Rioja Report 2025: Reserva & Gran Reserva
They are among the most classic and recognisable of all Rioja wines. And no matter how much changes around them, the reservas and gran reservas will always set a standard.
Many people play and have played the trumpet, but only one of them has ever sounded like Miles Davis. As soon as the first chords of Kind of Blue (Davis’ iconic 1959 record) fill a room, it’s not only the music, but also the man and the era that are immediately recognisable.
This is the same experience that Rioja’s best reservas and gran reservas afford – the wine itself a product of a producer’s identity as much as of regional character and vintage conditions – not so much the zeitgeist; an expressiveness that transcends technical ability and passing trends.
Scroll down for notes and scores of the tasting’s best reserva and gran reserva wines
For it is recognisable, consistent differentiation, matched by quality, that carves the space of a classic. And boy, didn’t Rioja’s classics deliver their difference with impressive transparency?
What makes them stand out – increasingly so – is their unpretentious craftsmanship. Producers have long learned that gimmicks are unnecessary. Usual suspects? Well, yes.
But the fact is that, while tasting them blind, they do stand out, not by being boisterous but simply by being themselves.
There’s a certain ease – call it confidence or class if you wish – with which Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, Prado Enea, Contino, or Remírez de Ganuza’s Reserva uncurl in the glass, showing, and to an extent defining, their parent vintages.
Reference point
Overall, and inevitably, there’s more stylistic consistency in reservas and gran reservas, as producers seek to commit to the expectations for these categories – and to the identity of wines that, in some cases, are in a category of their own.
Ironically, this creates a level playing field that vividly differentiates quality and identity. These wines are a canonical reference point from, or against, which other producers can work.
If Rioja’s new classics are emerging outside the remit of reserva and gran reserva it’s because of, not despite, the strength of these categories and the accumulation of knowledge they represent.
These are the jazz standards that all improvised solos can reference and reinterpret.
It will be interesting to see how, or indeed if, the Burgundy-inspired, geographical Rioja classification pyramid will create a feedback loop and force the ageing-based categorisations to change stylistically.
A process that will, due to the very nature of how the latter are released, require a good few years to draw any conclusions. In the meantime, as this report shows, we can enjoy remarkable outputs from both sides of this ‘philosophical battle’.
Investment and collector markets are slowly but surely taking notice of these exciting developments in Rioja (and for that matter elsewhere in Spain).
It’ll be interesting to see how the fine wine spheres adjust their orbit as flagship Riojas continue to evolve – something we’ll consider closely in reports to come.
Rioja Report 2025: The best reserva & gran reserva wines
Wines are ordered by gran reserva then reserva
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Marques de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2012
Lovely freshness and purity of fruit, with chiselled plum, cherry and blackberry flavours. The tannins are muscular yet juicy with an elegant spicy lining (white...
2012
Marques de MurrietaRioja
Bodegas Muga, Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
A classic gran reserva with an elegant profile and subtle evolution. It still offers delicious raspberry and red berry fruit, slightly jammy but in the...
2016
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Contino, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alavesa, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
From grapes grown on the Finca San Rafael vineyard, which lies in a loop on the northern side of the Ebro river just northwest of...
2019
ContinoRioja
CVNE, Imperial Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2018
Mouthwatering freshness supported by a firm acid verve and chalky tannins hold the core of prune, blackberry and black cherry with strrenth and ease. Powdery...
2018
CVNERioja
CVNE, Viña Real Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alavesa, Northern Spain, Spain, 2017
A wonderfully classic, soft and enticing gran reserva that shows off the potential of this category. It offers spicy notes and red berry fruit with...
2017
CVNERioja
Bodegas Lan, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2017
Good definition of blackberry, plum, red apple and blackcurrant fruit with a saline undercurrent of green olive brine. Pleasant assertivess and wet stone freshness characterise...
2017
Bodegas LanRioja
Bodegas Manzanos, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Oriental, Northern Spain, Spain, 2015
Flavour definition and deft wood and alcohol integration in this gran reserva full of detail and depth. Sappy coating to the ripe yet crunchy dark...
2015
Bodegas ManzanosRioja
Marqués de Riscal, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
A bold gran reserva with obvious but quality oak, chocolate and graphite notes and a stony freshness. It still displays layers of red berry and...
2019
Marqués de RiscalRioja
Bodegas de la Marquesa, Valserrano Gran Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2018
There's a beautiful, refreshing quality to the tannins here, with blood orange and craberry juice drenching the mineral framework. Superb integration of both wood and...
2018
Bodegas de la MarquesaRioja
Castillo de Mendoza, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2018
Elegant, fragrant top notes of violets, rose petals, oregano and sage dominate the nose. The palate echoes this perfumed effortlessnes,s marrying lavender and rosemary to...
2018
Castillo de MendozaRioja
Marqués de Vargas, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2017
Jammy raspberry fruit, sweet ripe tannins and well-managed oak combine to make for a highly drinkable and well-aged gran reserva with potential to age further....
2017
Marqués de VargasRioja
La Rioja Alta, Viña Arana Gran Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2017
Fabulously classic gran reserva with coconut and vanilla sweet oak, match by intense red berry fruits. The tannins are soft and perfectly integrated, and the...
2017
La Rioja AltaRioja
Bodegas Murua, Veguín de Murua Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
Dark berry fruit and warm alcohol drive this wine which also offers peppery spice and grippy but ripe tannins. Oak is present, but it´s well...
2016
Bodegas MuruaRioja
Lecea, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2012
Beautiful layers of black olive tapenade, salty liquorice, poached plum, red apple and pear peel. Broody earthiness plays in the background with a touch of...
2012
LeceaRioja
Bodegas Riojanas, Monte Real Gran Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2009
There's a certain purity and effortlessness to this wine, forcing wood and herbal notes to the foreground, allowing the fruit character (both fresh and dried)...
2009
Bodegas RiojanasRioja
Luis Alegre, Finca La Reñana Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
Very characterful, transparent nose. Pure and driven with finely etched black fruit outlined by juicy, zesty acid. Earthy, savoury notes (black olive, prune, wild oregano)...
2019
Luis AlegreRioja
Beronia, Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2020
95
Beronia is based in Ollauri, Rioja Alta, and sources fruit from more than 900ha of vineyards, all within 10km of its winery on a range of soils including clay-limestone, ferrous clay and alluvial; vines are aged from 20 years to some on pre-phylloxera rootstock dating back more than 100 years. The 2020 Reserva is predominantly Tempranillo and was matured for 18 months in a mix of French and American oak barrels, followed by additional time in third-use French barrels, and then at least 18 months more in the bottle before release. Very pretty raspberry fruit defines this wine, which is very fresh with bright acidity and soft, ripe tannins. Oak is very well integrated and this is an elegant and fine reserva with a chalky lift.
2020
BeroniaRioja
Luis Cañas, Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
Elegant and driven, pairing muscularity with drive and nuance. Fresh pink citrus, pomegranate and cranberry dominate the palate, with energy and detail. The tannins are...
2019
Luis CañasRioja
Miguel Merino, Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
Seductive and enticing oak with attractive smokey bacon and woody spice aromas; this is a very fine and elegant reserva with plenty of red berry...
2019
Miguel MerinoRioja
CVNE, Imperial Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2020
Beautiful nose with lifted herbal notes hovering over the lush black and blue fruit. Tannins are fresh and well presented lending fluidity to the fruit....
2020
CVNERioja
Bodegas Ostatu, Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
This wine jumps from the glass with crunchy black fruit balanced by wet-stone freshness. The palate exchoes this vibrant freshness with mineral tannins, meaty yet...
2019
Bodegas OstatuRioja
La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
A super-classic and great interpretation of Rioja reserva, this offers all the appealing sweet red berry fruit and American oak with serious struture and balance....
2019
La Rioja AltaRioja
Marqués de Riscal, XR Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2021
Classic in style, this has wonderful balsamic, fine-grained oak with fresh red berry fruit and woody spice. It is well balanced and poised with appealing...
2021
Marqués de RiscalRioja
Marqués de Cáceres, Gaudium Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2020
Sourced from numerous plots at 400m-650m in Rioja Alta and on terraces up to 740m in Rioja Alavesa, with old vines more than 70 years...
2020
Marqués de CáceresRioja
Remírez de Ganuza, Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
Very fragrant, overt nose with oregano, thyme, tarragon, sage and curry leaf at the fore. Top notes of sandalwood and violets. Beautifully presented tannins. Red...
2016
Remírez de GanuzaRioja
Roda, Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019
Very recognisable as Rioja reserva, this displays balance and poise with a lovely use of well-integrated, chocolatey and graphite oak. Blueberry fruit on the palate...
2019
RodaRioja
Bodegas Ramón Bilbao, Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2018
Broody, earthy notes create an expressive foreground to the plum, red apple, cherry and fig fruit. Firm and assertive with a robust, savoury structure lined...
2018
Bodegas Ramón BilbaoRioja
Bodegas Altanza, Club Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2016
Expressive yet restrained nose with a distinct herbal character (fennel, asparagus and aniseed), lined with briny saltiness. Intense and focused on the palate with a...
2016
Bodegas AltanzaRioja
Finca Nueva, Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2015
Beautiful briny nose; fresh and lifted, with great definition. There's a balsamic, herbal lining to the cherry, plum and yellow orchard fruit. This is a...
2015
Finca NuevaRioja
Bodegas Santalba, Reserva, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2001
An alluring and seductive wine, combining energy and creaminess. Mocha, milk chocolate, red apple, prune, pink grapefruit, pear peel and pomegranate, woven with soft, unctuous...
2001
Bodegas SantalbaRioja
