Priorat 2021 vs 2022: Panel tasting results

Priorat wines — (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Beth Willard, Eugenio Egorov and Matthew Forster MW tasted 98 wines, with 5 Outstanding and 63 Highly recommended

Priorat 2021 vs 2022: Panel tasting scores

98 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 63

Recommended 27

Commended 3

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their dry red wines classified as DOCa/DOQ Priorat from the 2021 and 2022 vintages

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Priorat 2021 vs 2022 panel tasting

Opposites attract

The renowned Alvaro Palacios (see recommendations)

Vintage variation can be likened to different musical styles.

Taylor Swift, for instance, provides instant gratification, while Rosalía requires more thoughtful consideration, but both are outstanding in their own right.

In this panel tasting we compared the wines of Priorat from the two very different vintages of 2021 and 2022, one subtle and discreet, the other a little more obvious, but each expressing the region through unique interpretations.

In general, the cohort of 2022 wines offered immediate appeal, with bright, juicy fruit and ripe tannins, while the 2021 vintage wines tended to be fresher and more structured, with good ageing potential.

These characteristics seem to correspond to the vintage conditions, which varied greatly.

Drought and extreme heat marked the growing season in 2022, although the older Garnacha and Cariñena vines proved how resilient and adaptable they are when they experience tough conditions.

‘Serious knowhow’

In contrast, 2021 was altogether cooler, with lower temperatures and significantly more rainfall, which lowered alcohol levels appreciably.

Eugenio Egorov noted the ‘fresher and balanced wines from the cooler 2021’, but equally appreciated the approach to the warmer 2022 vintage.

‘The 2022 wines offer great fruit character,’ he explained. ‘There is more winemaking to balance the difficulties experienced in the vineyards, but the approach taken is heading in the right direction, with less over-oaking and more purity of fruit.’

The quality of winemaking was also noted by Matthew Forster MW. ‘Priorat is established – there’s a lot of serious knowhow, and the number of wines scoring 90 points or higher speaks to their credibility and quality.’

In particular, Forster highlighted the personality of the wines. ‘It is great to see stylistic diversity – the region is so much less homogenous than before.’

Certainly, vintage discussions aren’t redundant, but with serious winemaking skill and knowledge, the region’s more problematic years can be tamed and result in delicious wines.

Perhaps one day Rosalía – a native of Catalonia – might not just sing about Sauvignon Blanc but also the outstanding wines of Priorat!

What to eat with Priorat wines, by Fiona Beckett

Bold meat-based dishes are ideal partners for Priorat wines. — Bold dishes such as braised ox cheeks are ideal partners for the red wines of Priorat.

Should different vintages dictate different wine pairings? I guess it depends how far apart they are. You might well go for a different match with a younger wine than an older one, but should you take into account vintage conditions?

No more so, I’d suggest, than wines from different producers who favour a particular style. It’s also a question of personal taste – is it better to pair a hearty stew with an equally intensely flavoured wine or a lighter wine for refreshing contrast?

That said, Priorat is a wine I would turn to for the last roasts and braises of winter, particularly with dishes such as ox cheek and short rib, and look forward to opening with the first barbecues of spring and summer. They are definitely wines for carnivores.

They’re also good wines to serve with a cheeseboard, especially with stronger cheeses such as vintage cheddar and punchy blues, of which the Spanish have some great examples, such as Picos and Cabrales, although you might turn to the more structured 2021s for those.

So maybe you do need to take account of vintages after all…

See all notes and scores from the Priorat 2021 vs 2022 tasting

The judges

Beth Willard is a wine communicator and judge with a particular passion for the wines of Spain. A regular contributor to Decanter and one of the five Co-Chairs of the DWWA, she is also a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino

Eugenio Egorov is wine director at Six Senses London hotel & spa. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014

Matthew Forster MW is an independent wine consultant and education specialist, and founder of The Wine Partnership. A former director at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, he is particularly passionate about the food and wine cultures of Spain, Portugal and South America