Expert’s Choice: Premium McLaren Vale Grenache
Ancient vines and a dizzying diversity of soil types are powering a Grenache renaissance in McLaren Vale, the picturesque region in southern Australia, where single-vineyard expressions are on the rise.
Grenache, in the hands of McLaren Vale’s most astute producers, can be the most supple and beguiling of grape varieties. It all depends on the age of the vines and the complexity of the vineyard sites – and McLaren Vale has both in abundance.
The best Grenache vineyards, mostly dry-grown bush vines up to 120 years old, have arguably become Australia’s take on grand cru: rare, idiosyncratic and expressive vines on exemplary sites. And the results from the 67 samples submitted to Decanter by 30 invited producers for this elite regional tasting did not disappoint. The top wines were extraordinary.
Scroll down to see notes and scores for the top 30 McLaren Vale Grenache wines
The secret is in the soils. Flanked by the Mount Lofty Ranges and the Gulf St Vincent, this coastal region’s geology is hugely complex, a fact underlined by the map of its geology, first produced in 2008 (see mclarenvalewine.au). Indeed, the McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Tourism Association states that ‘more than 40 unique geologies are present’ – placing it among the world’s most geologically diverse wine regions – although the 7,375ha of vineyards are planted on only about half of that number. Among the wide range of soil types are some more than 500 million years old.
Single-site surge
McLaren Vale’s geological complexity, and the resulting diversity in wine flavour profiles, has prompted a surge in the number of single-site Grenaches produced in recent years. It has also triggered a tussle among boutique producers to procure the best fruit – especially that from two renowned family-owned sites: the Smart vineyard in Clarendon, first planted in 1922, and the Trott vineyard in Blewitt Springs, which dates back to 1952. Between them, they boast 10 single-site wines from eight different producers.
‘Different sites produce wines of significant difference, and we strive to capture that in the glass,’ says Aphelion owner-winemaker Rob Mack, who produces six varietal Grenache wines from across the region, as well as Grenache-led red blends and a Grenache Blanc.
The single-vineyard focus began with d’Arenberg’s Chester Osborn, who released three single-vineyard Grenache wines from the 2002 vintage, to demonstrate the effect that different McLaren Vale soil types have on vines and the resulting wine personalities.
Common ground
Many producers have expanded on that idea, including Bondar, SC Pannell and Willunga 100. In Thistledown’s seven pure-Grenache wines, winemaker Giles Cooke MW focuses on acidity, light-bodied fruit and sculptured palate texture.
‘I want to find common ground between Grenache’s fruit personality and mineral influence that speaks of site more than winemaking artifice,’ he says. ‘The trick is to be generous without sacrificing terroir definition.’
A raft of winemakers are finding their own answers to this tricky equation, dialling down alcohol and easing away from overt oak to allow the McLaren Vale Grenache fruit to shine.
Grenache can ride a perilous journey. An early-budding variety, it can be vulnerable to spring frosts and is also prone to coulure, which causes irregular flowering and fruit set, and can reduce yields. In 2023, cool, wet, windy and cloudy weather adversely affected fruit set across the region.
Rhône-style blends emerging
Another exciting chapter of McLaren Vale’s Grenache story is just emerging – in distinctive red blends. Wineries such as Chalk Hill, Hither & Yon and Samuel’s Gorge are removing the Shiraz, and sometimes also the Mataro (aka Mourvèdre) from the southern Rhône-style SGM and GSM blends.
This gives Grenache more space to shine as the dominant flavour, with Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional and Graciano stepping in to provide an inspired new take on a traditional style.
But that’s all another story. For now, if you haven’t already, it’s time to discover premium McLaren Vale Grenache.
David Sly’s top 30 McLaren Vale Grenache wines
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Bekkers, Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2021
Wild berries, stalky brambles, liquorice and an earthy richness, the heady flavours swirling like a tempest. With fruit sourced from four sites across McLaren Vale,...
2021
BekkersMcLaren Vale
Aphelion, Rapture Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Rich and luscious nose, the body powerful but considered. From the Wait and Brini vineyards, the brooding, fleshy dark fruit is laced with spice and...
2022
AphelionMcLaren Vale
Gemtree, Small Batch SBO Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Biodynamic fruit tingles with vitality; a redcurrant zing through the front palate like a jolt of electricity ahead of a swirl of raspberry, plum and...
2022
GemtreeMcLaren Vale
Hither & Yon, Leask Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2020
Much is suggested on a vivacious nose, but beneath soft and cuddly red-fruited flavours, lean and powerful dark fruit muscle flexes in the mid-palate. A...
2020
Hither & YonMcLaren Vale
Ministry Of Clouds, Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Bernice Ong and Julian Forwood founded Ministry of Clouds in 2012, crafting wines with gastronomy in mind. Grapes were handpicked from four old bush-vine vineyards...
2022
Ministry Of CloudsMcLaren Vale
Thistledown, This Charming Man Single Vineyard Grenache, Clarendon, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
One of several small-batch Grenaches sourced from the Smart vineyard, this nimble-bodied wine changes gears dramatically, from light-fruited seduction to a dark-fruited wrestle. Its stern...
2022
ThistledownMcLaren Vale
Yangarra, High Sands Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2020
A few extra years in bottle has only improved this elite Grenache. Its vivacious freshness and lean, muscular fruit power are now beautifully balanced through...
2020
YangarraMcLaren Vale
Aphelion, Confluence Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Founded in 2014 by Rob and Louise Mack, Aphelion specialises in Grenache, making a range of six straight-Grenache wines in varying styles. For Confluence, the...
2022
AphelionMcLaren Vale
Bondar, Higher Springs Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
From a dry-grown site planted in 1952, this light-bodied wine displays fine features and coy beauty: a model of poise but purpose. It's enticing red...
2022
BondarMcLaren Vale
Dandelion Vineyards, Faraway Tree of McLaren Vale Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Robust, assertive black berries, soot, gunsmoke, nutmeg and wild herbs. Incredible that this is a different parcel from the same vineyard as Dandelion’s red-hearted Treasure...
2022
Dandelion VineyardsMcLaren Vale
Gemtree, Small Batch SBE Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
With more heft and drive than its sibling SBO, this shows darker fruit, dried sage, earth and musk. It's all about the fruit and caring...
2022
GemtreeMcLaren Vale
SC Pannell, Old McDonald Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2021
First appearances can be deceptive. Subtle, shy aromas of savoury red berries draw you in but then on the palate, an unexpectedly firm seam of...
2021
SC PannellMcLaren Vale
Thistledown, Sands of Time, Old Vine Single Vineyard Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Sourced from Sue Trott’s coveted home block, this shows a generous dark spectrum of fruit and a sharp acid bite that drives the mid-palate, with...
2022
ThistledownMcLaren Vale
Thistledown, She’s Electric Old Vine Single Vineyard Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Intensity from old-vine fruit meshes with a hum of acidity. Lifted aromas of musk and Turkish delight lead to flavours of wild strawberry, amplified by...
2022
ThistledownMcLaren Vale
Willunga 100, Smart Vineyard Grenache, Clarendon, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
A comforting, pretty perfume of roses and fresh berries seductively draws you in. Then persistent flavours of red and black fruits, savoury notes and fruity...
2022
Willunga 100McLaren Vale
Yangarra, Ovitelli Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2021
Peter Fraser is winemaker at Yangarra, an organic and biodynamic single-vineyard estate. Grapes for Ovitelli were sourced from Block 30 in Blewitt Springs, a 2ha...
2021
YangarraMcLaren Vale
Aphelion, Wait Single Site Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Arresting for its dashing red fruits and proud pinch of baking spices. There’s a long mid palate before – boom – a powder keg of...
2022
AphelionMcLaren Vale
d'Arenberg, The McLaren Sand Hills Single District Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2013
A single-site component of The Custodian Grenache, it will be exciting to watch this mature even further. Pepper and graphite aromas then the palate surprises...
2013
d'ArenbergMcLaren Vale
Dandelion Vineyards, Treasure Trove of McLaren Vale Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
A delicious melange of bright, juicy red berries and black cherries with wild sage, sarsaparilla and a sprinkle of raspberry dust. It’s surprisingly supple for...
2022
Dandelion VineyardsMcLaren Vale
MMAD Vineyard, Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Aromas of cranberry, dried cherry and oak spice. Dense fruit, crisp acidity and a full body. Flavours of spiced cherry and plum blend with savoury...
2022
MMAD VineyardMcLaren Vale
SC Pannell, Smart Vineyard Grenache, Clarendon, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2021
Has all the Smart vineyard characteristics: gorgeous, lifted floral perfume that dances lightly. The red cherry and strawberry flavours are bright and sunny without forced...
2021
SC PannellMcLaren Vale
Sherrah, Preservative Free Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2023
Dark, brooding aromas of liquorice, wild herbs, bright raspberry and redcurrant. Energetic and alive on the long, punchy palate, showing sharply defined black and red...
2023
SherrahMcLaren Vale
Silent Noise, MF Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Like an energetic redhead, carefree on the dancefloor. Yet despite the smiley winegum-like red fruit, there’s also firm grip to the palate, which tapers to...
2022
Silent NoiseMcLaren Vale
Willunga 100, Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Winemaker Skye Salter has taken three parcels from the Blind Spot vineyard and treated each differently but has achieved perfect cohesion in this dreamy melange...
2022
Willunga 100McLaren Vale
Wirra Wirra, The Absconder Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
The gruff exterior of an elder statesman – a snort of liquorice, soot and briar hedge laced with wild sage – which hides a tender...
2022
Wirra WirraMcLaren Vale
Bondar, Rayner Vineyard Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Seductive nose of rose, red fruits and dried sage. Fine-boned and elegant, with gentle savoury notes and a sprinkle of spice. Surprisingly firm tannins for...
2022
BondarMcLaren Vale
Hither & Yon, Sand Road Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
All high-toned cranberry over sunny cherry, but then slinky tannins pull a tight line. Texture and tone become the central focus before a pillow-soft landing....
2022
Hither & YonMcLaren Vale
Kay Brothers, Griffon’s Key Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2021
Only the seventh release of this reserve blend, taken from a single parcel on the Kay Vineyard and made only when the family declares an...
2021
Kay BrothersMcLaren Vale
Oliver's Taranga, Small Batch Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2023
Lovely balance, ripeness and supple harmonies – Crosby Stills Nash & Young jamming with Joni Mitchell – an engaging, enticing concoction, effortlessly bringing together nimble,...
2023
Oliver's TarangaMcLaren Vale
Yangarra, Old Vine Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia, 2022
Black-fruited grunt with savoury olive and sage. A surprise compared to the suppleness of other Yangarra Grenaches, but these 1946 vines have attitude. A grumpy...
2022
YangarraMcLaren Vale
