Expert’s Choice: Montagne St-Emilion

Named after one of the four daughters of Benjamin and Ariane de Rothschild. Blending 91% Merlot with Cabernet Franc, aged predominantly in amphora, its vibrant, fresh nose shows the subtlest hint of part-ageing in barrels (one third in large oak foudres, 6% in stainless steel tank). Elegance and purity combine with an intriguing lift. Purity and drive, concentration with impeccable overall balance. A fine example of Montagne that will drink very well for years to come.

A new cuvée, fermented in concrete tanks before maturion for 11 months in terracotta amphora. Clearly very modern in their approach (sporting an amphora design on the label) this more than delivers in the glass. Fresh, juicy, vibrant, leafy 100% Cabernet Franc fruit not overwhelmed by wood. Hints of spice on the finish with a long, lingering flavour. A delicious effort which delivers a very different style.

A family estate run by vigneron Franck Despagne, a champion of the Montagne terroir. Merlot-dominant blend with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in barrels for 12 months. Forward plum, blackberry and dark-cherry nose. Full, concentrated palate with a fine combination of fruit ripeness, acidity and spice oak-derived spice notes. Needs a year (or two) to fully meld but will be a great example over the next five plus years.

New producer Patrick Garrity arrived from California in 2021, setting up this small estate of 1.7ha, with 50-year-old vines. Fermentation in steel tanks and large oak barrels (10%) before ageing in a mix of new, first- & second-use 300L/350L barrels with 10% in amphora. Very nicely put together with concentrated dark fruit on the palate, spice notes, a hint of wood and ripe tannins adding a glossy feel on the finish. A great effort in only the estate's second vintage. One to watch.

The estate is a single-block to the west of Montagne, with two valleys linked by a plateau. 32ha of vines, massal selection since 2013. Aged for two years, 18 months of which in second-use French oak barrels. Pungent aromas of dark cherry and plum, subtle oak evident. Juicy and fleshy palate with soft tannin, bright acidity and medium weight. Very good balance between the ripeness of the vintage and freshness to finish. Certified biodynamic since 2013.

Originally created in 1924, this 5.5ha estate was purchased by Astrid and Dorian Arbo in 2015. 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, aged for 12 months half in new oak, half second-use barrels. Plenty of appeal now with juicy, ripe, dark fruit on the nose. Super-clean, fresh and lively on the palate with elegant tannins and subtle oak. Good chew to the tannins suggests this will continue to drink well for several years. A fine result in this difficult vintage.

Owned for a century by the family Guimberteau-Foray, with Charles Foray now in charge. Vinified in stainless steel, 12 months' ageing in oak barrels of mixed ages, predominantly French. A complex wine with interplay of vibrant red and black fruit on the nose, with alluring floral notes. Attractive, juicy and clean, this shows the variability of 2020 with less concentration and fleshiness compared to 2019. But there is still lots to like here. Organic.

The estate is owned and run by Bruno Marchand – long-serving president of the Montagne AP – and his wife Sarah. From 40-year-old vines, 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged traditionally in oak barrels for about 12 months. Refined and understated, oak very much in the background. Pure and precise on the nose, dark fruits mingling with hints of spice. Fleshy and juicy with fruit sweetness, no harsh edges. A fine effort, ready now but no hurry to drink. Also excellent is the Château Haut-Bonneau 2023 (90pts).

This 2.7ha estate lies on clay-gravel soil interspersed with iron chips. Bright, appealing nose with vibrant red berry fruits and clove, nutmeg and cinnamon spice notes. Soft, juicy and fleshy with lovely ripeness evident, purity of fruit and no harsh edges. The iron in the vineyard shows through with a firmness to the tannins. A fine, elegant 2022, 100% Merlot, highlighting the quality of the vintage and ready to enjoy now. Organic.

<p>Owned for a century by the family Guimberteau-Foray, with Charles Foray now in charge. Vinified in steel, 12 months ageing in barrel with a blend of new and old oak, predominantly French. A complex wine with interplay of vibrant red/black fruit on the nose together with alluring floral notes. Attractive, juicy and clean palate, this shows the variability of 2020 with less concentration and fleshiness compared to 2019. But there is still lots to like here.</p>

A family estate of 15ha, with Julien Richard the third generation at this property. Average vine age 45 years. Destemmed fruit fermented in concrete and steel vats, and part of the blend aged in 500L barrels for 12 months. Heft and concentration on the palate with fresh acidity and tannic structure keeping everything in very good balance. More of a 'new world' style: lots to enjoy here. Concentrated red and black cherry and plum notes. Would be great with roast duck or beef.

The property, run by Michel Coudroy, dates back to the 16th century, and the vineyard site covers 50ha. A blend of 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, lightly oaked and aged for six months in barrel. Good depth of colour with vibrant black and red fruit on the nose, with a hint of sandalwood and leather. Attractive, forward and plump, lots to enjoy from the outset. A wine with a combination of ripeness, freshness and structure that will appeal to many.

Part of the Benjamin de Rothschild group, this wine from the 32ha Montagne St-Emilion part of the estate is named after three Lebanese cypress trees. Lovely aromatic purity, floral notes with fresh red fruits, subtle oak. Not at all showy, this prioritises elegance over power and extract, and delivers a lovely glass of Montagne as a result. Not the most concentrated perhaps, but another great effort in this difficult vintage. A blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Appealing, complex nose with touches of spice and leafy notes combining with the vibrant red and black fruit characters. Soft and generous in the mouth, along with bright acidity to balance the warming ripeness of fruit. Will benefit from a further six to 12 months in the bottle. A fresh, complex and vibrant example of Montagne from this 15ha estate.

The estate has belonged to the Teyssier family since 1920 and covers 25.5ha on clay-limestone soils; now fifth-generation, with Derenoncourt acting as consultants. 70% aged in French oak barrels for 10-14 months with 30% in stainless steel tanks. A 'classic' feel, no lashings of new oak but plenty of purity of dark berry fruit on the nose. Elegant, smooth tannins, very subtle oak background. A classy example with much to commend.

Pierre-Emmanuel Janoueix took over family estate in 2000. The estate totals 17ha with 12.5ha planted to vines, average age 50 years. Marl soil with clay-silty texture. Fermented in concrete vats, aged 12 months in barrels up to three years old. Has a definite Right Bank feel to it, with generosity of fruit in evidence. Full and fleshy, with dark fruit, ripe tannin and subtle oak making this a very enjoyable Montange for now, and the next two to three years.

Vignobles Rambeaud owns this estate, planted on the clay-limestone plateau. Youthfully fresh and appealing nose, fleshy and bright palate with red cherry and redcurrant notes and a touch of leafiness. Good crunch to the juicy fruit: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, aged 70% in oak barriques and 30% in stainless steel. Not a blockbuster but a wine with finesse and elegance, allied to purity of flavour, oak a subtle backnote adding a little to the structure.