Christie’s Hospices de Beaune tasting: 2014 – 2017 vintages

The 160th Hospices de Beaune auction takes place on Sunday 15th November. But this annual event will have a very different feel this year, as a result of the pandemic.

Despite initial thoughts that the lack of attendees at the auction (along with other COVID-related issues) might have a severe dampening effect, the overall view seems very bullish for the auction’s prospects.

See Andy Howard MW’s Hospice de Beaune tasting notes and scores

At a recent Christie’s tasting, hosted remotely by Jasper Morris MW, the message was that 2020 will be a very high-quality vintage for Burgundy. This year it is also important to note that a significant part of the proceeds will be directed to incredibly deserving medical causes.

François Poher, director of the Hospices Civils de Beaune, confirmed that the highlight of this year’s action – the barrel known as the ‘Président’s Pièce’ or ‘Pièce de Charité will be Clos de La Roche Vielles Vignes – a very special wine for this highly unusual year.

Proceeds will be directed to the French Hospital Federation (FHF) and the Committee for Social Work Management in Public Hospitals – those working as medical staff and care workers.

Morris stated that Mother Nature had bestowed a great vintage in 2020, with white wines in particular showing a wonderful combination of ripeness, health, concentration and acidity. Similar to 2019 but perhaps with even more freshness. Unusually, red grapes were generally picked ahead of the whites in order to preserve acidity and to avoid any cooked flavours.

The reds are likely to be quite tannic in their youth but as a result of the very good sanitary conditions, they will develop extremely well. For the first time ever, the harvest was completed before the end of August.

This year will be the sixth where winemaker Ludivine Griveau has been in charge. She continues to refine her sensitive, delicate, approach to the vinification of the Hospices wines, preserving freshness and purity. These will be fine wines which will age beautifully.

Since 2012 there has been strong pressure on prices at the Hospices. Apart from the weather affected 2016 vintage, volumes have also been on a steep upward trajectory. In 2018, 828 lots were sold with proceeds of €14.2m. The average barrel price (228 litres) was €16,848. In 2019, despite only 589 barrels being available due to lower yields, the sale raised €13.1m with the average price up by 30% to €21,823. This year 640 barrels are up for sale.

Successfully bidding at the auction is only part of the story though. The next stage is for the wine to be matured by specified, selected éleveurs, such as Maison Bichot or Lucien Le Moine, with decisions still to be taken on further maturation in new, or older, oak. Bottling is likely to take place 12-24 months after the auction, with the finished wine presented in the classic Hospices bottles.

There is also an option for the purchaser’s name to be printed on the label – a nice touch.

The tasting focused on three whites, and five reds, ranging from the under-rated 2014 vintage to 2017. Grand Cru wines clearly warranted their quality designation, with the 2016 Corton-Charlemagne Cuvée François de Salins and 2014 Clos de La Roche Cuvée Georges Kritter standing out.

However, the new wave being ushered in by Ludivine Griveau was emphasised by the refined Beaune Premier Cru Dames Les Hospitalières 2017 – a very fine example from Beaune, an often-overlooked appellation. There was no hint of sturdy tannins or rusticity here, and the value (in relative terms) is likely to be good.

The 160th Hospices is shaping up to be something rather different and, hopefully, memorable for positive reasons. In recent years Hospices wines have really started to deliver classic, often great, bottles of Burgundy and I hope this will be a year which gets all the support it deserves. Bewitching wines, combined with a wonderful cause – what more could one want.

See Andy Howard MW’s Hospice de Beaune 2020 tasting notes and scores

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