Priorat red wines: panel tasting results
This region’s reputation for powerful reds and winemaking excellence held good in this wide selection of wines that showed quality and balance.
Beth Willard, Diana Rollan and David Williams tasted 97 wines, with 9 Outstanding and 43 Highly recommended.
Priorat red wines panel tasting scores
97 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 9
Highly recommended 43
Recommended 39
Commended 6
Fair 0
Poor 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release Priorat reds, including single varietal or blended wines
A few years ago, I found myself with a free afternoon in the Priorat region of Catalonia in northeast Spain and set off on the back roads to lose myself (and all sense of direction) in its rugged hills. Through the rolled-down windows, the breeze carried the wonderful scents of wild flowers and sotobosque (garrigue) undergrowth and, while the summer sun was harsh, at times blinding, it gradually gave way to the softer hues of a Mediterranean evening: glowing, shimmering, a final warm embrace before nightfall.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Priorat red wines panel tasting
This Decanter tasting of Priorat wines brought to mind that moment in time and took the judging panel on a journey through the region’s varied landscapes, its bright and bold styles as well as its more subtle nuances and its unique Catalan character.
The panel had expectations of big and bold wines with lots of oak and polish – but it was the regional and authentic personality of the wines that shone.
Balance and restraint were at the forefront, even in wines with unavoidably high alcohol (it is Priorat, after all). Many of the wines showed off the region’s famous llicorella (slate) soils, offering up flinty freshness without the make-up of excessive work in the cellar. David Williams felt that ‘the winemaking was much less ambitious and ‘more about the vineyards’. Diana Rollan was impressed by the overall style of the wines and, as she pointed out, the best offered ‘balanced oak, without being so much about the oak itself’.
The panel agreed that Cariñena was the star of the tasting. As the second most-planted grape in the region [with some 540ha compared with Garnacha’s 745ha or so, according to doqpriorat.org], it is unsurprising that the variety featured in a lot of the wines, but it was really exciting to see it dominate the highest-rated; in fact, only three of the top 11 wines (94 points or more) did not include the variety in the blend.
See all 97 wines from the panel tasting
Williams was ‘blown away by Cariñena’ and went on to explain that ‘even Garnacha-based wines with just a bit of Cariñena offered more muscle and grit’.
If the panel had any criticism of the tasting, it was the generally high pricing: the highest-scored wines were the most expensive and, as Williams observed, quality was certainly mapped to cost. The judges felt the prices of these outstanding wines were justified, but it was a shame not to have tasted more wines below the £30 level. Rollan raised concerns about the accessibility of Priorat, noting: ‘Big appellations in other parts of the world offer lower-priced wines as a way into the region – it would be good to see more value.’
It was pleasing to have a selection of vintages to sample, ranging from 2011 to 2021 – and across younger to older vintages, the tasting was of a wonderfully consistent and high quality. Even wines from more complicated vintages such as 2017 were generally good. The panel was impressed with the vibrancy and youthfulness of wines, even after 10 years of ageing, reminding us of the great collectibility and cellaring potential of the region’s wines.
This tasting proved that it is time to take a new trip through the unparalleled terroirs of this vibrant region, to discover new wines from established producers as well as some deserving fresh faces.
Priorat reds panel tasting scores
The wines below all scored 92 points or above
The judges
Beth Willard is involved in sourcing wines for both the on- and off-trade in the UK, with a particular focus on Spain and Eastern Europe. Formerly buying manager at Direct Wines, she is a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain, and a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino.
Diana Rollan is group head of beverage for D&D London restaurants group. A DWWA judge for Spain, she formerly managed training and wine buying at Hakkasan Group as its UK head of wine.
David Williams is a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish. He is also wine correspondent for The Observer, deputy editor of The World of Fine Wine, and a columnist for trade magazine The Wine Merchant.
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100% Garnacha from a small 1.3ha vineyard on steep terraces at 300m altitude, cultivated using biodynamic methods. First produced in 2018, the 2020 was made...
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Syrah grown using organic and biodynamic methods in two vineyards on llicorella and clay soils. The fruit is foot-trodden in 1,000L open vats to allow...
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Clos Figueras, Clos Figueres, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2018
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Clos Mogador, Vinya Classificada, Gratallops, Catalonia, Spain, 2020
Founded in 1979, the 20ha Clos Mogador lies at 350m altitude , surrounded by mountains up to 1,200m. The vines here grow on slate soils...
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Clos Pachem, Pachem, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2019
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Franck Massard, Huellas, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2016
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Franck MassardPriorat
Morlanda, Vi de Guarda Tinto, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2018
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Celler Joan Simó, Tros Nou Vi de Vila Bellmunt, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2018
Milk chocolate, perfumed, thyme, bay leaf... a complex nose indicative of the region and Mediterranean climate. Very ripe and 'international' to start, but there is...
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Torres, Perpetual, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2017
Complex and intense nose with plenty of aromas of dark fruit, dark cherry, blackberry, cassis, violets, dark chocolate and sweet spices. The palate is intense...
2017
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Clos Pachem, Planassos, Gratallops, Catalonia, Spain, 2019
Some animal edge here, but it adds to rather than dominates a nose of mulberry and bloody meat. The palate is silky with well managed...
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Costers del Priorat, Petit Pissarres Tinto, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2020
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Clos Galena, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2017
Creamy mocha and milk chocolate with pure cherry aromas and rose. The palate has lots to offer: chewy but ripe tannins, earthy tones and an...
2017
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Hodgkinson, Mas del Habanero, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2016
Balsamic and floral style, with notes of liquorice, menthol, leather, violets, chocolate, clove and tobacco leaf. Super vibrant and youthful despite six years of age...
2016
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La Conreria d'Scala Dei, Escaladei Vi de Vila, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2017
Deep and intense style, with violets, cassis, rosemary, thyme, and cigar. The palate is densely fruited, grippy and concentrated but with balancing freshness. This will...
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La Conreria d'Scala DeiPriorat
La Perla del Priorat, Clos Les Fites Criança, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2016
Very intense on the nose with obvious Garnacha character, garrigue, red pepper and milk chocolate, the maturing fruit holding up nicely. On the palate present...
2016
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Ritme Celler, Etern, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2018
Intense and concentrated with a touch of mocha, cigar and sweet spices on the nose. Very polished and elegant with ripe tannins, bright acidity and...
2018
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Sangenís i Vaqué, Clos Monlleó, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2012
Earthy and balsamic on the nose, with notes of black cherry, menthol, and liquorice. Fine tannins, well integrated and high quality oak, the wine is...
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Blai Ferré i Just, Desnivell, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2014
Pretty and elegant nose, with notes of potpourri, thyme, rosemary, tapenade and leather. Big and forceful but layered with rosehip and paprika tang and spice...
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Gratavinum, GV5, Gratallops, Catalonia, Spain, 2019
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Celler Joan Simó, Les Eres, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2016
Heady aromas of blueberry, blackberry, lavender and black pepper. Big, bold and muscular, with pronounced oak character but balanced by ripe and juicy tannins and...
2016
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Celler Vall Llach, Mas de la Rosa, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2021
A vibrant blend of smoky notes, dried fruit, figs and mint. Dry and muscular, wth pronounced tannins, with a meaty, herbal and an oaky toasty...
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Scala Dei, Cartoixa, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2018
Intense and savoury, with notes of dried herbs, eucalyptus, sandalwood, liquorice and cranberries. Quite wild on the palate but balanced with silky and ripe tannins...
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Casa Gran Del Siurana, Gran Cruor Selecció Caranyena, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2014
Very classic varietal character with chocolate, blackcurrant and spice. Opulent and muscular, ripe and polished tannins with sweet oaky finish. This is very vibrant for...
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Mas d'en Gil, Coma Vella, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2017
Concentrated nose with ample notes of black fruit, plum, black cherry, cedar, star anise and graphite. Plump but maturing with a touch of warm earthiness,...
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La Conreria d'Scala Dei, Coster del Mario Vi de Paratge Deveses, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2018
Rich and concentrated with notes of black fruit compote, sweet spicy and herbal. This needs time to open up and to develop. Lots of concentration;...
2018
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Ferrer Bobet, Selecció Especial, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2018
Spicy and herbal, purple fruit and black pepper. Big and powerful with concentrated ripe tannins, it’s textured and opulent with lots of energy and a...
2018
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Mas Martinet, Cami Pesseroles, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2018
Spanish cigarettes, smoky and animal black tobacco. On the palate is intense with drying ripe tannins, savoury with dry red fruit, herbal and spicy finish....
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Sandra Doix Celler, MarLa Vi de Paratge Les Salanques, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain, 2019
Creamy and deep, inviting nose with cherry and mulberry, blackberry and earthiness. On the palate is vibrant, big and bold, textured with ripe tannins, savoury...
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