Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2018: Panel tasting results
Sadly lacking the biggest-hitting names, this tasting revealed consistent scores and notably differing styles between the Left Bank sister sub-regions.

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Gareth Birchley, Arthur Coggill and Melody Wong tasted 66 wines, with 31 Highly recommended.
Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2018: Panel tasting scores
66 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 0
Highly recommended 31
Recommended 32
Commended 3
Fair 0
Get our daily fine wine reviews, latest wine ratings, news and travel guides delivered straight to your inbox.
Poor 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2018 vintage of any Pessac-Léognan or Graves designated red wine, including cru classé
By late April 2018, London was already melting, and there was wall-to-wall sunshine well into October. Bordeaux had a different spring. Record March rainfall led to humidity in the vineyards and a real concern of rot before the buds had even burst.
Unusual as it was, it was July before our cousins in Aquitaine felt the benefits of any kind of heatwave. From then on, by contrast, the stage was set and Bordeaux experienced one of the hottest periods in half a century.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2018 panel tasting
On the basis of this tasting, what was produced in 2018 in the Graves and Pessac Léognan – to the south and southeast of Bordeaux city – was very much a mixed bag. Curiously, the two regions generally didn’t differ vastly in qualitative terms, but stylistically were polar opposites.
While the wines from Graves seemed curiously lean and lighter than we expected from such a warm vintage, both Melody Wong and Arthur Coggill agreed that the Pessacs were clearly much richer in body and texture and on the verge, in some cases, of being over the top.
Coggill put the ‘fruit-forward’ nature of many of the wines down to a ‘reflection of market demand’. With none of the wines peaking at more than 14.5% alcohol, it does seem strange that there were so many voluptuous examples. ‘I feel like the winemakers were trying too hard,’ Wong concurred.
We were all stumped as to how exactly two regions that are so similar geographically and geologically could make such consistently different expressions. Without doubt, those searching for freshness should save their pennies and buy the cheaper Graves wines, but those in pursuit of longevity should stick to the richer examples from Pessac-Léognan, which generally had ripe tannins that were well integrated but sometimes felt excessive.
See all the wines from the Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2018 panel tasting
I’ve often said that with Burgundy prices through the roof, in 2024, Bordeaux is the best value region around if you’re spending more than £50 per bottle – mainly because there’s great availability of mature vintages at similar prices to much younger wines.
Flipping that on its head, young, slightly disjointed wines feel overpriced compared to other regions. This tasting showed that in Bordeaux, paying more is key. Sadly, at the lower end, the quality doesn’t seem to be there and the wines lack identity and a sense of place. I’ll be curious to follow these wines over the coming decade.
In summary, there were no bad wines, but no outstanding examples either. There were notable omissions from the upper echelon of these regions, which would, no doubt, have pulled the average scores up dramatically. I know for sure that wines such as châteaux Haut-Bailly and Les Carmes Haut-Brion were stunning in 2018.
That being said, Wong noted that, in some cases, the ‘overall quality does not reflect the respective price-tags’. Coggill concluded that: ‘You wouldn’t be disappointed if you bought these wines… but at the same time, you’re not getting something amazing for the price.’
Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2018 panel tasting scores
Wines were tasted blind
The judges
Gareth Birchley is buying director at London-based Burns & German Vintners. After arriving in London in 2006, he worked in sales and senior buying roles at Bordeaux Index and Berry Bros & Rudd, before joining Burns & German in 2019.
Arthur Coggill is head of business development at London-based merchant Hatton & Edwards. Having joined Goedhuis & Co in a fine wine sales role in 2013, he ran its investment fund Vintage Capital for eight years before moving solely to buying in 2021, joining Hatton & Edwards in 2024.
Melody Wong is director of wine at The Peninsula, London. An experienced sommelier and wine buyer, she has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants and top hotels across the UK. In 2022, she was nominated in the GQ Food & Drink Awards Best Sommelier category.
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Gareth Birchley is buying director at London-based Burns & German Vintners. He started in wine in 2006 at Bordeaux Index before moving to Berry Bros & Rudd as a fine wine buyer for four years, joining Burns & German in 2019.
