Spotlight on Soave: 20 top buys worth seeking out

To ‘know your label’ has never been sounder advice than it is in the case of Soave. This northern Italian classic white has many facets, and the best guide is the system of denominations which distinguishes styles and places of origin.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 top Soave buys

The first distinction to make is between DOC and DOCG versions of Verona’s native white.

The DOC is certainly the most familiar. Typically (but not necessarily) unoaked, this is where you find the canonical citrus and almond character in a light, dry, zingy wine which flows over the palate with seductive moreishness.

It’s a style that fell a little out of favour in the past, perceived as overly simple, but it is currently reasserting itself with a new generation of winemakers.

DOC Soave can’t be beaten for pure pleasure, and its apparent simplicity can be deceptive: a bottle forgotten at the back of the cellar for a few years can reveal intriguing complexity of aroma and a perfectly intact palate.

The DOCG is reserved for the Superiore category. In this case, production terms impose lower yields, resulting in wines of increased concentration and higher alcohols. Generally (but not always) oaked and aged for longer, this is Soave with greater richness of texture and a complexity that may come from later-harvested grapes. Think more tropical fruit than citrus

Origin matters

The other important variable is zone of origin.

Soave Classico is from the historic production area in the hills behind the towns of Monteforte d’Alpone and Soave; the zone’s borders were first delimited in 1931. Soave tout court comes from larger and predominantly flat areas to the east and the west of the central hills. A third denomination, Soave di Colli Scaligeri, less frequently seen but decidedly worthy of note, relates to hills detached from the Classico area.

The common perception is that the best wines come from the Classico DOC, but this is a generalisation that does not necessarily reflect the reality of Soave’s patchwork of terroirs. The most recent refinement to the labelling system attempts to make sense of this complexity by identifying sites with specific characteristics known as Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive across all three denominations.

Officially introduced in 2019, there are 33 of these UGAs, which include recognised sub-zone denominations that were in use prior to the new legislation.

Some, such as Fittà, Foscarino and Froscà, are more familiar, while others such as Croce, Pigno and the enticingly named Paradiso are not exactly household names, but highlight how the Garganega grape responds to climate and, above all, soils. Wines from higher, cooler sites have a crisp intensity; those from lower slopes, more roundness.

Volcanic soils give wines with a whiff of smokiness and an unmistakable tangy quality; those from calcareous areas have more mouthfeel and more fruit than mineral character.

It would take a certain amount of dedication to assimilate all the information contained in the Soave regional consorzio’s excellent documentation of the UGAs, but the evidence in the glass is that they add a meaningful new dimension to the appreciation of a wine whose character is perhaps too often taken for granted.

Richard Baudains’ top 20 Soave buys

See also

Discovering Italy’s high-altitude wines plus 12 worth seeking out

Tuscany’s best recent vintages plus the top wines to try

Versatility of Vermentino: top dry white picks from across Italy