Michigan wine: travel guide plus 10 top bottles worth seeking out
There is much more to Michigan than bitter winters and motown. Katie Kelly Bell reports on the mid-western state's thriving wine industry and suggests the best places to discover its elegant cool-climate reds and whites. Meanwhile, Charles Curtis MW picks out some top wines to try.
Michigan winters are notoriously brutal and yet its winemaking industry thrives, owing much of its success to a particular microclimate created by ancient glacial activity.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Charles Curtis MW’s top Michigan wines to try
While there are five AVAs in the state (Fennville, Lake Michigan Shore, Leelanau Peninsula, Old Mission Peninsula and Tip of the Mitt), the two most prominent (Leelanau, Old Mission Peninsula) got their start more than 10,000 years ago as powerful glaciers formed the Great Lakes and created the peninsulas.
Surrounded by the waters of Lake Michigan, the Leelenau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula AVAs enjoy the moderating influence of the lake effect on winter’s bitter temperatures, extending the harvest season and ultimately benefiting the aromatic, acid-driven varieties that do best here. Traverse City is the central point between both AVAs, which together comprise the Traverse Wine Coast, an easily navigable tasting trail comprising 40 wineries, making it the largest collection of winemakers in the Midwest.
See also: travel guides for Idaho, Colorado, North Carolina and Texas
The glaciers may have done the landscaping, but most locals agree the Michigan wine industry really owes its reputation to the late Ed O’Keefe, the founder of Chateau Grand Traverse winery. According to Mike Kent, public relations manager for Traverse City Tourism, in the 1970s, O’Keefe ‘had the crazy idea that because of the moderate microclimate on these peninsulas, you could pursue winemaking. He was right, and in just 30 years we’ve seen tremendous growth and our wines have won many prestigious awards’.
Today, the Traverse Wine Coast and its two peninsulas are home to 60% of Michigan’s total wine production. The focus in this area is on cool-climate aromatic reds and whites such as Riesling and Pinot Gris, as well as rosé made from Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc – and the occasional Lemberger (Blaufränkisch). Incredible views of Lake Michigan framed by picturesque hillsides topped with quaint lighthouses can be found throughout the region.
Any visit to this area must include a stop at O’Keefe’s pioneering winery. It’s a great place to watch the sunset while enjoying a flight of wines paired with seasonal menu offerings. It also has accommodation – The Inn at Chateau Grand Traverse – if you want to make a night of it. Left Foot Charley in Traverse City has a century-old historic root cellar where it now ages its wines. Try the Sparkling Island View Vineyard Pinot Blanc 2018, crafted from Michigan’s oldest Pinot Blanc planting (dating back to 1995).
For Charles Curtis MW’s regional profile on Michigan, click here
On the Leelanau Peninsula, Ciccone Vineyard & Winery is well-known for red expressions, especially the Cabernet Franc and Lee La Tage Bordeaux blend, both medal-winning wines. You may recognise the name – the owner and founding winemaker is pop star Madonna’s father.
Black Star Farms, recognised for its quality Riesling, has wineries on both peninsulas, but the Suttons Bay location (5km away) delivers an all-in-one winery experience with a luxury inn (Inn at Blackstar Farms), restaurant (Hearth & Vine Café), and access to several hiking trails spread over 64ha.
Just a 10-minute drive away, 45 North Vineyard and Winery, so named for the 45th latitude line that runs right through its winery, invites visitors to wander a lovely 5km trail that winds throughout the vineyards; or take a seat by the fire in the tasting barn, featuring handcrafted posts and beams, and indulge in the lemon cream notes of its extremely popular Unwooded Chardonnay.
Michigan: stay & eat
Traverse City and its wine coast are well known as havens for delicious farm-to-table cuisine. If you love a food truck, visit The Little Fleet, a permanent selection of food trucks serving up everything from local brews and wine to burgers and barbecue. More upscale, consider the waterfront dining option at the Boathouse, on Old Mission Peninsula – pair the local speciality, smoked whitefish pâté, with a crisp unoaked Chardonnay.
Village Cheese Shanty in Fishtown, Leland, features more than 60 types of cheese and local cherry preparations; people have been known to drive long distances to eat one of its epic sandwiches.
For an immersive wine country stay, book at Chateau Chantal on Old Mission Peninsula, which offers cooking classes and wine dinners, and rooms with a view over Grand Traverse Bay. Park Place Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in town and a landmark in Traverse City, while the sprawling Grand Traverse Resort and Spa, 13km from Traverse City, is owned by Ottawa and Chippewa Indians, offering everything from gambling to golf.
Charles Curtis MW’s Michigan wines to try
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Mawby, Blanc Brut, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan, USA
90
This traditional-method sparkler with a twist is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Riesling. After 16 months on the lees, it is disgorged and dosed at 8g/l. The finished wine has little overt Riesling character, but there is a slight green tint to the hue. There is surprising finesse here, with aromas of white flowers and ripe pear. The mousse is fine and lively, and refreshingly crisp acidity leads to a juicy finish.
MawbyLeelanau Peninsula
Left Foot Charley, Island View Vineyard Pinot Blanc, Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan, USA, 2017
92
Intensely aromatic, with notes of greengage plums, lime peel and a stony mineral underpinning. On the palate, there is just a hint of CO2, very crisp acidity and light body, but there is still an impressive persistence to the finish. This is a Pinot Blanc to make you sit up and take notice!
2017
Left Foot CharleyOld Mission Peninsula
Mari Vineyards, Dry Riesling, Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan, USA, 2016
92
Geisenheim-trained winemaker Sean O’Keefe believes too much sweetness in Riesling is as unnecessary as 'ketchup on steak'. This bone-dry beauty is produced exclusively from the Jamieson Vineyard at the tip of the Old Mission Peninsula. The 2016 vintage shows some developed petrol aromas and hints of lime peel and earth. Lively, crisp acidity carries this complexity on the palate to an exciting conclusion.
2016
Mari VineyardsOld Mission Peninsula
bigLITTLE, Treehouse White Pinot Noir, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan, USA, 2018
91
Produced by innovative young winemaker Michael Laing, this Pinot Noir is whole-cluster-pressed and then fermented off the skins in new and used casks to create a lovely Blanc de Noirs with notes of ripe apricot, marzipan and white flowers. On the palate, the texture is pleasantly dense yet shows a deft balance between fresh acidity and rich extract. Marvellous!
2018
bigLITTLELeelanau Peninsula
Mari Vineyards, Pinot Bianco, Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan, USA, 2017
91
A blend of 80% Pinot Bianco, 15% Pinot Grigio and 5% Friulano. The first two grapes were whole-cluster pressed and fermented in stainless steel; the Friulano was fermented on the skins for 48 days. The final result is superb, with aromas of fresh peach and mango, herbs and beeswax. On the palate, there is a pleasantly dense texture carried to impressive length by a mouthwatering freshness.
2017
Mari VineyardsOld Mission Peninsula
Black Star Farms, Arcturos Pinot Gris, Michigan, USA, 2018
90
Alsatian in style, this delicious white is fermented in stainless steel, delivering ripe melon fruit aromas of impressive purity with a hint of spice and a note of honey. On the palate, the wine is rich (4g/l residual sugar), but the acidity is crisp, and the final impression is one of exquisite balance and weight.
2018
Black Star Farms
Left Foot Charley, Kerner, Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan, USA, 2018
89
Traditional to Austria and Northern Italy, the Kerner grape yields seductive results here. Fermented and aged in large, used casks, there is an apricot fruit character plus hints of fresh flowers and cream. The palate is clean and fresh – the oak character is more texture than taste, lingering subtly on the finish. Impressively elegant and sophisticated.
2018
Left Foot CharleyOld Mission Peninsula
Braganini, Traminette Reserve, Lake Michigan Shore, Michigan, USA, 2019
88
Traminette is a hybrid of Gewürztraminer and table grapes and this wine is an excellent example of its type. Surprisingly elegant, it shares some of the spicy rose-petal aromatics of its Alsatian parent but none of the heaviness. The 11g/l residual sugar is balanced by 7g/l acidity, resulting in a slightly off-dry but refreshing medium-bodied wine with a clean, lingering finish.
2019
BraganiniLake Michigan Shore
Shady Lane Cellars, Blaufränkisch Reserve, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan, USA, 2016
91
The product of a hot dry summer, this wine represents a barrel selection of the best estate Blaufränkisch. The fruit is punched down during fermentation in open-top fermenters and aged for 22 months in a combination of new and used casks. The wine has a deep purple-blue colour and a pronounced mulberry aroma, with bramble and spice flavours. The texture is firmly tannic but supple, and the finish lingers delightfully.
2016
Shady Lane CellarsLeelanau Peninsula
Mari Vineyards, Praefectus, Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan, USA, 2018
90
This sturdy red is a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. These last two varieties are grown under temporary greenhouses called 'hoop-houses', ripening to perfection. There are pleasant aromas of cherry, blackcurrant and plum, with a suggestion of mint tea. On the medium-bodied palate, well-managed tannins combine well with acidity that is fresh but not tart for a gracious finish.
2018
Mari VineyardsOld Mission Peninsula
