New-wave Rioja: panel tasting results

Sarah Jane Evans MW, Diana Rollan and Beth Willard tasted 73 wines, with three Outstanding and 29 Highly Recommended.

New-wave Rioja panel tasting scores

73 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 29

Recommended 31

Commended 6

Fair 4

Poor 0

Faulty 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release vintages of red Rioja that don’t conform to the traditional oaked styles of Rioja defined by age statements; that showcase modern styles and different methods of winemaking; with ageing in concrete, amphora, etc; and single-vineyard wines

What an enjoyable tasting! To be sure, all these wines shared the ‘Rioja’ label, but then their paths diverged. For us as tasters it was an absorbing, delicious journey through the contemporary DOCa, its aspect and altitudes, its varieties and vinifications. What is happening in Rioja is so much more varied and exciting than the wine textbooks would have you believe.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring new-wave Riojas

Given the eclecticism of the wines that Decanter requested for this tasting (see ‘Entry criteria’, above), we tasted according to vintage, starting with the youngest, then with unoaked before oaked. What was it that we enjoyed so much?

According to Diana Rollan: ‘A diverse range of styles, based on quality over quantity of oak’. Beth Willard: ‘I was looking for, and scored more generously, wines that offered floral notes, red cherry, crunchy acidity and a focus on fruit, even if there was no oak present.’

Rarely did we comment on or criticise heavy-handed use of oak. Further, there was fine expression of place – and freshness. As Rollan noted: ‘A common denominator for all these wines is the freshness, minerality and the balance above all, versus [the traditional measure of] oak ageing as the primary indicator of quality.’ The different fermentation and ageing processes, and containers used in production, also potentially offered different texture and palate weights.

The tasting certainly reflected the diversity of Rioja today – even simply in terms of grape varieties. There was a Maturana and a Mazuelo (Carignan/Cariñena), as well as four 100% Gracianos, and 12 Garnachas – each of them giving a stylistic choice. There was also a mix of vineyards, sub-zones, altitudes and oaks. To be honest, we were comparing chalk and cheese with so many different styles. This explains some of the surprising results, where some established reputations received lower scores than are usual.

Willard summed it up: ‘Some of the lower scoring wines were very good – and my notes reflect that – but for me they fell into the category of more mainstream (even if tasty!) Rioja. Rather than judging as a UK-based Rioja drinker, I was focused on the brief of the tasting, bringing my knowledge of the more vineyard-focused work going on in the region.’

Overall we finished tasting with feelings of excitement and enthusiasm. Inevitably a few questions remain. Rioja is renowned for its ageability. What about these young stainless steel and/or concrete wines? Will they age? What will the absence of oak influence do? Will it reduce longevity? We so enjoyed some of these young styles, that frankly we didn’t mind. Enjoy them now or soon.

Choice is a fine thing, and Rioja is offering glorious choices nowadays. How, though, to communicate these wines?

‘The new wave of Rioja definitely adds value to the region by offering a more diverse range of styles,’ said Rollan. ‘However, I don’t think these are easily understood by consumers. The way to help people to buy these styles is by adding regionality for Rioja into wine lists; by offering wines from the municipalities and Viñedos Singulares; and restaurants should be looking to offer these new styles by the glass.’

Willard added: ‘None of these wines are particularly cheap, so they’ll attract a customer who can see beyond traditional classifications: there is a lot for an engaged consumer to get behind, even if they require more of a hand-sell.’

Take our advice: read the notes, make your choices, then seek out and enjoy the wines.

The top scoring new-wave Riojas: 

The judges

Sarah Jane Evans MW is an awarded journalist, author and broadcaster, and a DWWA Co-Chair. Author of The Wines of Northern Spain (Infinite Ideas, 2018), she is also chair of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino

Diana Rollan is group head of beverage for D&D London restaurants group. A DWWA judge for Spain, she formerly managed wine buying and training at Hakkasan Group as its UK head of wine

Beth Willard is buying director for independent merchant Winetraders UK, with a focus on Spain and Eastern Europe, and former buying manager at Direct Wines. A member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros de Vino, she was a joint Regional Chair for Spain at DWWA 2021

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