Ontario: The evolution of Riesling on the shores of the Great Lakes

The 1970s marked the quality wine movement for Ontario and Canada at large. Riesling was there from the start, with the first vines planted in 1976.

As Canada’s largest viticultural area, Ontario currently has 18,000 acres (7,300ha) under vine. Riesling makes up approximately 1,600 acres of this, neck and neck with Chardonnay.

The Niagara Peninsula represents over 80% of all vines in the ground. It boasts Canada’s largest Riesling plantings by far and almost double that of the neighbouring Finger Lakes, also known for high-quality cool-climate Riesling in New York State.

Scroll down for 20 Ontario Rieslings worth seeking out

Classic conditions

Why is Niagara optimal for growing Riesling?

Before serious viticulture took root, the region was known as the Niagara Fruit Belt, which produces over 90% of the province’s tender fruit and is one of the richest fruit-producing areas in Canada.

Lake Ontario, part of the world’s largest freshwater system, moderates the continental cool climate, creating a Mediterranean-like mesoclimate during summer and fall harvest.

Winter-hardy Riesling appreciates how the lake delays bud-break and minimises spring frost risks, moderates hot summers and then radiates heat into autumn’s harvest for prolonged phenolic development in the berries.

The Niagara Peninsula has a complex topography and soil composition shaped around the Niagara Escarpment, a north-facing cliff formation peaking at 177m above sea level.

Old dolomitic limestone underpins the region’s geology, and 200,000 years of glacial events have created the diverse terroir that is evident in the delineated sub-appellations. Here, Riesling thrives, producing delicious fruit flavours in tandem with exhilarating acidity and moderate alcohol.

Pioneers and evolving styles

Not surprisingly, Ontario Riesling plantings were inspired by the region’s pioneering winemakers, many of Germanic and Austrian heritage. They brought winemaking techniques primarily focused on using natural sweetness to balance the electrifying acidity from this ‘New World’ region.

As a result, most Riesling was made in a range of off-dry to semi-sweet styles.

Interestingly, it was Cave Spring Vineyard, founded by partners with Italian roots, bet on the Riesling horse in the race to determine which varieties would flourish.

This pioneering producer has made its mark on the global Riesling scene for decades, mostly with off-dry to semi-sweet styles.

Other Riesling leaders like Charles Baker, Thirty Bench and Henry of Pelham, similarly – regularly win domestic and international acclaim with Rieslings that have a natural sweetness to balance the region’s bracing acidity.

Year after year, Niagara continues to be triumphant within this style range.

However, things have been evolving with Ontario Riesling for quite some time. Fifteen years ago, finding a Riesling made with less than 9g/L residual sugar was atypical.

I recall my mission of setting up winery visits for author John Haeger as he was researching for his book ‘Riesling Rediscovered – Bold, Bright and Dry’. It was challenging to find more than a handful of examples to fit within his dry criteria (9g/L or less).

Uncommonly dry

Coincidently, shortly thereafter, Ontario’s Riesling world changed. In 2010, winemaker co-owner Francois Morissette of Pearl Morissette gained a monumental following with his Black Ball Riesling. It was fully dry and a completely different expression of this variety for Niagara.

Gabe Demarco, winemaker and viticulturist at Cave Spring Vineyard believes that while Cave Spring’s original style became a benchmark for Canadian Riesling, they are not finished with their Riesling story.

Demarco is digging deep and questioning everything. He has transitioned all winemaking to wild ferments, and the winery is Canada’s first to isolate indigenous yeast in its home vineyard.

Soon to be launched is a Riesling aged in concrete, barrique-style vessels the winery had crafted from local limestone.

‘My mentor, Angelo Pavan, Canada’s iconic Riesling winemaker at Cave Spring Vineyard, has always encouraged me to push the limits of what’s possible,’ says Demarco. ‘Since I started working with him, he has always allowed me to experiment.

‘That, combined with the Riesling that Pearl Morissette started making in 2010, reconfirmed my suspicions were true – Niagara Riesling deserves bold winemaking with techniques uncommon in the region.’

Bright wines and a bright future

Others are following their own quests, proving that Riesling does not need a singular approach in Ontario.

Winemaker owner David Eiberg of Therianthropy is focusing on phenolic extraction in a natural wine style and fermenting his fully dry.

Dobbin Estate winery makes two styles of Riesling –each with different residual sugars, but in both cases, very textural. Multiple picks with some slightly botrytised berries, some skin contact, partial MLF, wild ferments, and a combination of stainless steel and neutral wood all contribute to their complexity.

Jake Skakun, partner and Wine Director at some of Toronto’s top wine bars and restaurants, including Grey Gardens, is happy to see this. He believes that pushing for a unified style of Riesling in Ontario could hinder the diversity of exceptional expressions.

He remarks: ‘I admire many delicate, off-dry Niagara Rieslings with bright acidity, balanced by just the right amount of sweetness. However, I am equally impressed by fully dry versions, where the region’s winemakers use techniques like lees ageing or malolactic fermentation to bring richness and texture while integrating the electrifying acidity.’

Last year, the Ontario Wine Appellation Authority, which certifies Ontario wines of origin with VQA, approved 156 still, varietal Riesling wines from 71 producers of the 194 wineries in Ontario.

Indeed, Ontario Riesling producers are producing multiple expressions of this variety. And this does not include the additional Riesling styles of Icewine, late-harvest, skin-fermented white (orange wine), and sparkling wine.

As Skakun says, Riesling has found a perfect home in Ontario and should be admired for its diversity. While the region’s dry examples are expanding the Riesling story, it’s worth remembering that those with some sweetness show exceptional elegance and balance.

With many vines now over 35 years-old, it’s inspiring to see a new era for Ontario Riesling – pushing boundaries, informed by wisdom.

Tasting notes for 20 top Ontario Rieslings:

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