PREMIUM

Reimagining Barbera

In the right hands, Piedmont’s most planted red variety can be a serious contender, finds Tom Hyland...

Barbera is the perfect match for simple foods at Piedmont trattoria or osteria, but it’s not just the restaurant-going locals that have overlooked this grape – leading vintners in the region have regularly disparaged it too.

Early in his career, Luca Currado, winemaker at Vietti, remembers his father telling him that Barbera was a good way of honing his skills, as few would even notice if he spoiled what was considered a lowly table wine. ‘Work on Barbera, so you can ruin your first wine,’ he quipped, only half-joking.

 


See Tom Hyland’s top 10 quality Barberas from Piedmont


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