Seasonal Ports: 15 of the finest bottles to try this winter
If ever there were a winter season to explore and indulge in the heady satisfactions of the Douro Valley’s fortified delights, then surely it is the end of this year and into 2022.
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There is a Port for all seasons if you know where to look.
When the weather turns cold, there is nowhere like the Douro Valley for capturing the warmth of summer. The slatey schistous soils and drought-resistant grape varieties combine to produce wines that can be wonderfully satisfying in their first flush of youth or transform into something gloriously ethereal with age.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 15 top seasonal Ports
Colder months
Deeper, darker fruit-driven styles tend to be the first choice for the winter months.
Ruby, crusted, late bottled vintage (LBV) and vintage Ports have provided centuries of central heating for adults (with apologies to the Ready Brek advert!).
Warmer months
Tawnies and colheitas are my choice for warmer, even hot days when they can be supremely and sublimely refreshing. These wines – bottled either with an indication of age or the year of harvest (‘colheita’) – are aged in cask until their youthful ruby colour and spicy tannins fall away.
They should be served cellar cool to capitalise on their subtlety and silky smoothness. And they don’t need to be drunk in one go: you can return to an aged tawny over the period of a month or so if the wine is kept cool in the fridge.
Don’t miss out on dry white Port, where the same ageing rules now apply as to tawnies. I am usually too much of a purist to be a fan of wine as a mixer, but an aged dry white Port and tonic has a refreshing biter-sweet twist akin to a low-alcohol Negroni.
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The 15 wines I have selected, are some of my highlights from a year of Port tasting (and drinking) – through spring, summer, autumn and winter alike.
Value
You don’t need to spend a fortune to taste good Port. The wines here range in price from a modest £12 bottle to a lavish £3,900, for a bottle of wine dating from the late 19th century. There is real value to be had in the middle-ranking wines (£15-£35 a bottle): LBVs, crusted and single quinta vintage Ports.
From tasting these wines year after year at the Decanter World Wine Awards, I can assure you that their quality has never been better.
All but one of the wines below are perfect for drinking now, however for anyone with the future to consider (a godchild or grandchild, perhaps), I have included a wine from 2019 – declared as a vintage earlier this year by some shippers (a full write-up of these wines will appear on Decanter Premium).
I thoroughly recommend you dip into all but one of these Ports over Christmas, keeping one or two of the wines back for a very happy New Year in 2022.
Mayson’s sumptuous selection: 15 seasonal Ports to try
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Churchill's, Dry White Port, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal

Churchill were among the first shippers to commercialise a cask aged dry white Port. Made in resolutely traditional style and it shows beautifully in the...
Douro ValleyPortugal
Churchill'sPort
Sandeman, Forty Year Old Tawny, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal

Sandeman are consistent winners across all the tawny categories at the Decanter World Wine Awards. This 40 Year Old with its lovely mid-deep orange-amber colour,...
Douro ValleyPortugal
SandemanPort
Real Companhia Velha, Very Old Tawny, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 1927

This was a spectacular year for Port: undoubtedly one the best of the twentieth century. The 1927 is one of three Colheitas being released to...
1927
Douro ValleyPortugal
Real Companhia VelhaPort
Taylor's, Single Harvest, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 1896

Good things come to those who wait. The last two pipes (casks) of a wine set aside 125 years ago were bottled earlier this...
1896
Douro ValleyPortugal
Taylor'sPort
Quinta do Noval, Colheita, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2007

Declared as a vintage by most shippers including Noval, 2007 was a relatively cool year in the Douro with wines characterised by their purity of...
2007
Douro ValleyPortugal
Quinta do NovalPort
Quinta do Noval, Vintage Port, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2019

A late release, on sale this Christmas, from the mostly recently declared year for Vintage Port. Deep opaque inky black hue; tight knit and unyielding...
2019
Douro ValleyPortugal
Quinta do NovalPort
Graham's, Vintage Port, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 1985

Probably the best wine from a good, ripe though rather variable vintage: still deep at the centre with a thin tawny rim; lovely ripe plummy...
1985
Douro ValleyPortugal
Graham'sPort
Kopke, 10 Year Old Tawny, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal

Kopke is the oldest of all the Port wine houses having been established in 1638. They produce outstanding tawnies (and aged whites) at all levels,...
Douro ValleyPortugal
KopkePort
Quinta da Côrte, 20 Year Old Tawny, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal

This beautiful estate in the Torto valley used to supply Delaforce with sumptuous tawnies. It is is now out on its own (under French ownership)...
Douro ValleyPortugal
Quinta da CôrtePort
Ramos Pinto, Late Bottled Vintage, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015

A Gold Medal winner at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards, this LBV stands out from a large crowd. Mostly Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca...
2015
Douro ValleyPortugal
Ramos PintoPort
Sandeman, Imperial Reserve, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal

The ‘Reserve Tawny’ category is a hard one to interpret but with large stocks of cask-aged wines to draw on, Sandeman have got this one...
Douro ValleyPortugal
SandemanPort
Warre's, Quinta da Cavadinha, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2005

The altitude of this property in the upper /mid-Pinhão valley (a tributary of the Douro) stands it in good stead in a hot year...
2005
Douro ValleyPortugal
Warre'sPort
Taylor's, Quinta de Vargellas, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2008

Vargellas is Taylor’s flagship estate and provides the backbone for their outstanding Vintage Ports. 2008 was not declared as a vintage but this small harvest...
2008
Douro ValleyPortugal
Taylor'sPort
Fonseca, Crusted (bottled May 2015), Port, Douro Valley, Portugal

Crusted Port is a well-priced substitute for Vintage. Blended from a number of years, the wine is bottled without filtration so it throws a sediment...
Douro ValleyPortugal
FonsecaPort
Graham's, Six Grapes Reserve, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal

This is a supremely good Reserve Ruby Port. It is never the cheapest in the category but consistently outperforms. Aged for two years in...
Douro ValleyPortugal
Graham'sPort

Richard Mayson began his career working for The Wine Society, winning the Vintner’s Company Scholarship in 1987 during his time there. Now specialising in the wines of Iberia, especially fortified wines, he owns a vineyard and produces wine in the Alto Alentejo, Portugal, and is the author of four books, including The Wines and Vineyards of Portugal (winner of the André Simon Award 2003) and Port and the Douro. Mayson writes regularly for Decanter and The World of Fine Wine, contributes to the Oxford Companion to Wine and lectures for the WSET diploma and Leith's School of Food and Wine in London. In 1999, he was made a Cavaleiro of the Confraria do Vinho do Porto in recognition of his services to the Port wine trade, and he was an associate editor of Oz Clarke’s Wine Atlas. Mayson runs his own website for fortified wine enthusiasts, portandmadeirapages.com, is currently writing a book on the wines of Madeira.