My dream dozen: Italian whites

See Tom Hyland's 12 all-time favourite dry white wines from across Italy, an eclectic collection offering abundant regional character and cellaring potential. Available exclusively to Decanter Premium members.

Tom Hyland’s top 12 Italian whites

Scroll down to see the ratings and tasting notes, available exclusively for Premium members

For decades Italy’s white wines offered little in terms of structure or complexity; their role was that of an aperitif or as a partner with lighter cuisine. Thankfully, over the past 15 to 20 years, dedicated vintners from Alto Adige to Campania and several regions in between have been crafting stellar whites that have broadened the focus of Italian viticulture.

According to Roberto Giuliani, a leading Italian wine journalist, this shift started with a change of mindset by producers. ‘In recent years many white wines capable of ageing have been created – until recently, it was only red wines that enjoyed this quality. Now wine lovers are changing their perceptions and starting to buy not only approachable whites for early drinking, but also whites to cellar and drink with some age,’ he says.

These personal favourites illustrate this upward trajectory in quality and complexity, spanning a range of varieties, regions and price points.

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More about the producers and their wines

Vigne Marina Coppi

Fausto, Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont

First vintage 2007
Variety 100% Timorasso
Average annual production 6,500 bottles

‘Why are you journalists so interested in a wine with such limited production?’ owner and winemaker Francesco Bellocchio asked during my recent visit to his property. Given the quality and unique nature of his Timorasso, he must have known the answer, as it is a white that is much greater than the sum of its parts.

highlight dynamic floral notes. The texture is especially notable, as this is a palate-filling white.

Tom Hyland is a Chicago-based author and educator specialising in Italian wines.