New Zealand: Beyond Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir
New Zealand is more than a two-trick pony, says Chris Wilson, who selects 20 Chardonnays, Syrahs and others from a recent tasting
Every year New Zealand Wines hosts its New Zealand in a Glass tasting in London where wines from across this diverse country are poured – from Central Otago in the south to Northland near the tip of the North Island.
For a time this was very much a two-wine showcase, with Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir strutting their stuff, and little else in between. In recent years, however, the breadth of the Kiwi offering has increased markedly, with big guns like Syrah and Chardonnay suddenly stealing some of the limelight, and lesser-known varieties (certainly for New Zealand) such as Grüner Veltliner and Cabernet Franc vying for attention.Tasting wines from across the spectrum at this year’s event, it’s striking how many previously fledgling varieties are now standing toe-to-toe with Sauvignon and Pinot.
Chardonnay is fast becoming a Kiwi benchmark and is made in myriad styles – from bright, crunchy and fresh to rich, opulent and creamy.
Syrah is widely planted and responsible for some of New Zealand’s most revered reds, but increasingly Bordeaux varietal wines and blends are getting a look in too.
More obscure grapes such as Lagrein and Tempranillo are popping up with increasing regularity and producing some noteworthy wines. The esoteric is ubiquitous, it would seem, even among perennial safe-players like New Zealand.
Chris Wilson’s top New Zealand picks
You might also like:
New Zealand oaked Sauvignon Blanc: panel tasting results
New Zealand Pinot Noir wines to seek out
Loire vs Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc: Can you tell the difference?
Huia, Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay, Rapaura, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2016
This traditional-method sparkling wine is made from 100% Chardonnay and only when winemakers Claire and Mike Allan ‘feel like it’. The last vintage was 2011....
2016
HuiaRapaura
Giesen, The Fuder Clayvin Chardonnay, Southern Valleys, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2015
Fruit from 24-year-old vines planted on clay soils is fermented and aged on lees in 1,000L German fuder barrels. This approach offers less wine-to-oak interaction...
2015
GiesenSouthern Valleys
Greywacke, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2016
This is fast becoming a benchmark Marlborough Chardonnay to counterpoint the Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc. Grapes come from two clones planted on two distinctive soil types:...
2016
Greywacke
Greystone, Chardonnay, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2017
Delicious tropical backbone of passion fruit and pineapple, and a long, mouthcoating finish – this is the kind of plush Chardonnay that’s creeping back into...
2017
Greystone
Yealands Estate, State of Flux Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2018
Made in a concrete egg, this limited-edition wine (just 3,000 bottles were made) is buttery and bold with cream soda notes and a lemon sherbet...
2018
Yealands Estate
Esk Valley, Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2018
A distinctly aromatic Chardonnay that’s full of the green pepper character you'd usually associate with a Kiwi Sauvignon. This is remarkably fresh and alive with...
2018
Esk Valley
Muddy Water, Chardonnay, Waipara Valley, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2016
Whole-bunch fruit from a mature 27-year-old block is pressed and settled overnight before fermentation in French oak barrels. The result is a full, rich wine...
2016
Muddy WaterWaipara Valley
Saint Clair Family Estate, Omaka Reserve Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2017
Despite challenging weather during véraison and harvest in 2017, Saint Clair’s flagship Chardonnay is elegant and unctuous with bright peachy fruit and a smoky oak...
2017
Saint Clair Family Estate
Elephant Hill, Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2016
90
Hawke’s Bay enjoyed a warm, dry summer in 2016 followed by perfect autumn weather. This whole-bunch-pressed Chardonnay is wild-yeast fermented in oak barrels (25% new) and malolactic fermentation is inhibited so the lingering hint of creaminess comes from 11 months on the lees in barrel. It has a flinty nose, then peach, pear and subtle tropical flavours. A classy wine with a firm chalky bite and lick of butter on the finish.
2016
Elephant Hill
Escarpment, Chardonnay, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand, 2017
Larry McKenna’s 2017 Escarpment Chardonnay is not everyone’s cup of tea (the 2018 is much more vanilla, in every sense) but for those who like...
2017
EscarpmentMartinborough
Lake Chalice, The Raptor Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2018
Made from fruit grown on Burgundian rootstocks, this is a creamy, textured Chardonnay made in a very European style. The citrus acidity plays wonderfully with...
2018
Lake Chalice
Trinity Hill, The Gimblett, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2016
This Cabernet-led blend is savoury and dense, with flavours of soy sauce, lamb-chop fat, and finely ground black pepper playing hand-in-hand with the brooding dark...
2016
Trinity HillGimblett Gravels
Craggy Range, Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2016
A lovely floral note threads right through this Syrah, lifting it to a plain where any heavyweight varietal characters drop off. Perhaps fermentation in...
2016
Craggy RangeGimblett Gravels
Giesen, Organic Syrah, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2015
Destemmed, cold-soaked fruit is fermented in steel tanks for 14 days with daily hand-plunging to extract colour and character. The wine is lush with notes...
2015
Giesen
Waipara West, Cabernet Franc, Waipara Valley, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2018
The Cabernet Franc is the last fruit to be harvested at Waipara West allowing a little extra time for the grapes to ripen. The result...
2018
Waipara WestWaipara Valley
Elephant Hill, Hieronymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2015
Almost a classic Bordeaux blend (8% Tempranillo sneaks into the mix) from Elephant Hill’s Gimblett and Bridge Pa Triangle vineyards, Hieronymus is the winery’s top-tier...
2015
Elephant Hill
Stanley Estates, Lagrein, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2016
Italian varieties are increasingly finding their feet in the New World, nevertheless you don’t expect to see a Marlborough Lagrein. A savoury nose of charcuterie...
2016
Stanley Estates
Te Mata, Bullnose Syrah, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2018
A very modern take on Syrah which turns up the chocolate and cappuccino characters to create a rich and silky wine. There’s dark cherry and...
2018
Te Mata
Villa Maria, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2016
A sumptuous blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot from the small-stoned soils of Gimblett Gravels, this is punchy and full-on with plum, blackcurrant,...
2016
Villa MariaGimblett Gravels
Sacred Hill, Reserve Syrah, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2018
Excellent growing conditions for Syrah (hot and dry from December to February) meant that the fruit arrived at the winery in perfect condition. Here it...
2018
Sacred Hill