Mâconnais magic: Tasting Domaine Thibert’s Vignes Blanches 2010-2017

Starting with a tiny plot in 1967, but with historical links back to 1668, Domaine Thibert has expanded and flourished over the generations to a holding today of 26ha of prime vineyard sites dispersed throughout southern Mâconnais.

After taking over from their parents when they retired, Domaine Thibert is now run by brother and sister team Christophe Thibert. who joined the family business in 1991 and Sandrine Thibert-Needham in 1999.

Scroll down for the Domaine Thibert Vignes Blanches 2010-2017 tasting notes and scores

The pair control the winemaking and business side respectively using their expert knowledge of the region’s terroirs, respect for the environment and commitment to quality, to deliver exceptional wines with a real sense of place.

With meticulous efforts made in the vineyard and cellar the pair work to showcase the potential of each plot, and given the estate owns vineyards in all the crus of southern Burgundy, and the main appellations of the Mâconnais, they have a rare opportunity to reveal such a variety of terroir distinctions.

‘We are lucky because our parents only had Pouilly Fuissé vineyards’, Sandrine said during a recent video call, explaining their desire to increase holdings throughout the region.

Today the estate produces a range of 20 wines from entry-level Bourgogne to top-class single-vintage cuvées of which there are 10.

The holdings comprise:

• Pouilly Fuissé: 8ha
• Pouilly Loché: 1ha
• Pouilly Vinzelles: 2ha
• Saint-Vérain: 4.5ha
• Mâcon Fuissé: 4ha
• Mâcon Prissé: 1ha
• Mâcon Verzé: 3.5ha
• Bourgogne: 1ha

Techniques & technology

Key to the philosophy is responsible farming as well as a never-ending quest to increase standards at every stage of production: vineyard, vinification, aging and packaging.

Christophe adopts a parcel-by-parcel approach in the vineyards using his taste, and scientific analysis, to determine the precise time to harvest in order to achieve both maturity and acidity. He also wants to keep alcohol levels below 13% ABV to retain ‘elegance and freshness’.

While not fully organic, Christophe limits the use of chemical treatments and copper ‘because it’s not good for the soils or the environment’ as well as minimising the sulphite content ‘so the wines taste more comfortable when young’.

Over the years Christophe has reduced the use of oak barrels down to between 15-20%, using stainless steel for the rest as it’s ‘important to respect the terroir and keep the fruit taste’.

A new vat room was created in 2015 to assist in micro-parcel vinification and Christophe also invested in a new, state-of-the-art bottling machine last year. The machine from Italy, affectionately labelled as ‘the Rolls Royce’, reduces the transport of oxygen between the tank and the bottle. ‘It was expensive, but it’s super’ he said.

Wines are bottled and only released ‘when they’re ready to drink’. The single-vineyard wines are typically kept and aged for 23 months with between 18 and 20 months aging for the other wines in the range. As such, the 2015 vintage is currently on the market with the recently bottled 2018s ready to cellar.

Magnums are also favoured as a format size ‘for those who want to keep the wines for a long time’ and have recently had an upgrade with a new bottle shape to be used from the 2017 vintage. The latest iteration has a longer and slimmer neck to better house the cork (also recently upgraded to better quality material) and for the least exchange of oxygen. Another expense, but for Christophe, it is crucial for long aging.

The tasting

This tasting focused on bottlings of Pouilly Fuissé Vignes Blanches, one of the estate’s biggest single-vineyards at 1.09ha and in production since 1992.

It is also one of the sites that has recently been designated premier cru status by the French National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO) after a 10-year application process. The estate’s Vers Cras and Les Perrières will also benefit from the new distinction, the latter being the first vintage for Domaine Thibert in 2020.

Pouilly-Fuissé Vignes Blanches

Location: In the commune of Fuissé, situated mid slope (at an approximate 23% incline)

Age: Oldest vines planted in 1920, youngest in 1971

Exposure: South/south-east, with the slope offering significant drainage and beneficial aspect to the sun assisting grapes in concentration and richness

Soils: Stones and clay over shallow limestone (brunisols, calcisols)

Vinification and maturation: A period of 18 – 23 months with a portion in barrels and the remainder in stainless steel tanks

Bottling: Low or no filtration

Cellaring: 8 to 10 years.

Eight vintages were tasted spanning 2010-2017 showcasing the nuances of flavour development and just how remarkably these wines age. Each displayed laser-sharp precision with citrus and stone fruit flavours alongside hazelnut and almond tones, baked pastry notes and mineral streaks. Some had a florality while others offered layers of baking spice.

What stood out was the freshness as well as the complexity of aroma, taste and texture as the wines got older. The vintages 2012 and 2013 were particularly excellent offering such an array of characters but still so lively and vibrant.

Three wines were also tasted from magnum (2013, 2011 and 2010 which is perfect to drink now), and almost certainly helped retain an element of youth. I’d suggest getting hold of these larger formats if you can.

Speaking of the 2010 vintage Sandrine said; ‘Today it is very fresh but when it was young it wasn’t approachable, especially when compared to 2013 which was ready much sooner. Usually the wine needs at least five years before it’s drinkable’ – a perfect excuse to buy a few cases to drink now and to keep for future drinking pleasure.

See the Domaine Thibert Vignes Blanches 2010-2017 tasting notes and scores

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