Expert’s Choice: Puglia Wines

Hardy native grape varieties and the southern heat make for a host of fascinating wine styles down in Italy’s heel. Michaela Morris goes in search of Puglia’s pedigree...

Puglia’s star is slowly rising. It remains the country’s most productive wine region despite subsidies aimed at curbing its excess. An EU-sponsored vine pull was intended to reduce vineyard on Puglia’s vast fertile plain, but it led to the loss of many precious old vines.

Scroll down to see Michaela’s top 18 wines from Puglia

Things started to look up when Primitivo was identified as the same grape variety as Zinfandel in the US. However, it has taken time for winemaking to catch up with the potential of this region’s raw material – though greater attention in the vineyard and winery is resulting in higher quality wines.The Puglia region, which forms Italy’s stiletto heel, makes diverse wine styles. The northern half grows late-ripening varieties including Bombino Bianco, a remarkably modest-in-alcohol white that has the added bonus of fresh acidity. Local producers are showing that this once-maligned grape has a future beyond padding out blends by reducing yields and picking at full ripeness.In the red section, Puglia’s secret weapon could be Nero di Troia: sinewy rather than opulent, it boasts a wild and exotic personality. This captivating variety reaches its apogee in the central zone of Castel del Monte, located on the Murgia plateau, which rises up to 450m. The area is also home to a rare DOCG dedicated to rosé: Castel del Monte Bombino Nero, which produces a delightful, fruity pink that rarely tops 12% alcohol.Jutting out into the Mediterranean, the low-lying plains of the southern Salento peninsula are home to Puglia’s most recognised grapes. Negroamaro is grown throughout Puglia, but it is particularly associated with the Adriatic side of Salento where it takes the lead in DOCs such as Salice Salentino, Squinzano and Copertino. Heat and drought resistant, Negroamaro ranges from mid-weight to full-bodied, giving dark fruited, leathery, sometimes rustic reds. Pink versions tend to be darker, heavier and higher in alcohol than Bombino Nero ones, but they are among Italy’s most characterful rosatos.

On the Ionian side of the peninsula, Primitivo dominates. This is where the DOC of Manduria is found. Typically rich, plump and jammy, Primitivo easily reaches a lofty 16% alcohol and may have traces of residual sugar. Thankfully, it seems that fewer winemakers are indiscriminately smothering Primitivo in new oak.

While Puglia is generally hot and sunny with little rainfall, it isn’t immune to the vagaries of vintage variation. Despite soaring temperatures, 2017 produced some fresh whites and rosés – a testament to how well suited Puglia’s vines are too hot, drought-like conditions. Current red releases hail from a variety of vintages: both 2015 and 2013 were typical – very warm and dry with occasional rain to refresh – producing generous yet balanced wines. In contrast, 2016 and 2014 were more variable, particularly the uncharacteristically wet 2014 which affected early ripening Primitivo and Negroamaro.

Puglia’s association with overproduction remains Italy’s heel’s Achilles heel, but there are quality-oriented producers championing the region’s native grapes and skilfully coaxing out their true character.

Michaela Morris is a widely published wine writer, educator, judge and speaker based in Canada, who works frequently in Italy

See Michaela’s top 18 wines from Puglia

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