reports on the tasting...
The 160th Hospices de Beaune auction takes place on Sunday 15th November. But this annual event will have a very different feel this year, as a result of the pandemic.
Despite initial thoughts that the lack of attendees at the auction (along with other COVID-related issues) might have a severe dampening effect, the overall view seems very bullish for the auction’s prospects.
See Andy Howard MW’s Hospice de Beaune tasting notes and scores
At a recent Christie’s tasting, hosted remotely by Jasper Morris MW, the message was that 2020 will be a very high-quality vintage for Burgundy. This year it is also important to note that a significant part of the proceeds will be directed to incredibly deserving medical causes.
François Poher, director of the Hospices Civils de Beaune, confirmed that the highlight of this year’s action – the barrel known as the ‘Président’s Pièce’ or ‘Pièce de Charité will be Clos de La Roche Vielles Vignes – a very special wine for this highly unusual year.
Proceeds will be directed to the French Hospital Federation (FHF) and the Committee for Social Work Management in Public Hospitals – those working as medical staff and care workers.
Morris stated that Mother Nature had bestowed a great vintage in 2020, with white wines in particular showing a wonderful combination of ripeness, health, concentration and acidity. Similar to 2019 but perhaps with even more freshness. Unusually, red grapes were generally picked ahead of the whites in order to preserve acidity and to avoid any cooked flavours.
The reds are likely to be quite tannic in their youth but as a result of the very good sanitary conditions, they will develop extremely well. For the first time ever, the harvest was completed before the end of August.
This year will be the sixth where winemaker Ludivine Griveau has been in charge. She continues to refine her sensitive, delicate, approach to the vinification of the Hospices wines, preserving freshness and purity. These will be fine wines which will age beautifully.
Since 2012 there has been strong pressure on prices at the Hospices. Apart from the weather affected 2016 vintage, volumes have also been on a steep upward trajectory. In 2018, 828 lots were sold with proceeds of €14.2m. The average barrel price (228 litres) was €16,848. In 2019, despite only 589 barrels being available due to lower yields, the sale raised €13.1m with the average price up by 30% to €21,823. This year 640 barrels are up for sale.
Successfully bidding at the auction is only part of the story though. The next stage is for the wine to be matured by specified, selected éleveurs, such as Maison Bichot or Lucien Le Moine, with decisions still to be taken on further maturation in new, or older, oak. Bottling is likely to take place 12-24 months after the auction, with the finished wine presented in the classic Hospices bottles.
There is also an option for the purchaser’s name to be printed on the label – a nice touch.
The tasting focused on three whites, and five reds, ranging from the under-rated 2014 vintage to 2017. Grand Cru wines clearly warranted their quality designation, with the 2016 Corton-Charlemagne Cuvée François de Salins and 2014 Clos de La Roche Cuvée Georges Kritter standing out.
However, the new wave being ushered in by Ludivine Griveau was emphasised by the refined Beaune Premier Cru Dames Les Hospitalières 2017 – a very fine example from Beaune, an often-overlooked appellation. There was no hint of sturdy tannins or rusticity here, and the value (in relative terms) is likely to be good.
The 160th Hospices is shaping up to be something rather different and, hopefully, memorable for positive reasons. In recent years Hospices wines have really started to deliver classic, often great, bottles of Burgundy and I hope this will be a year which gets all the support it deserves. Bewitching wines, combined with a wonderful cause – what more could one want.
See Andy Howard MW’s Hospice de Beaune 2020 tasting notes and scores
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Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée de Bahezre de Lanlay, Meursault, 1er Cru Les Charmes, Burgundy, France, 2017
With plenty of upfront buttery, toasty, notes this Meursault Premier Cru amply lives up to its Charmes name. The vines are on both the upper and lower slopes, with the richer soils of the latter adding weight and opulent stone-fruit characters. The weight is balanced with some fine, 2017, acidity and some intriguing spicy notes to finish. The cuvée is named after Louis de Bahèzre de Lanlay, a telegraph line inspector who bequeathed his fortune to the Hospices in 1884.
2017
Hospices de BeauneMeursault
Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Baudot, Meursault, 1er Cru Genevrières, Burgundy, France, 2016
This Genevrières shows a lot more restraint than the 2017 Charmes, despite the deeper yellow hue in the glass. A blend from both the upper and lower parts of the Cru, which avoided the ravages of the frost in 2016. An elegant Meursault which is less showy on the nose, and retains quite prominent acidity with an attractive spicy finish and good length. Relatively early drinking.
2016
Hospices de BeauneMeursault
Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée François de Salins, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2016
A wonderful Corton-Charlemagne, the vines for this are situated in the prime Le Charlemagne area. 58% of the vines were planted in 1944, 27% in 1981 and the rest from 1998. There is a flash of green-gold in the glass, with distinctly mineral, flinty notes on both the nose and palate. Wood is still evident here but in balance, with a luscious, refreshing lime-zest character to keep everything fresh. Plenty of life ahead.
2016
Hospices de BeauneCorton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Dames Hospitalieres, Beaune, 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017
Traditionally this cuvée opens the sale and can be well priced. Named after the nurses who tended the sick from 1443, this Premier Cru is made from vines situated in the renowned sites of Les Bressandes, La Mignotte and Les Teurons. Elegant and precise, there is no evidence of over-extraction here, just refreshing, pure red berry fruit and fine-grained tannins. Still youthful, this will improve with another couple of years in bottle.
2017
Hospices de BeauneBeaune
Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Jehan de Massol, Volnay, 1er Cru Santenots, Burgundy, France, 2015
Jehan de Massol was a magistrate who bequeathed his art collection in 1669 - saving the Hospices from ruin. From vines in Les Plures and Santenots, 51% average 51 years of age, with the remainder over 33 years old. Almost Grand Cru like in concentration, there is a great deal of power here. Dark cherry and berry fruits, with firm tannins yet restrained oak. Impressive, showy and a wine in no rush to be drunk. A very powerful Volnay Santenots.
2015
Hospices de BeauneVolnay
Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Billardet, Pommard, Burgundy, France, 2015
Surprisingly flighted after the Volnay Premier Cru, this village Pommard still showed well. 87% of the vines were planted in 1988 or before, and date back to 1954. 35% of the cuvée comes from Premier Cru Les Arvelets. Touch of smoke on the nose with violet hints, this is dark and intense in the glass, with spicy red and black fruit on the palate. Muscular, as expected with Pommard, but doesn't have the concentration of the Volnay. Given the village wine designation, this is an impressive effort though.
2015
Hospices de BeaunePommard
Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Charlotte Dumay, Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2014
Made up from Corton-Renardes (63%) and a mix of 24 other sectors on the Corton hill, this is a very fine Corton Grand Cru. Charlotte Dumay gave vineyards to the Hospices in 1534, and this is traditionally one of the Hospice's longest living cuvées. Lacks a little in concentration but makes up for this with freshness and elegance. Cool in the mouth, with a blueberry and dusky, dark, fruit character on both the nose and palate. Corton can often be rugged but this is smooth and refined. A very good 2014.
2014
Hospices de BeauneCorton Grand Cru
Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Georges Kritter, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2014
A wonderful example of Clos de la Roche, and a fine advert for the undersung 2014 vintage. There is great depth here, with a regal, plush texture on the palate. Loaded with dark cherry fruit, there's plenty of concentration here allied to supple, restrained oak and fine, ripe tannins. Some dark truffle hints are starting to emerge. Drinking beautifully now this will continue to improve and will drink well for at least a decade. Although it may not have the weight and density of the very finest years, this more than makes up for it with elegance and class.
2014
Hospices de BeauneClos de la Roche Grand Cru
