Top 40 Piedmont reds beyond Nebbiolo
For everyday drinking like the Piedmontese do it, Stephen Brook picks his favourites from a line-up of 112 of the less-famous local labels – here are the 40 he rated 90 points or more...
It was once estimated that half the plantings in Piedmont were of Barbera, and I dare say it’s still true today. It’s a workhouse variety, but in the best sense. Its lively acidity makes it a suitable match for many Piedmontese dishes, and along with Dolcetto, it is the region’s house wine.
So it wasn’t really surprising that Barbera dominated this tasting. It’s planted throughout the region, and plays a part in many blends. Moreover, some decades ago certain producers found it responded well to then-fashionable barrique-ageing as well as traditional ageing in large casks. There’s considerable controversy about this oaked style, but it remains popular, and when the oak is well handled, it can produce a complex and satisfying wine.
Scroll down for Stephen Brook’s top 40 Piedmont reds outside Nebbiolo
There is also debate about whether Barbera d’Alba is a more successful wine than Barbera d’Asti. In the Alba zone the prime sites are reserved for Nebbiolo vines, so Barbera may not be planted in ideal locations, though assumptions about perfect locations are now being revised as a consequence of global warming. In Asti, in contrast, Barbera is king, grown in prime sites.
In practice, both regions make outstanding Barbera. There is also a ‘Superiore’ category which requires wood-ageing and minimum alcohol levels, but these are easily attained by Barbera anyway, so it seems to serve little purpose. In practice it tends to be reserved for more traditional styles – but not necessarily!
The problem in this tasting was not so much stylistic – no dogma need be applied to Barbera – as balance. Many recent vintages have been exceedingly hot, leading to overripe fruit and very high alcohols. Whether this is simply a consequence of torrid summers or it’s in part a conscious decision to make this style is open to question. The new Nizza DOCG (from 2014) is a super-charged Barbera d’Asti, cropped at lower yields and aged longer. Some wines are effortful but the best are excellent.
There was a good selection of Dolcetto wines too. Not surprisingly the Dogliani DOCG showed well. This really is the sweet-spot for Dolcetto and many excellent growers farm its 600ha. Dolcetto d’Alba was also successful, but there was less excitement – and few offerings – from the Diano d’Alba DOCG, which hopes to rival Dogliani in quality. Like Barbera, Dolcetto can be made in so many different styles: light and simple, denser and more structured, and even oak-aged. The middle path usually works best.
Piedmont is home to some eccentric grapes too. Freisa used to be a frizzante, but today it’s taken more seriously, and although its profile is elusive, there are some good wines with floral aromas and punchy fruit. Grignolino and Ruchè, both ethereally red-fruited though often high in alcohol, are an acquired taste, but can display fragrance and charm. It’s hard to say the same for Albarossa, a 1938 crossing of Barbera and the obscure French variety Chatus. Some top estates have planted it, but its dark, tannic chewiness is hard to love.
Surprisingly, there were very few wines in this tasting from the Colline Novaresi in northeast Piedmont. It’s a cluster of small appellations like Ghemme, Gattinara and Boca, but the best wines – usually a blend of Nebbiolo with Croatina and/or Vespolina – are delicious. Moreover, outsiders such as Paolo de Marchi from Chianti and Roberto Conterno from Monforte, Barolo, have bought properties here, so it is decidedly fashionable. It would have been good to have had the opportunity to assess more wines from here.
Nonetheless the tasting demonstrated the diversity of grape varieties and styles encountered these days in Piedmont, and the white wines – Arneis, Nascetta, Timorasso for a start – are becoming exciting too.
Stephen Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and is our DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont.
See Stephen Brook’s top 40 Piedmont reds outside Nebbiolo
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Olim Bauda, Barbera d'Asti, Superiore Nizza, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Sweet, juicy blackberry and cherry compote nose. Quite rich and sleek on the palate, with light acidity that brings some finesse. Spicy and well balanced,...
2015
Olim BaudaBarbera d'Asti
Boroli, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Opulent blackberry and blackcurrant nose, with luxurious fruit, not too much oak in evidence. Rich but bright, with mocha tones as well as black fruits;...
2016
BoroliBarbera d'Alba
Palladino, Bricco delle Olive, Barbera d'Alba, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Ample toasty oak on the nose, but it’s stylish and well handled, and the dark fruits come through. The attack is gracefully textured, and this...
2016
PalladinoBarbera d'Alba
Tenuta Garetto, Favà, Barbera d'Asti, Superiore Nizza, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Smoky, polished black-fruit nose, with some vanilla from the oak – stylish and poised. Very ripe and intense, with fine acidity, taut and pungent, a...
2016
Tenuta GarettoBarbera d'Asti
Vite Colte, La Luna e I Falò, Barbera d'Asti, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
<p>Very ripe, toasty nose, smoky blackberry fruit. Rich and generous, this has excellent fruit and concentration. The oak tannins give structure and there’s sufficient acidity...
2017
Vite ColteBarbera d'Asti
Alemat, Augusta, Barbera d'Asti, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Rich, imposing nose, with black cherry fruit and Indian spices. The attack is supple but quite concentrated and fleshy, with plenty of grip on the...
2015
AlematBarbera d'Asti
Castello Del Poggio, Barbera d'Asti, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Delicate and poised red fruits on the nose, showing clarity of fruit. Sleek attack, nicely textured and silky, but has concentrated fruit too, balanced by...
2016
Castello Del PoggioBarbera d'Asti
Pelassa, San Pancrazio, Barbera d'Alba, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Lush black cherry nose, with abundant fruit and just a hint of charred oak. The palate is sleek and stylish, with admirable acidity that brings...
2016
PelassaBarbera d'Alba
Michele Chiarlo, La Court Riserva, Barbera d'Asti, Superiore Nizza, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
The sweet, stylish raspberry nose has finesse. Quite rich, veined with fine acidity, this has pungency and drive. Still youthful and not fully harmonious, with...
2015
Michele ChiarloBarbera d'Asti
Morra Stefanino, Castellinaldo, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Toasty but elegant black fruits on the nose, and showing some vibrancy. There’s a fine attack, and vivid blackberry fruit that’s admirably concentrated without being...
2016
Morra StefaninoBarbera d'Alba
Pio Cesare, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Rich, oaky black fruit nose: blackberries, power and force. Broad and fleshy, this has weight and shoulders, with oak tannins and just enough acidity to...
2017
Pio CesareBarbera d'Alba
Renato Ratti, Battaglione, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Lush oaky black-cherry nose, splendid fruit and no cooked character. Rich, juicy, full-bodied, succulent with good depth. Has appealing spiciness, and the oak adds nuance...
2017
Renato RattiBarbera d'Alba
Borgogno, Freisa, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Aromatic and floral nose, heady with aromas of cherries and coffee. Rich and suave, this is rounded and harmonious, with fine concentration of fruit, mild...
2016
BorgognoLanghe
Bruno Rocca, Barbera d'Asti, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Stylish blackberry nose with some oak. Rich and fleshy, this has ample fruit and succulence, and enough bright acidity to give a fairly long finish....
2017
Bruno RoccaBarbera d'Asti
Cagliero, Barbera d'Alba, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Blunt, inky and savoury nose, with some aromatic force. Rich, dense and juicy, very concentrated and oaky, but has an imposing weight. Perhaps a touch...
2015
CaglieroBarbera d'Alba
Cascina Bricco Rosso, Dogliani, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Bright if toasty, savoury black fruit nose; lively. Rich and succulent, this is full of fruit, finely tuned by some well-judged tannins. This has quite...
2017
Cascina Bricco RossoDogliani
Cossetti, La Vigna Vecchia, Barbera d'Asti, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
<p>A firm ‘toastiness’ on the nose, and black cherry fruit with a savoury tone. Quite rich and svelte, luxurious but elegant, with ample acidity if...
2016
CossettiBarbera d'Asti
Giacomo Fenocchio, Freisa, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Bracing but ripe sour cherry and cranberry nose, moderated by a light toastiness. There’s richness and weight here, with fine concentration, slightly dusty tannins, and...
2017
Giacomo FenocchioLanghe
Marchesi di Barolo, Peiragal, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
<p>Opulent, toasty blackberry nose; quite powerful. Generously fruity, with a velvety texture, this has power, weight and succulence. The acidity is modest for Barbera but...
2017
Marchesi di BaroloBarbera d'Alba
Clavesana, Dogliani, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Sweet, ripe black cherry nose, fragrant and poised. Medium-bodied but graceful and balanced, with some light tannic grip, but not to excess. Quite concentrated, with...
2017
ClavesanaDogliani
Cantine Sant'Agata, Pro Nobis, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Robust sour cherry nose that’s given nuance by some time in oak. Rich and sleek, this is ripe and rounded with ample concentration and no...
2016
Cantine Sant'AgataRuché di Castagnole Monferrato
Cascina in Langa, Amalia, Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Rich damson nose with some opulence and a winning grape character. Soft and tender, with that Dolcetto plushness, quite concentrated and has some tannic structure....
2017
Cascina in LangaDolcetto d'Alba
Elio Grasso, Dei Grassi, Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
<p>Very ripe, plummy nose but there are no baked tones from this hot vintage. Rich and generous, juicy and succulent, with a light chewiness to...
2017
Elio GrassoDolcetto d'Alba
La Vedetta, Sarasino, Barbera d'Asti, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Firm blackberry nose with some discreet oak. The attack is brisk and lively, and there are some limpid red as well as black fruits here....
2017
La VedettaBarbera d'Asti
Agricola Gian Piero Marrone, Carlot, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Despite the high alcohol, this is lean and spicy on the nose, with cranberry as well as cherry aromas – refreshing after so many beefy,...
2017
Agricola Gian Piero MarroneBarbera d'Alba
Negretti, Barbera d'Alba, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Lush, savoury nose, with aromas of cherries and red fruits. Rich but not too dense, has some limpidity and freshness, with zesty acidity that brings...
2016
NegrettiBarbera d'Alba
Rizieri, Barbera d'Alba, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Rich, saucy, toasty nose with blackberry and clove notes. Ripe and juicy, this has enough brightness of fruit on the palate to counter the high...
2016
RizieriBarbera d'Alba
Canato Marco, Primo Canato, Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese, Piedmont, Italy, 2015
Perfumed cherry nose, has charm. Sleek attack, but has ample underlying tannin. Concentrated and spicy, with a bracing sour-plum finish. Persistent and while not exactly...
2015
Canato MarcoGrignolino del Monferrato Casalese
Ciabot Berton, Fisetta, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Sumptuous but slightly overripe black cherry fruit on the nose. Rich and broad, it’s a fleshy style showing ample black fruits. Tannic for Barbera, which...
2017
Ciabot BertonBarbera d'Alba
Demarie, Barbera d'Alba, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Sweet and slightly jammy nose of cherries and blackberries. Quite rich but marked by unusual acidity for 2017, tangy red fruits bringing freshness and flair....
2017
DemarieBarbera d'Alba
Fratelli Antonio & Raimondo, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Rich, spicy black-fruit nose with notes of clove and vanilla. Very rich and dense, this is somewhat overbearing, with a good dose of oak behind...
2017
Fratelli Antonio & RaimondoBarbera d'Alba
La Carlina, Barbera d'Alba, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Subdued cherry nose. Fresh attack, quite lively and alert, with stylish red fruits and some piquant acidity. Not a profound wine perhaps, but it’s balanced...
2016
La CarlinaBarbera d'Alba
Marchesi di Barolo, Ruvei, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Rich, smoky blackberry nose. Rich, plump, and rounded on the palate, without being heavy-handed, this has succulence and concentration. Spicy and well balanced, with perky...
2017
Marchesi di BaroloBarbera d'Alba
Marengo Mauro, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Very oaky on the nose yet the ripe black fruits still shine through. Savoury and minty too. Fresh attack, concentrated and lively, with ample acidity...
2016
Marengo MauroBarbera d'Alba
Massolino, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2018
Rich, spicy, cherry aromas on the nose; perky and invigorating. A good brisk attack on the palate that’s quite concentrated, with surprising density of fruit...
2018
MassolinoBarbera d'Alba
Rinaldi Vini, Val Purcì, Barbera d'Asti, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Indian spices as well as black cherries on the nose. Fine acidity on the attack, so this is zesty and lively, with a red-fruited piquancy....
2017
Rinaldi ViniBarbera d'Asti
Rivetto, Zio Nando, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Lively black fruits leap from the glass. The attack is discreet and fresh, there’s a nimble acidity, and surprising tannins that probably derive from oak....
2016
RivettoBarbera d'Alba
Rovellotti, Morenico, Colline Novaresi, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
Vivid nose, raspberry aromas. Although a blend of three tannic varieties – Nebbiolo with Vespolina and Uva Rara – this has surprising juiciness and heft,...
2017
RovellottiColline Novaresi
Neirano, Barbera d'Asti, Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, 2017
A lean, tangy raspberry and cranberry nose that’s perfumed and floral. Fresh and brisk on the palate, this has limpidity and drive. Not a complex...
2017
NeiranoBarbera d'Asti
Valdibà, Cin, Dogliani, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Sweet, juicy blackberry and cherry compote nose. Quite rich and sleek on the palate, with light acidity that brings some finesse. Spicy and well balanced,...
2016
ValdibàDogliani
