The star producers from Sancerre and the Centre-Loire you need to know about

Climate change has taught winemakers everywhere to expect the unexpected, but in a marginal climate such as the Loire Valley, every year seems to bring fresh challenges.

In this changing and demanding environment, the art of the vigneron has never been more crucial.

Many of the wines featured in this report of the 2024 and 2023 vintages are made by the tried and trusted producers who, through experience and expertise, manage to craft wonderful wines year in, year out.

Here are some of the newer names to watch.

Scroll down to see the wines to buy from these Centre-Loire stars

Marius Tabordet – Domaine Tabordet, Pouilly-Fumé

Marius Tabordet is the latest to take the helm of this family domaine, founded in the 1960s by his grandfather. He has steadfastly led the charge towards a more natural approach, both in the vineyard (now certified biodynamic) and the winery, where he indulges his creativity by ageing wines in stainless steel, amphorae and oak vats, sometimes without sulphur.

He aims to keep his wines ageing on lees for as long as possible. Marius is at the forefront of initiatives to foster more biodiversity across the region. His wines are models of purity and elegance.

Jean-Philippe Agisson – Domaine S et JP Agisson, Sancerre

Jean-Philippe Agisson worked under Alphonse Mellot for more than a decade before crossing the river to Domaine Didier Dagueneau, where he is currently chief winemaker.

In his spare time, Jean-Philippe has created his own bijou domaine in Sancerre, where he crafts exceptional wines in tiny quantities.

These are understated, refined beauties that are well worth seeking out.

Thibault Denizot – Domaine Denizot, Sancerre

Thibault Denizot is a difficult man to pin down. He’s usually to be found in one of his vineyards. ‘Pruning is his passion,’ says his wife Jennifer, ‘He spends eight hours a day doing this and is very particular about how his vines are pruned.’

Thibault joined the family domaine in 2005, working solely in the vineyards, where he quickly stopped using chemicals. At this time all the fruit was sold to a négociant.

In 2016, he and Jennifer took over and began making their own wine, since when the domaine has gone from strength to strength.

Unsurprisingly, the focus is still very much on the vineyard, now worked organically and biodynamically, and harvested by hand.

Antoine Gouffier – Domaine du Bouchot, Pouilly-Fumé

Pouilly-sur-Loire seems just too quiet for the ebullient Antoine Gouffier, who left home to travel the world and ended up working as a winemaker in South Africa for six years. But he returned home in 2018 to buy Domaine du Bouchot, one of the few organic estates in the appellation and the first to be certified.

He has since converted the 10ha of vineyards to biodynamics (from the 2023 vintage) and produces three bright and textured site-specific cuvées of Pouilly-Fumé, a Pouilly-sur-Loire Chasselas, and an orange wine.

There is doubtless more to come from this energetic young winemaker.

Joseph de Maistre – Domaine de Reuilly & Prieuré de Saint-Céols, Reuilly & Menetou-Salon

Joseph de Maistre grew up in the Centre-Loire area, but was not born into a winegrowing family. He was inspired to study winemaking by his grandfather, a Cognac producer.

After training in France and South Africa he returned home to establish his own business in 2020 with his wife, Marie. Here they manage two domaines, one in Reuilly and the other in Menetou-Salon.

Domaine de Reuilly, formerly owned by Denis Jamain, was converted to biodynamics as long ago as 2011. The new owners have been careful to ensure the continuation of quality wines at the domaine, including whites from Sauvignon, reds from Pinot Noir, and the deliciously unique Reuilly vin gris from Pinot Gris.

The Prieuré de Saint-Céols in Menetou-Salon has a history dating back to 1190. Today’s wines are fresh, modern and good value.

Wines from the Centre-Loire’s rising stars:

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