Tasting Quinta do Noval’s single-varietal wines

I originally encountered Quinta do Noval’s Touriga Nacional and Syrah in 2009. The house, famous for its vintage Port, had access to Petit Verdot and Syrah expertise – as well as pedigree cuttings – from sister-label Château Pichon Baron in Bordeaux and former sister-label, Domaine Mas Belles Eaux in the Languedoc.

But making single-varietal wines – let alone from French varieties – subverts convention in the Douro Valley, where wines tend to reflect both the Douro’s traditional field-blend vineyards and the rationale behind them – namely, to blend different grapes for balance, complexity and consistency in a challenging hot, dry climate.

Noval’s single-varietals

First made in 2004, the Touriga Nacional was a happy accident, made from overlooked barrels which delivered an unusually complete wine. Without sacrificing structure (it ages well), it has uncommon detail and fragrance for a variety which tends to excess.

My scepticism about the Syrah, originally released under a second label (Labrador), was swiftly allayed by a palate which showcased the variety through the prism of the Douro’s rocky, wild terroir.

Curiously, Petit Verdot – a later-ripening Bordeaux grape, bud-grafted in 2014 partly from Pichon Baron stock – has been thoroughly precocious. Managing director Christian Seely describes it as ‘a civilised traveller…really adapted to the Douro’ where, with a splash of irrigation, it fully ripens.

Contrastingly, in Bordeaux’s maritime climate, Petit Verdot has never made it into Pichon Baron’s grand vin, let alone flown solo. Indeed, unlike Syrah, it’s rare to find single-varietal Petit Verdot anywhere, making this impressive example well worth seeking out.

Tasting Quinta do Noval’s dry reds:

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