New Zealand Pinot Noir: Vintage report and 40 new releases rated
For its sheer capacity to provide fruit-filled pleasure and value for money, New Zealand Pinot Noir is one of the wine world’s most reliable categories. Our on-the-scene expert tasted through some 240 wines in all, and we reveal her top picks among recent vintage releases.
Compared to Sauvignon Blanc’s stratospheric rise, New Zealand’s most-planted red variety has had a somewhat slower burn.
The first Pinot Noir was planted in 1889 in Hawke’s Bay, but things didn’t really get going until 1980s pioneers such as Martinborough’s Dry River and Ata Rangi, and Central Otago’s Gibbston Valley and Rippon, lit the path.
New Zealand is a long, thin string of mountainous islands surrounded by the Southern Ocean. Regions just a few hundred kilometres apart can have significantly different growing conditions due to rain shadows, prevailing winds and river systems.
Scroll down for notes and scores for 40 brilliant NZ Pinot Noir recent releases
What unites them is ideal viticultural conditions – relatively cool with marked diurnal shifts, clear air, high UV levels and (mostly!) dry autumns. Unlike Burgundy, there’s very little limestone – the youthful stony soils are predominantly underpinned by greywacke sandstone.
The wine culture is also young; viticulturists and winemakers have matured alongside their vineyards. Refinement of sites, clones and winemaking have been the biggest drivers of style evolution.
The country’s hallmark pure fruit intensity offered the temptation to build structure via extraction [during winemaking] and new oak, but the resulting bold, dark wines often lacked finesse. Now, freshness and texture are key.
The wines are more interesting, with riper fruit tannins and less oak scaffolding. Whole-bunch fermentation is popular and there’s an increasing array of crunchy ‘nouveau’ and natural styles.
New Zealand Pinot Noir: the facts
Productive vineyard area: 5,678ha
Harvest volume (tonnes) 2023: 30,532 / 2022: 34,569 / 2021: 22,029 / 2020: 34,105 / 2019: 26,944
Pinot Noir as a % of total NZ production (2023): 6.1%
Exports (2023): 12.22m bottles (75cl equivalent); 2.9% of total NZ exports (3.9% in 2022)
Area planted, regions (north to south): Hawke’s Bay 221ha of 4,805ha; Wairarapa 517ha of 1,089ha; Marlborough 2,637ha of 29,654ha; Nelson 162ha of 1,080ha; North Canterbury 427ha of 1,464ha; Central Otago 1,658ha of 2,054ha
Source: NZ Wine, 2023; Wine Export Certification Service.
Global perspective
One of the joys of New Zealand Pinot Noir is its accessibility – few wines need cellaring, though the better wines will still comfortably mature for 10 years or more.
It’s increasingly common to see producers holding back wines for release – while this selection of 40 includes current releases from 2020 to 2023, other wines going back to 2016 can be found on Decanter.
New Zealand’s Pinot Noir delivers good consistency and relatively high overall quality.
But the flipside can be slightly uninteresting, cookie-cutter wines. The tiny volumes of many of the top wines make them hard to find. On the plus side, pricing, especially of the best bottles, makes New Zealand Pinot relatively good value in a global context.
And thanks to its consistency, aided by a string of recent good vintages, there’s less risk involved for consumers.
‘The biggest challenge facing New Zealand producers,’ says Sophie Parker-Thomson MW, general manager and co-owner of Blank Canvas Wines, ‘is to drive a mindset shift in the fine wine drinkers and collectors of the world away from label bias and to have these wines considered on the same quality paradigm as Burgundy.’
Decanter vintage rating: NZ Pinot Noir
2023 4/5
2022 3/5
2021 5/5
2020 5/5
2019 5/5
2018 3/5
2017 3/5
2016 4/5
Vintages and producers
New Zealand’s varied geography can make vintage generalisations difficult. While some years – 2021, 2020 and 2019 – had more uniform quality, it’s best to check the specifics of a region, and how the individual producer fared.
2022 was more nuanced. Although outstanding in Central Otago, most other regions had a humid, unsettled summer, largely saved by drier harvest conditions. Consequently, it was a year that favoured meticulous vineyard management.
The top names are likely familiar. They include Ata Rangi, Bell Hill, Burn Cottage, Dog Point, Felton Road, Gibbston Valley, Greywacke, Neudorf, Prophet’s Rock, Pyramid Valley and Quartz Reef.
But this exciting category now has significant depth. So names such as Black Estate, Blank Canvas, Carrick, Calvert, Clos Henri, Doctors Flat, Grasshopper Rock, Greystone, Huntress, Novum, The Boneline and Valli, among many others, should also be on your radar.
New Zealand: Around the regions
Pinot Noir is grown throughout New Zealand but seems to be happiest from inland of Hawke’s Bay on the North Island and southwards.
Wairarapa (North Island): Tiny but important area with pioneering, world-class wineries; three sub-regions: Martinborough (about 60% of plantings), Gladstone and Masterton. Devigorating wind and gravelly soils create low yields and thicker skins; perfumed, structured with savoury complexity.
Marlborough: A move from the stonier valley floors towards the rolling, clay-based hillsides of the Southern Valleys sub-region brought big improvements; exciting wines from drier, cooler Awatere. Many archetypal wines, but good value, too, thanks to the presence of some big companies. Fragrant, red-fruited, midweight, with fine tannins. A key area for sparkling and rosé.
Nelson: High sunshine with sheltering hills; perfumed, expressively fruity wines; Moutere clay soils give the wines silky tannins and texture.
North Canterbury: Early vineyards near Christchurch but more recently a migration north to the drier, more sheltered rolling hills of Waipara and the inland, limestone soils of nearby Waikari. Perfumed, spicy, red/black fruits, supple, textural.
Central Otago: Pinot Noir is the flagship variety, with some 80% of plantings. Six sub-regions: Gibbston, Bannockburn, Alexandra, Cromwell/Lowburn/Pisa, Bendigo and Wanaka. Quartz/schist/granite and glacial soils; aromatic, supple, vivid red/black fruit with spice and dried herbs, and good acid-tannin structure.
Emma Jenkins MW’s top New Zealand Pinot Noir wines from recent vintages:
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Ata Rangi, Kotinga Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2021
Bounds out of the glass with a lifted, floral perfume – spicy orange peel notes and plenty of generous fruit. The palate has lots of...
2021
Ata RangiMartinborough
Ata Rangi, Masters Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2021
A little reserved at first, then opens up with an elegant wave of gentle florals, red and blue fruits, and dried herbs; quite earthy, too....
2021
Ata RangiMartinborough
Bell Hill, Pinot Noir, North Canterbury, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2020
Quite a different style. While the classic abundant NZ fruit is present, it’s layered beneath subtle and complex earth, spice and forest floor (plus a...
2020
Bell HillNorth Canterbury
Escarpment, Kupe Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2022
Nose is pretty closed but there are intriguing, inviting flashes of earth, graphite, blue florals, damson plum, cherry and wild raspberry. Quite a silky, sweet-fruited...
2022
EscarpmentMartinborough
Felton Road, Calvert Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
A harmonious wine, so generous and giving that you nearly overlook the firm spine of acidity and tannin that shows its pedigree. Very fragrant and...
2022
Felton RoadBannockburn
Prophet's Rock, Cuvee Aux Antipodes Pinot Noir, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2021
Savoury and enticing on the nose with compact red cherry, wild berries, rose petals, wild thyme and crushed rock. There’s an opening gambit of sweet...
2021
Prophet's RockBendigo
Rippon, Tinker’s Field Mature Vine Pinot Noir, Wanaka, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2020
Gives little away on the nose. Tantalising glimpses of blackberry, bay leaf, rosehip, maybe some cherries and raspberry leaf. The palate is structural, dry and...
2020
RipponWanaka
Burn Cottage, Burn Cottage Vineyard Pinot Noir, Lowburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2021
From the biodynamically farmed home vineyard in Lowburn. A lively and complex character. Lavender, thyme, blueberry, cherry and pomegranate with earth, spice and a dense...
2021
Burn CottageLowburn
Calvert, Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2021
Dark cherry, milk chocolate, star anise, dried herbs, rosehip and a touch of earth and graphite. There's plenty of fruit but this isn't a fruity...
2021
CalvertBannockburn
Clos Henri, Waimaunga Windblown Clays Pinot Noir, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2022
Fragrant with waxy rose florals and dried herbs. There’s a strong savoury thread amid the bright red and black fruits. The palate has Wairau’s silky...
2022
Clos HenriWairau Valley
Doctor's Flat, Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2020
Very subtle and elegant. There’s a sense of ease in the warm, velvety Bannockburn fruit, interwoven with spices, earthiness, dried herbs and autumn leaves. Compact...
2020
Doctor's FlatBannockburn
Dog Point, Pinot Noir, Southern Valleys, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2021
An intense, inviting nose with lots of spicy liveliness and layers. Rich and quite bold in style but never heavy. Plenty of red and black...
2021
Dog PointSouthern Valleys
Felton Road, MacMuir Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
Deep colour, aromatics and flavour. Richly fragrant and quite bold (relative to the elegant Felton Road context) with the classic Bannockburn velvety mid-palate texture. Brimming...
2022
Felton RoadBannockburn
Gibbston Valley, Glenlee Pinot Noir, Gibbston, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
Evocative, perfumed nose with red cherries, blueberries, borage, violets, baking spice and a distinctive savoury herbal note. Lovely fruit and perfume alongside plenty of structure...
2022
Gibbston ValleyGibbston
Novum, Pinot Noir, Southern Valleys, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020
Made with 10% whole-bunch fermentation, fruit sourced about 60% from Quarters vineyard in the Brancott valley and 40% from the organic Settlement vineyard. Super-delicious, with...
2020
NovumSouthern Valleys
Prophet's Rock, Home Vineyard Pinot Noir, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
A very restrained nose gives a sense of the depth on the palate – cherries, spices, earth, soy. The savoury palate has plenty of tannin...
2022
Prophet's RockBendigo
Pyramid Valley, Angel Flower Pinot Noir, North Canterbury, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2022
Nose a little shy at first, then lots of perfumed red fruit emerges – tamarillo and plum, a dash of spice, a lift of blue...
2022
Pyramid ValleyNorth Canterbury
Pyramid Valley, Earth Smoke Pinot Noir, North Canterbury, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2022
<p>This has a powerful nose, a little reductive and smoky, with exotic spices and dark fruits – black cherry, five spice, dark cocoa, earth and...
2022
Pyramid ValleyNorth Canterbury
Quartz Reef, Anna von Tirol Pinot Noir, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
<p>While fairly closed at first, this soon opens up with opulently perfumed nose, layered red/black fruits, florals, spice, a lot of earth and vinosity here...
2022
Quartz ReefBendigo
Rippon, Emma’s Block Mature Vine Pinot Noir, Wanaka, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2020
Elegant and spicily perfumed, with delicate cranberry, rosehip, coal dust and sage/bay notes. The palate is somehow voluminous and compact at the same time, harmonious...
2020
RipponWanaka
Black Estate, Home Pinot Noir, Waipara Valley, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2023
A deceptively sophisticated wine, seeming at first joyfully pretty and open-knit; but the longer it sat in glass, the more comfortable and interesting it became....
2023
Black EstateWaipara Valley
Carrick, Arthur’s Vineyard Limited Release Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
Warm and velvety with a medley of blackberry, anise, dried herbs and forest floor. Plenty of depth to the fruit but it’s not fruity as...
2022
CarrickBannockburn
Chard Farm, Viper Vineyard Pinot Noir, Parkburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2021
Slowly yields blue and red fruit, and lavender florals, with a smoky, slightly herbal undertow that shifts and changes across the nose. Quite juicy and...
2021
Chard FarmParkburn
Colere, Ashmore Vineyard Pinot Noir, Southern Valleys, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2020
After an initial touch of bacon fat, mocha and tobacco whole-bunch notes, there’s plenty of wild red berries, cherries and pomegranate. Silky ripe fruit and...
2020
ColereSouthern Valleys
Escarpment, Pahi Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2022
A little shy at first, then layers of fruit (cranberry, pomegranate, red plum), earth, minerals and spice. Good weight and silkiness on the palate with...
2022
EscarpmentMartinborough
Greystone, Vineyard Ferment Waipara Pinot Noir, North Canterbury, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2021
A subtle, complex nose with earth, autumn leaves, fruit on the redder spectrum and a touch of iodine/bloodiness. The palate is layered and interesting, taut...
2021
GreystoneNorth Canterbury
Greywacke, Pinot Noir, Southern Valleys, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2022
Lovely opulence and perfume from the start, full of dark cherry, damson plum, earth and spice, a touch of orange peel and clove; slightly smoky,...
2022
GreywackeSouthern Valleys
Neudorf, Tom’s Block Pinot Noir, Moutere Hills, Nelson, New Zealand, 2023
A spicy, silky, mouthfilling wine at the richer end of the spectrum, admirably showcasing Nelson’s perfumed, ripe fruit. Black and red berries with a floral...
2023
NeudorfMoutere Hills
Te Whare Ra, Clayvin Single Vineyard 5096 Pinot Noir, Southern Valleys, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2021
A pretty nose, rich in fruit, earth, spice and blue flowers. The palate is vibrant and dense with wild raspberries, blackberries and plums, and for...
2021
Te Whare RaSouthern Valleys
Valli, Waitaki Vineyard Pinot Noir, Waitaki Valley, New Zealand, 2022
Perfumed and pure-fruited with cassis, red liquorice, strawberry jam, red cherry, vanilla and rose petals – think summer pudding. Juicy and upfront with a delicate...
2022
Valli
Craggy Range, Aroha Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2022
A subtle, layered wine with wild strawberry, blackberries and Black Doris plums, clove and earth, and a hint of orange peel. The palate is plush,...
2022
Craggy RangeMartinborough
Grasshopper Rock, Earnscleugh Vineyard Pinot Noir, Alexandra, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
From a single vineyard in Alexandra, one of the world’s most southerly, planted in 2003. Enticing nose, layered and interesting, perfumed with red liquorice, spice,...
2022
Grasshopper RockAlexandra
Monte Christo, Pinot Noir, Alexandra, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
A charming nose, very perfumed with a medley of red, blue and black fruits, lots of spice and a touch of florals. An elegant, bright...
2022
Monte ChristoAlexandra
Mount Edward, Pisa Terrace Pinot Noir, Pisa, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
Attractive savoury red and black fruit aromas and a lift of allspice, wild thyme and borage. Plush and velvety, consistent and textural palate with a...
2022
Mount EdwardPisa
Te Kano, Land Northburn Pinot Noir, Northburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
Cherries, red plums, hints of bacon fat and dark cocoa, wild thyme and allspice. A little shy but supple, with smooth tannins and generous, savoury...
2022
Te KanoNorthburn
Churton, Natural State Pinot Noir, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2022
Much to enjoy here. Raspberries and cream with a raw edge, lots of crunchy, vibrant fruit, the palate juicy within a lean (in a good...
2022
ChurtonWaihopai Valley
Huntress, Pinot Noir, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2023
An enticing perfume of sweet spices, cranberry, cherry and raspberry, some earth and light spicy whole-bunch notes. The fine, ripe fruit has been handled with...
2023
HuntressMartinborough
Judge Rock, Your Honour Pinot Noir, Alexandra, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2021
Layers of black cherry, raspberry, mineral notes, earth and tobacco. The ripe, fruit-rich palate has a touch of reduction and nice suppleness, with a juicy...
2021
Judge RockAlexandra
Pyramid Valley, Mānatu Pinot Noir, Lowburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
An inviting nose of rich cherry, wild raspberry and thyme, and sweet baking spices. The palate is balanced between a sweet core of fruit and...
2022
Pyramid ValleyLowburn
Peregrine, Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2022
Fragrant nose, slightly brooding with dark cherry, dried herb, liquorice, wild raspberry, pomegranate, lots of layers of ripe fruit and some satisfying earthy notes. Delivers...
2022
Peregrine
