Loire 2021 white wines: vintage report and new releases
Jim Budd reports on a 'markedly different' 2021 vintage in the Loire for its white wines, and recommends 36 wines to drink now from 2021 and 2020.
The 2021 vintage is very small in volume in the Loire, and is markedly different from the unbroken series of fine vintages from 2014 until now.
2021 has been frequently heralded as a return to a more classic style: more noticeable acidity, lower alcohol levels and less opulent, ripe fruit – a return to Loire wines’ famous ‘nervosité’, which is characterised by vibrancy and liveliness.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for 36 top Loire white wines from 2020 and 2021
A tricky growing season
Once again the Loire was hit by April frosts at the start of the month, culminating in the night of 11 April. Spring frosts are always a threat in this northerly wine region but in recent years, spring frosts have become more prevalent – in the past six years, for example, the Loire has been hit by frost in 2016, 2017, 2019 and 2021.
Instead of being a single devastating night of frost, as was the case in April 1991, the norm has become a series of nights below freezing.
Ivan Massonnat of Domaine Belargus in Anjou said: ‘From the end of March to the beginning of April, our team spent precisely 15 nights standing, fighting alongside our vines. Mother Nature has no schedules: she tested us even more than in previous years. There were too many freezing nights for us to protect our entire vineyard. Day after day, the uninjured areas therefore became increasingly rare, until only the three hectares of Quarts de Chaume remained.’
Sadly, losses of 70% were commonplace in 2021. Unusually, even Sancerre – which normally escapes substantial frost damage due to its steep slopes – was hit severely in 2021, including vineyards on the higher ground.
Fortunately there are now many more frost protection systems in place than there were seven or eight years ago, but the type of frost is often unpredictable.
The cold spring was followed by a poor, wet summer that provoked mildew, adding to the misery inflicted by the frost. Fortunately, September and October were sunny and dry, saving the vintage.
Picking started considerably later than in recent vintages. The Ban des Vendanges – the official start of the harvest period – for Muscadet, which is always among the first to start, was on 15 September in 2021. In comparison, in recent years Muscadet has started in early September or even the latter part of August: the 2020 harvest began on 26 August.
Loire white wine 2021: top producers
At the time of tasing, many wines were yet to be bottled and released
- Claude Lafond
- Domaine Cady
- Domaine des Herbauges
- Famille Bourgeois
- Jean-François Mérieau
Smaller crops but promising quality
Overall, the volume of the 2021 Loire vintage was down 40% on the previous year. It is closer in style to 2013 – an even later vintage which didn’t see the Muscadet picked until 23 September – although it is considerably better and more promising than that poor vintage.
David Vigan, manager at Château du Brueil in Anjou, said: ‘Given the difficult year, the quality of 2021 is astonishingly good. Overall, we were down 50% in volume so we had concentrated fruit in some parcels due to the small crop.’
Jacky Blot of Domaine de la Taille aux Loups had a similar experience: ‘We were down 50% at 19hL/ha but the quality was a nice surprise with good mature grapes.’
The shortage of grapes and the difficult conditions means that some producers will not have made their full range of wines. Jean-Marie Bourgeois, of Famille Bourgeois confirmed, ‘We haven’t made our top cuvées, like Jadis, in 2021.’
Loire white wines 2021: value picks
- Domaine des Herbauges, Fief Guérin Sur Lie, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu 2021
- Joseph de Maistre, Le Prieuré de Saint-Céols, Menetou-Salon 2021
- Domaine Cady, Cheninsolite, Anjou Blanc 2021
- Domaine Jacky Marteau, Touraine 2021
- Desprat Saint-Verny, Chardonnay 809 The Lost Vineyard, Côtes d’Auvergne 2021
With their marked backbone of acidity, well-made 2021 whites should age well provided they have enough fruit to carry and balance the acidity. In particular, there are some very good sweet wines made in Anjou in 2021, including from Quarts de Chaume.
It is in difficult vintages that good producers really come to the fore. Unfortunately it is evident that some 2021s have green fruit and rasping acidity, so you need to buy 2021s with care and expect prices to have risen, due in part to the small vintage but also because of recent substantial increases in the price of glass bottles and cartons.
Know your Loire white vintages
2017: Once again spring frosts reduced the crop, but less severely than 2016. Many very good whites with balance and finesse. 5/5
2018: A rare frost-free, very hot vintage with often high levels of alcohol – some whites just too powerful, heavy and lacking acidity. Large vintage. 3/5
2019: Another frost-affected vintage but it produced brilliantly balanced whites with some producers saying it is the best dry white vintage they have ever made. Will need time to show best but should age extremely well. 5/5
2020: Hot vintage with often concentrated, ripe white wines, some with very high alcohols up to 15%. However, there is more freshness and balance than 2018. Should mature more quickly than 2019s. 4/5.
2021: Most difficult vintage since 2013, with a small crop due to spring frosts, mildew and poor flowering for some varieties. Overall quality better than feared – return to a fresher, more traditional Loire style. There is a big range of quality between producers. 3/5
Jim Budd’s top Loire whites from 2020 and 2021:
While many 2021 Loire whites haven’t been bottled yet, Jim has recommended 13 that are already available, plus 23 2020s – all top picks to drink now.
Related content:
New release Loire reds: the best from 2019 and 2020
New release Loire white wines: the best from 2019 and 2020
Loire alternatives to Sancerre & Pouilly-Fumé: expert’s choice
Domaine Belargus, Treilles, Anjou Blanc, Loire, France, 2020
This concentrated and powerful 2020 Treilles is richly textured and opulent with honey and butter notes. Great potential to age. The creation of Domaine Belargus...
2020
Domaine BelargusAnjou Blanc
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Clos de Mosny, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Loire, France, 2020
The rich and concentrated but still youthful 2020 Clos de Mosny has complex aromas of butter, honey and vanilla and is richly textured with a...
2020
Domaine de la Taille aux LoupsMontlouis-sur-Loire
Domaine Pierre Luneau Papin, Clos des Allées Monopole Sur Lie, Muscadet, de Sèvre et Maine, Loire, France, 2020
This has long been one of my favourite Luneau Papin wines. The ripe but delicate 2020 has concentrated citric notes and is well balanced with...
2020
Domaine Pierre Luneau PapinMuscadet
Château de Villeneuve, Les Cormiers, Saumur, Loire, France, 2020
Rich and vibrant with complex notes of honey, vanilla and butter with fine mouth-filling texture and a long refreshing finish. Given the consistent quality of...
2020
Château de VilleneuveSaumur
Domaine des Bérioles, Autochtone Tressallier, Val de Loire, Loire, France, 2020
Soft pear and apricot notes, lovely opulent texture matched with balancing acidity in its long finish. Domaine des Bérioles is a leading and exciting domaine...
2020
Domaine des BériolesVal de Loire
Vincent Pinard, Chêne Marchand, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2020
Complex aromas, with layers of primary and secondary fruit and buttery richness. Tinned pineapple, toasted oak, confit apricot, herb and a touch of acacia. Seriously...
2020
Vincent PinardSancerre
Bonnet-Huteau, Les Laures Sur Lie, Muscadet, de Sèvre et Maine, Loire, France, 2020
This complex, opulent, concentrated 2020 has citric, floral and yeasty notes from time on its lees and an attractive texture. This is a Muscadet for...
2020
Bonnet-HuteauMuscadet
Château Pierre-Bise, Clos le Grand Beaupréau, Savennières, Loire, France, 2020
This rich and opulently textured 2020 has ripe citrus aromas with wood notes. The rich, long, powerful finish masks the wine’s balancing acidity. This is...
2020
Château Pierre-BiseSavennières
Jérémie Huchet, Clos Les Montys Sur Lie, Muscadet, de Sèvre et Maine, Loire, France, 2020
Soft, complex lemony aromas, with a ripe and mouth-filling texture, good length and balance. It is still quite young but has clear potential to develop...
2020
Jérémie HuchetMuscadet
Desprat Saint-Verny, Chardonnay 809 The Lost Vineyard, Côtes d'Auvergne, Loire, France, 2021
This complex 2021, which is vinified in stainless steel, is impressive for a difficult vintage with its apple and melon aromas, ripe texture, long finish...
2021
Desprat Saint-VernyCôtes d'Auvergne
Gérard Fiou, Terroir Silex, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2021
Light citrus aromas and mouth-filling ripe fruit nicely balanced by its refreshing acidity in its long finish. This promising, charming Sancerre should develop further in...
2021
Gérard FiouSancerre
Lionel Gosseaume, Domaine de Pierre Les Sauterelles, Touraine, Loire, France, 2021
Opulent gooseberry and yellow plum aromas, mouth-filling ripe fruit and good balancing ripe acidity. An impressive 2021 Sauvignon. Lionel Gosseaume’s Domaine de Pierre started life...
2021
Lionel GosseaumeTouraine
François Chidaine, Les Bournais, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Loire, France, 2020
A complex 2020 with very ripe apple aromas and some honey notes. This is balanced by some refreshing acidity on the finish, although partially masked...
2020
François ChidaineMontlouis-sur-Loire
Alphonse Mellot, La Moussière, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2021
An impressive 2021 with quite ripe, rich, mouth-filling fruit with notes of grapefruit. Currently it is a little tight in the well-balanced finish, but I...
2021
Alphonse MellotSancerre
Domaine Cady, Cheninsolite, Anjou Blanc, Loire, France, 2021
There’s light wood notes along with lemon and quince, leading to a ripe, concentrated texture. It is still quite tight in the finish and needs...
2021
Domaine CadyAnjou Blanc
Domaine des Aubuisières, Cuvée de Silex, Vouvray, Loire, France, 2021
Vibrant and quite richly textured with notes of pear and apple with good length and balance. I expect it to develop further in bottle. A...
2021
Domaine des AubuisièresVouvray
Domaine des Herbauges, Fief Guérin Sur Lie, Muscadet, Côtes de Grandlieu, Loire, France, 2021
This has vibrant lemon and yeasty aromas with mouth-filling ripe fruit. Although still youthful and tight it is well balanced with clear potential – a...
2021
Domaine des HerbaugesMuscadet
Domaine Laporte, Le Rochoy Terroir de Silex, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2021
The well-balanced 2021 Rochoy has an attractively rich texture with hints of brioche in the long finish and has the potential to age well. Domaine...
2021
Domaine LaporteSancerre
Famille Bourgeois, En Travertin, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, France, 2021
Opulent yellow plum aromas, followed by a mouth-filling texture, all well balanced with vibrant acidity. Domaine Henri Bourgeois has recently been rebranded as Famille Bourgeois,...
2021
Famille BourgeoisPouilly-Fumé
Jean-François Mérieau, L'Arpent des Vaudons, Touraine, Loire, France, 2021
The richly fruited 2021 L’Arpent des Vaudons has ripe plum notes with a vibrant texture and saline notes in the finish. Impressive for the vintage....
2021
Jean-François MérieauTouraine
Domaine des Deux Vallées, Clos du Petit Beaupreau, Savennières, Loire, France, 2020
Buttery and vanilla aromas, with a richly textured palate and a long, quite austere finish. It has a good potential to age. The now 61ha...
2020
Domaine des Deux ValléesSavennières
Joseph de Maistre, Le Prieuré de Saint-Céols, Menetou-Salon, Loire, France, 2021
The 2021 Menetou-Salon is impressive for a difficult vintage with ripe mouth-filling fruit, good length and complexity. Le Prieuré de St-Céols is in the centre...
2021
Joseph de Maistre, Le Prieuré de Saint-CéolsMenetou-Salon
Clos Roussely, Touraine- Chenonceaux, Loire, France, 2020
Lots of yellow plum and pineapple notes, a rich texture with enough balancing acidity in the long finish. The dynamic and far-sighted Vincent Roussely is...
2020
Clos RousselyTouraine- Chenonceaux
Domaine Claude Lafond, Le Clos des Messieurs, Reuilly, Loire, France, 2020
With soft yellow plum aromas, this is attractive and ripe and richly textured with ripe, but the acidity keeps the finish refreshing. It was the...
2020
Domaine Claude LafondReuilly
Domaine de Bablut, Ordovicien, Anjou Blanc, Loire, France, 2020
The powerful Ordovicien comes from Chenin Blanc planted on schist in the Beaumont vineyard. Vinified and aged in oak, the 2020 has complex, rich aromas...
2020
Domaine de BablutAnjou Blanc
Domaine des Aubuisières, Le Plan de Jean, Vouvray, Loire, France, 2020
The delicately sweet 2020 Le Plan de Jean is vinified in temperature controlled vats. It has attractive lychee and apricot notes. All too often these...
2020
Domaine des AubuisièresVouvray
Domaine des Forges, St-Aubin, Coteaux du Layon, Loire, France, 2020
Attractive apricot aromas, this is delicately sweet but is a nicely balanced lighter style of Layon suitable as an aperitif or served with cheese. The...
2020
Domaine des ForgesCoteaux du Layon
Jérémie Mourat, Blanc de Noirs Moulin Blanc, Val de Loire, Loire, France, 2020
Made using natural yeasts, this has complex citrus and red fruit aromas, mouth-filling texture and a long but slightly tight finish at present, so it...
2020
Jérémie MouratVal de Loire
Vignoble Alain Robert, Ammonite, Vouvray, Loire, France, 2020
Rich aromas of honey and vanilla, followed by a concentrated mouth-filling texture, medium length with some tightness on the finish at present. Vignoble Alain Robert,...
2020
Vignoble Alain RobertVouvray
André et Edmond Figeat, Les Craies, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, France, 2021
The 2021 Les Craies Pouilly-Fumé has slightly smoky notes and is attractively richly textured with racy, vibrant, marked acidity in the quite long finish. This...
2021
André et Edmond FigeatPouilly-Fumé
Cellier du Beaujardin, Domaine des 7 Lieues, Touraine, Loire, France, 2020
The 2020 Sauvignon from Les 7 Lieues has attractive ripe grassy and gooseberry aromas, is medium bodied with a very clean, vibrant finish. Cellier du...
2020
Cellier du BeaujardinTouraine
Domaine Alain Cailbourdin, Les Cris, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, France, 2020
The 2020 has grassy, gooseberry and yellow plum notes. It is richly textured and well-balanced with good vibrant acidity. Domaine Alain Cailbourdin was set up...
2020
Domaine Alain CailbourdinPouilly-Fumé
Domaine de Villargeau, La Clé des Vignes, Côteaux de Giennois, Loire, France, 2020
This rich and ripe 2020 has grassy and gooseberry aromas, good texture and racy length. This is a ripe style of Coteaux du Giennois from...
2020
Domaine de VillargeauCôteaux de Giennois
Domaine des Rochelles, Coteaux de l'Aubance, Loire, France, 2020
The 2020 has opulent ripe apricot and peach aromas and an attractive citric texture. This is a lighter style of Coteaux de l’Aubance to serve...
2020
Domaine des RochellesCoteaux de l'Aubance
Domaine Jacky Marteau, Touraine, Loire, France, 2021
Citrus, grassy aromas with some ripe texture and good balancing acidity in the slightly short finish. However, overall this is a successful 2021. Along with...
2021
Domaine Jacky MarteauTouraine
Baudry-Dutour, La Chapinière, Touraine, Loire, France, 2020
This 2020 La Chapinière has grassy and gooseberry aromas, ripe fruit with a long vibrant finish. Baudry-Dutour, run by Christophe Baudry and Jean-Martin Dutour, is...
2020
Baudry-DutourTouraine
