Spanish Icons: Vega Sicilia, Unico
Ines Salpico continues her countdown of great Spanish wines with one of the country's most famous icons, Vega Sicilia's Unico.
Vega Sicilia, Unico, Ribera del Duero
First vintage: 1915
The fact that Vega Sicila became, in 2024, the first Spanish winery to lead Liv-ex’s Power 100 ranking is mostly due to the enduring and increasing investment appeal of its flagship wine, Unico (Spanish for ‘unique’).
With origins dating back to 1864, Vega Sicilia was founded by Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves, who brought cuttings from Bordeaux to add to the local Tinto Fino (Tempranillo).
The blending of the indigenous and imported grapes has since become the estate’s signature.
Scroll down for the vintage of Vega Sicilia Unico to try before you die
Vega Sicilia affirmed its reputation as one of the first Spanish fine wine producers in the early 20th century, under the ownership of Antonio Herrero. The Alvarez family purchased the estate in 1982 – the same year DO Ribera del Duero was created – and a new phase of expansion and brand-building began.
Gonzalo Iturriaga, technical director at Tempos Vega Sicilia (the umbrella under which the Ribera del Duero-based group manages its projects in Spain and beyond), points out that Unico, like all of Vega Sicilia’s wines, is released when it’s ready to drink – which explains why vintage releases don’t follow chronological order.
The masterful delivery of drinkability married to power, upon release, makes Unico stand out among its peers. Iturriaga has overseen production of all the group’s wines since 2015, following the departure of Xavier Ausàs. The latter, in turn, replaced the renowned Mariano Garcia, who produced his first vintage at Vega Sicilia in 1968.
That only three winemakers have overseen the production of Unico over more than half a century helps to explain both the consistency of the wine and strength of the brand.
‘When one arrives at a place like [Vega Sicilia], it’s important to be very respectful of the history, philosophy and style of the wine… We are lucky to work in a winery where we don’t need to follow trends and can remain faithful to our style.’
Although Unico remains a blend of Tinto Fino with a lesser, varying percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for at least 10 years, there have been stylistic changes.
‘In the last couple of decades, we’ve reduced the impact of wood – ageing more in foudres and less in barrique – in search of better textural definition and greater complexity,’ Iturria explains. The best, it seems, may be yet to come.
The wine to try before you die
Vega Sicilia, Unico, Ribera del Duero 2014 – 97pts
£258.33 (ib)-£453 Berry Bros & Rudd, Burnett & Herbert, Christopher Keiller, Corney & Barrow, Farr Vintners, Hic, Humble Grape, Ideal Wine Co, KWM, Laithwaites, Millésima, Petersham Cellar, Roberson, Tanners, The Oxford Wine Co, Waud Wines US$600-$700 Widely available
94% Tempranillo and 6 % Cabernet Sauvignon grown at 700m-900m; bottled in June 2020 following maturation in two stages, first in 225L French and American oak barrels, then in 22,000L wooden vats. Showing appealing roundness and approachability, with soft, ripe strawberry, red cherry and plum lined with black pepper and nutmeg.
No rush to drink it though, as there’s great vividness to the fruit, with a refreshing acid streak and assertive, sculpted tannins. Seductive floral and herbal nuances – violets and dried oregano – hover and linger.
Drink: 2025-2050 Alcohol: 14%
Spanish Icons: Vega Sicilia, Unico
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Vega Sicilia, Único, Ribera del Duero, Northern Spain, Spain, 2014
Showing appealing roundness and approachability, with soft, ripe strawberry, red cherry and plum lined with black pepper and nutmeg. No rush to drink it though,...
2014
Vega SiciliaRibera del Duero
