decanter cellar Merlot
Merlot being sorted in Pomerol
(Image credit: Bloomberg Creative Photos/Getty Images)

All together now, how does it go?

‘I am NOT drinking any –ing Merlot!’

Miles Raymond’s infamously snobbish cry of rage in Sideways reverberated in the physical world as much as the celluloid one.

After it was uttered across cinemas in the US in 2004, the line is credited with causing a 2% drop in sales of Merlot in the western United States, and a 16% rise in sales of Pinot Noir.

The trend was subsequently reported in other markets such as the UK too.

The mythology of the ‘Sideways Effect’ is considerably exaggerated but it’s not entirely untrue. If you ever stop and wonder how and why there’s so much unimpressive Pinot being flogged at bargain basement prices (particularly in the US), what you’re seeing is the (viti)cultural ripple caused by the film.

And the double irony is that what caused Miles to be such a Merlot-hater was (his ex-wife, but also) because it was a grape that had become mainstream thanks to another moment that entered the cultural zeitgeist – 60 Minutes’ infamous 1991 segment on the ‘French paradox’.

Although the study behind the report is now treated with considerable scepticism, at the time it caused a boom in wine sales in the US.

And Merlot, being ripe and plummy and not too angular as varieties go, was the perfect grape to introduce a generation of new drinkers to wine.

Which obviously meant it began to attract scorn from aesthetes…

The origins of Merlot

Merlot appears in the historical record in the late 18th century, with an official in Libourne recording a wine made from ‘Merlau’.

As with many grapes, there’s some debate around the origins of its name, though a plausible theory is that it’s named after the common blackbird – ‘merle’ in French but ‘merlau’ in the local Gascon.

Research in the 1990s would show that Merlot is descended from the line of Cabernet Franc, making it a sibling to Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Carmenere.

Its similarity to Carmenere famously led to Chile labelling a lot of wine as Merlot until the mistake was later rectified.

Merlot’s second parent remained a mystery until a chance discovery of a variety that had fallen into disuse in western France proved to be the missing link – Magdeleine Noire des Charentes.

Worldwide appeal

Merlot’s origins and rise to fame, like that of its half-sibling, Cabernet Sauvignon, is firmly Bordelais.

It’s impossible to imagine the Bordeaux Blend without Merlot and given the influence of Bordeaux on wine around the world, Merlot has become a thoroughly global variety found from the Andes to Hawkes Bay, and the Pomerol plateau to the shores of the Cape.

It thrives in cooler soils – which is why it’s so dominant on the clay of Bordeaux’s right bank – ripens early and can crop abundantly.

Its thin skins means it has less (though not negligible) colour and tannins than its Cabernet sibling and parent, making for fruity and approachable wines.

Like Cabernet it can turn its hand to inexpensive, everyday wines as well as taking its place in some of the world’s most expensive and sought-after labels.

Don’t count it out

But Merlot isn’t a variety that often has people swooning over it.

Indeed, it’s often seen as a bit of wallflower among red varieties. It’s not grand like Cabernet Sauvignon, not peppery like Syrah, not as romantic as Pinot Noir.

Merlot is too often seen as either cheap and simple (for people who ‘don’t really like wine’) or as a simple blending component.

But! Ignore Merlot at your peril. It may not be the flashiest variety but you can miss it when it’s not there.

Hard hit by the frosts in 2021, one of the criticisms of Bordeaux in that vintage was the lack of middle palate body and fruit – normally provided by Merlot. And there’s often a lot more Merlot in some of these famous left bank blends than one realises.

The blend of Château Haut-Brion 2015 for example (listed below) is 50% Merlot.

Furthermore, when handled by real masters, Merlot – alone – can unfurl itself in true splendour with freshness, finesse, depth and complexity; as the likes of Petrus and Masseto aptly demonstrate.

However, even those that do not come from such exalted estates would still grace any cellar or collection they find themselves in.

Listed below is a small selection of Merlot-based wines – mono-varietal or at least 50% of a blend – rated 95-points or more by Decanter between January and December 2025.


Click here to see more than 5,000 reviews of Merlot by Decanter


Decanter Cellar: 20 top-rated Merlot


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Château Lafleur, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2015

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Wonderfully lifted and tropical on the nose, laden with pineapple, tinned peaches, wild strawberries and soft, wild herbs. Insanely complex. Faultless in the mouth with...

2015

BordeauxFrance

Château LafleurPomerol

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Château Pavie, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2016

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A monumental Pavie. Incredible aromatic intensity, depth and energy; alive, bright and beautifully poised. Packed with power, precision and tension, yet silky smooth, sharp and...

2016

BordeauxFrance

Château PavieSt-Émilion

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Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2022

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An explosion of aromatics - vibrant, perfumed, and alive. Dried herbs, violets, and cherries lead the nose, more floral than fruity at this stage, with...

2022

BordeauxFrance

PetrusPomerol

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Château Canon, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2016

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The sheer iodine freshness and gorgeous fruit succulence go hand in glove with a tannic frame that has softened since I had tried this vintage...

2016

BordeauxFrance

Château CanonSt-Émilion

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La Jota, W.S. Keyes Vineyard Merlot, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain, California, USA, 2022

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This Merlot hails from the same block in the W.S. Keyes Vineyard that Tom Rinaldi once sourced for Duckhorn Merlot in the early days. Winemaker...

2022

CaliforniaUSA

La JotaNapa Valley

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Masseto, Toscana, Tuscany, Italy, 2022

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The summer was so arid in 2022 that the vines shut down and ripening was halted until mid-August rains arrived. This helped to preserve acidity...

2022

TuscanyItaly

MassetoToscana

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Prophet & Poet, Mourning Cloak Proprietary Red Blend, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley, California, USA, 2021

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A meticulously crafted wine sourced from Jackson Family Wines’ Taylor Peak vineyard, this proprietary blend is composed of 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and small...

2021

CaliforniaUSA

Prophet & PoetSonoma County

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Robert Foley Vineyards, Merlot, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2018

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The nose is perfumed and alluring, with dark fruit, dark chocolate, liquorice, and scorched herbs. On the palate, it is fabulously rich and full-bodied, with...

2018

CaliforniaUSA

Robert Foley VineyardsNapa Valley

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Château Cheval Blanc, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2005

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Cheval Blanc often needs twenty or more years to show the totally intoxicating Cabernet Franc perfume. A powerful wine encased in a velvet glove of...

2005

BordeauxFrance

Château Cheval BlancSt-Émilion

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Château L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2024

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Dark fruit, ripe blackcurrants and plums, black cherries, sweetly floral, raspberry and cherry. Controlled and calm, this has a crushed velvet texture, almost thick in...

2024

BordeauxFrance

Château L'Eglise-ClinetPomerol

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Clos Fourtet, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2009

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A gorgeous wine mirroring the superb vintage, both charming and powerful revealing opulence while maintaining what owner Mattheiu Cuvelier calls the 'ethereal finesse' of the...

2009

BordeauxFrance

Clos FourtetSt-Émilion

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Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2015

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Looser-knit and slightly more open than La Mission Haut-Brion. Feels softer. Dark fruit, tobacco, smoke and a touch of volatility. On the palate there is...

2015

BordeauxFrance

Château Haut-BrionPessac-Léognan

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Château Laroque, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2022

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A pure and focussed nose full of ripe but cool black fruit with soft hints of violets and vanilla. This delighted during Primeurs and it's...

2022

BordeauxFrance

Château LaroqueSt-Émilion

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Petrolo, Galatrona, Valdarno di Sopra, Tuscany, Italy, 2018

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A 100% Merlot cuvée that totally delivers. This is seductive with tons of finesse and layers of liquorice and olive paste with grip and smoked...

2018

TuscanyItaly

PetroloValdarno di Sopra

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Tua Rita, Redigaffi, Toscana, Tuscany, Italy, 2022

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In 2022, there were six separate harvests for Redigaffi due to rain and the need for strict selection in such a hot year. Textured and...

2022

TuscanyItaly

Tua RitaToscana

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Castello di Fonterutoli, Siepi, Toscana, Tuscany, Italy, 2023

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This single-vineyard blend of Sangiovese and Merlot offers bold, plummy black fruit scents with some menthol, spice, currants and chocolate. In the mouth it's poised,...

2023

TuscanyItaly

Castello di FonterutoliToscana

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Cathiard Vineyard, Thallo, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2022

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The Thallo is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, primarily sourced from younger vines on the valley floor in front of the...

2022

CaliforniaUSA

Cathiard VineyardNapa Valley

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Vérité, La Muse, Sonoma County, California, USA, 2022

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Black pepper spice, milk chocolate and ripe blackcurrants. Less ripe and heavy on the palate than the nose suggests, more streamlined with detail to the...

2022

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VéritéSonoma County

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Barboursville Vineyards, Octagon, Monticello AVA, Virginia, USA, 2017

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The 2017 Octagon is a testament to legendary winemaker Luca Paschina and the Barboursville team. Octagon is a signature wine crafted only in vintages of...

2017

VirginiaUSA

Barboursville VineyardsMonticello AVA

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Jett, Skysill Merlot, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, USA, 2022

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From the Skysill Vineyard, named by Jett's lead winemaker Gianna Ghilarducci, in the Mill Creek District, in the eastern reaches of Walla Walla Valley on...

2022

WashingtonUSA

JettColumbia Valley

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Matthews, Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA, 2022

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In 100% new oak, the oak integration really comes at 20 months. This wine still shows purity, with blue fruits and violets, and has great...

2022

WashingtonUSA

MatthewsColumbia Valley

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Otronia, 45 Rugientes Merlot, Chubut, Patagonia, Argentina, 2022

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When I first tasted the wines from Otronia, this Merlot surprised me with its energy and definition, defying assumptions about both the region and the...

2022

PatagoniaArgentina

OtroniaChubut

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Rupert Millar
Assistant Editor