Cortese: A ‘new’ organic estate to watch in Sicily
Read a profile of Cortese, a long-running organic wine growing estate in southern Sicily that has been given a new lease of life under fresh ownership, and see tasting notes on the first wines of its new era.
Cortese in Sicily’s southern Vittoria region is owned by Stefano Girelli, who also runs nearby organic winery Santa Tresa.
Scroll down to see the tasting notes
Girelli is a big believer in organics, but he said that his first foray into organic farming methods caused consternation in the community.
‘Sicily is the perfect place to grow organic wines at a high quality level, though when we started to grow organically, everyone said, “Why are you doing that? Are you crazy?”
How the new-look Cortese started
’We bought Santa Tresa in 2001 and there was a little estate next door where a lady called Giovanna Cortese had always been growing organic grapes. She was another one who was as crazy as we were…’
Girelli’s team took over the Cortese estate in 2016, initially planning to use its grapes to increase production for Santa Tresa.
‘But the first harvest quickly showed us that the grapes were totally different,’ said Girelli.
‘Even though we are only 8km away from Santa Tresa, the soil condition and the microclimate were different and we also found an incredible natural selection of clones – a Nero d’Avola that’s different, a Frappato, a very unique Grillo and Cataratto – so this led us to think about how we could tell a different story about Sicily.’
The result is two ranges of wine. Top-end La Selezione is made from the estate’s oldest vines and includes the white Vanedda, a field blend of Cataratto and Grillo, fermented on their skins in old 30-litre Slavonian oak barrels to give the wine more structure.
Sabuci is a Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico, made from 70% Nero d’Avola fermented in open-top barriques and 30% Frapatto fermented in amphora.
While Senia is a 100% Nero d’Avola, again fermented on skins in open-top barriques, using a traditional technique known as follatura of pushing down the skins by hand.
The ‘everyday’ second label Nostru, focuses on characterful indigenous Sicilian varieties, using grapes bought from growers in northwest Sicily. The range includes a red single-varietal Nero Mascalese and white Cataratto Lucido and Carricante.
‘Sicilian whites these days have good concentration, good character and very strong personality. If you pick at the right time, you retain the acidity, which makes all the difference. It gives you the minerality, and really helps to keep the freshness.
‘I truly think that in the future Sicily will deliver phenomenal white wines, and the potential is enormous,’ added Girelli.
Cortese wine reviews
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Cortese, La Selezione Senia, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2016
92
This rich organic red is fermented on skins in open-top barriques using a traditional technique known as follatura, pushing down the skins by hand. There's a savoury, balsamic edge to the brambly black fruit aromas. Extended skin contact gives a textured palate, making this perfect for pairing with red meat. Fresh acidity balances the plum, blackberry and cherry fruit. An original interpretation of Sicily's signature grape.
2016
CorteseTerre Siciliane
Cortese, La Selezione Vanedda Bianco, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2016
91
A surprising and serious style from Sicily that's reminiscent of a southern Chablis. It's made from an organic field blend of Catarratto and Grillo, co-fermented on their skins in old 30-litre Slavonian oak botti to add structure and phenolics. Fresh, tropical-tinged aromas leap from the glass, and there's a beautiful richness on the palate, which boasts depth and structure underpinned by clean, crisp acidity and a touch of spice.
2016
CorteseTerre Siciliane
Cortese, La Selezione Sabuci, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Classico, Sicily, Italy, 2016
91
An original and accomplished organic blend of 70% Nero d’Avola fermented in open-top barriques and 30% Frapatto fermented in amphora, followed by extended skin contact for a year. This has fruits-of-the-forest aromas with a kiss of vanilla and spice, leading to an elegant and complex palate with silky black fruits and fine-grained tannins. The earthiness of the Nero d'Avola is complemented by the freshness of Frappato. Less than 6,000 bottles made.
2016
CorteseCerasuolo di Vittoria
Cortese, Nostru Cataratto Lucido, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2017
90
The low-yielding Catarratto Lucido grape had almost disappeared from Sicily, but producers such as Cortese prefer the more concentrated, fresh style it lends to wines. This organic version benefits from skin maceration and extended lees stirring. Vibrant fruity aromatics of banana, pineapple and Russet apple lead to a bone-dry palate with mouthwatering acidity and a surprising fleshiness thanks to the skin contact. Delicious salinity on the finish.
2017
CorteseTerre Siciliane
Cortese, Nostru Carricante, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2017
89
Usually seen in Etna Bianco blends, Carricante takes a starring role in this organic white, with pretty aromatics of peach, apricot, stewed apple, citrus and blossom. There's a brisk acidity on the palate, with fresh notes of green apple and yellow citrus. A clean and mineral style, made with precision.
2017
CorteseTerre Siciliane
Cortese, Nostru Nerello Mascalese, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy, 2017
89
This has more depth of colour and aroma than you usually find with Nerello Mascalese. Light oak gives notes of spice and leather on the nose and palate, alongside black and red cherry fruit. From organic grapes, this is a well made and very drinkable wine, with depth and freshness - great with pasta ragu.
2017
CorteseTerre Siciliane
