To help you celebrate birthday and anniversaries with vintage flavour in 2025, I have plumbed the depths of my (less than) extensive cellar to bring liquid enlightenment for readers looking for vinous gifts.
At the same time, I have drawn on the inspiration and experience of a small ‘advisory’ panel of experts and wine loving friends (mentioned below) who have decanted their finest in helping me, and more importantly you, to achieve vinous nirvana.
The good news is that there are some excellent anniversary vintages to draw on in 2025, so I hope that inspiration will start here.
Broadly speaking, I would look to Bordeaux, with Burgundy well-represented in the 2005, 1995 and 1985 vintages and Champagne in 2004, plus a handful of delicious curveballs.
It goes without saying, but I’ll say it anyway, that the more mature the wine, the more caveat emptor applies, and, when in doubt, look for mature fortified wines.
Tasting notes and scores for Anthony’s anniversary wines drawn from the Decanter database are listed below
2005
We can confidently start with Bordeaux, where one could make a strong case for 2005 being the vintage of the noughties as it hits the 20 year mark.
Having just prised open a case or two bought en primeur, I can vouch for the excellence of Château Lynch-Bages and Château Calon-Ségur, still with a long life ahead.
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For relative value, check out second wines, like La Croix de Ducru-Beaucaillou and Réserve de la Comtesse.
My red Burgundies are sadly more depleted, but Domaine Roumier’s ‘Clos de La Bussière’, Domaine de la Vougeraie’s Bonnes Mares, Domaine Fourrier’s Gevrey ‘Les Champeaux’ and Domaine de Montille’s Volnay ‘Les Taillepieds’ have all been superb.
From Spain, Roda 1 Reserva is a stylish, modern Rioja, perfectly mature now, yet elegantly balanced.
Germany in 2005, says writer Stuart Pigott, is probably the best vintage since 1949 for classic Riesling Spätlese and Auslese with aromatic, rich and complex wines across the Mosel, Rheingau and Nahe.
Meanwhile, 2005 was the maiden vintage for Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh white blend, which illustrated the promise of the Pessac-Léognan blanc style in South Africa.
And in Jerez, González Byass released a remarkable Palo Cortado selected for Gerard Basset’s foundation: still intensely aromatic with notes of walnuts, almonds, orange peel and cedar.
2004
(Image credit: Champagne Ayala)
The 2004 vintage was underrated in Bordeaux and many wines are now beginning to drink well.
Veteran wine merchant Roy Richards loves Château Pichon Lalande and Château Haut-Bailly from this vintage.
Bordeaux expert Michael Schuster has been enjoying châteaux Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Léoville-Las Cases, Mouton-Rothschild, L’Évangile and Vieux Château Certan (note to self: must visit the Schusters soon).
It was a great vintage in Rioja and, like its 2005 counterpart, the Roda 1 Reserva is beautifully scented with smoky, truffle notes and remarkable balance.
Famed Italian oenologist Alberto Antonini is a fan of the 2004 vintage in Barolo and Brunello, singling out Bartolo Mascarello’s Barolo as a vibrant red full of rose petals, truffle, and black cherries.
Polish wine writer Wojciech Bońkowski MW is also a big fan of the vintage, notably Marchesi di Grésy Camp Gros and Produttori’s Pajè Barbaresco. In Barolo, recent favourites have included: Elvio Cogno’s Vigna Elena, Ettore Germano’s Riserva Lazzarito, and Roberto Voerzio’s uber-impressive Fossati Case Nere Riserva 10 Anni.
My own favourite 2004s are, by a long chalk (as it were), Champagne. From this Indian summer vintage, my highlights include the gorgeous 2004 Billecart-Salmon Louis Salmon Blanc de Blancs, Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires, Bruno Paillard Nec Plus Ultra and Pommery Les Clos Pompadour, the latter in magnum.
Outside Champagne, Tasmania’s Arras Museum Release Blanc de Blancs 2004 is a stunner.
2000
Cometh the commercial opportunity, cometh the vintage of the century in Bordeaux (or the first one at least).
Michael Schuster found the likes of Châteaux Chasse Spleen, Lagrange, Ducru-Beaucaillou, Lynch-Bages (‘an absolute star’), and Les Forts de Latour in fine fettle.
In Burgundy, ‘the whites were lovely and well balanced, he adds.
2000 was a warm, dry year in Italy. G. D. Vajra’s Barolo Bricco delle Viole, Sottimano’s single-vineyard Barbarescos, and Roberto Voerzio’s Barolos, not forgetting Tignanello, Fèlsina Rancia and Cepparello, the latter ‘intense and elegant with aromas of wild berries, red cherry, and a touch of rosemary’, are all standouts.
Tokaj 2000 delivered a series of beguiling Aszú sweet wines, including Királyudvar’s and Oremus’s 6 Puttonyos.
It’s an outstanding year for Vintage Ports, even from relatively low-profile houses such as (at that time) Cockburn’s, Niepoort and Churchill’s, while Quinta do Vesúvio, Graham’s, and Warre’s are sumptuous.
Henriques & Henriques Single Harvest Bual is a model of fragrant and caramel rich Madeira.
I recently drank a 2000 Felton Road Block 3 Pinot Noir and it was magnificent. Anyone with that in their cellar is very lucky indeed.
1995
1995 was much hyped in both Bordeaux and Burgundy. Some believe it has still to show some charm (if ever), others that there is at least some fine claret such as châteaux Montrose, Pichon Lalande, Ducru-Beaucaillou and Lynch-Bages.
In the Rhône, Château de Beaucastel is going strong, especially the Mourvèdre-dominant Hommage à Jacques Perrin, if you can find it.
Thanks to the racy acidity of the year, Riesling Spätlese and Auslese in the Nahe and Mosel shine.
The maiden vintage of the Cabernet Franc-driven Cordoba Crescendo from Stellenbosch was classic, and still very much alive and sought-after.
This was one of the rare vintages of the revived Charles Heidsieck Champagne Charlie cuvée, which I was lucky enough to taste when I visited Charles Heidsieck. It’s a simply miraculous Champagne.
The seriously old tawny Ports really start to come into their own when they hit 30. Taylor’s 30 Year Old Tawny is no exception: a caramel nuttiness, rich and concentrated almost crystallised apricot flavours and savoury, beautifully balanced finish.
1985
Chapelle Saint-Christophe on Hermitage hill.
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)
Roy Richards recalls Lafarge’s Volnay, Clos des Chênes as the wine of the vintage in Burgundy, but it is an increasingly rare and expensive vintage to find.
It was a good Bordeaux vintage with enthusiasm for Léoville-Las Cases and Pichon Lalande, L’Évangile and La Conseillante, ‘better than any Petrus I’ve had’ says a spoiled Michael Fridjhon.
From the Rhône, Paul Jaboulet Ainé’s Hermitage La Chapelle is still excellent.
It was an impressive vintage for Mosel Riesling, viz. a recent Selbach-Oster Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese.
In Italy, exceptional ripening conditions ensured longevity in Fèlsina’s Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia and Super Tuscan Fontalloro, not forgetting Biondi-Santi’s Brunello di Montalcino, with its refined notes of cherry, dried flowers and leather nuances.
Volatile acidity marred some Vintage Ports but Taylor’s and Fonseca are undeniable greats, along with colheita Ports Kopke and Krohn.
1975
Bordeaux in this vintage is ‘pleasantly old-fashioned’, says Michael Schuster, who likes Yquem and Climens in Sauternes.
But among the panel’s suggestions for reds are; a ‘baroque’ Château Latour, La Mission Haut-Brion (the best since 1961), the fabulous Haut-Brion, and a Vieux Château Certan, so divine that it was ordered by Pope John-Paul II for the Vatican.
It’s a vintage with good ageing potential in Tuscany, with Costanti’s Brunello di Montalcino still in good condition.
In Germany, Stuart Pigott says that Fritz Haag’s Barauneberger Juffer Auslese Gold Cap is one of the greatest Mosel Rieslings.
In South Africa, the 1975 Nederburg Auction Cabernet is very much alive.
Meanwhile Taylor’s 50 Year Old Golden Age Tawny Port is a hedonist’s dream, full of prune, quince, raisin and citrus zest freshness.
1965 and beyond
The less said about 1965 the better. A disaster in France and in the Mosel – where the grapes had to have the snow knocked off them before going into the press.
However, 1955 was a superbly elegant Bordeaux vintage with highlights in the shape of Domaine de Chevalier, Vieux Château Certan, Cos d’Estournel, La Gaffelière, Pape Clément and Haut-Brion.
Martinez and Fonseca’s Guimaraens are good Vintage Ports from this era.
Going back even further, the 1935 was a great Port vintage, of which Fonseca may well be the greatest.
Taylor’s VVOP is the latest in a series of limited releases of fine and rare Ports from its very old cask-aged reserves, quietly concentrating to a magical quintessence since before the Second World War.
For any vintage celebration, anniversary or birthday from 2005 back to 1925, I doubt there’s a better gift than Taylor’s Century of Port, a mixed case gift pack of four tawny Ports featuring four different 37.5cl bottles of 10, 20, 30 and 40 year old tawny, adding up, if my maths serves me right, to 100 years of tawny-tude.
With thanks to my expert panel: Stuart Pigott, Roy Richards. Michael & Monika Schuster, Alberto Antonini, Angela Lloyd, Michael Fridjhon, Wojciech Bońkowski MW, Victoria and Mauricio González Gordon, Anna Woodbridge, Tom Burchfield at Liv-ex.
Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, 2005
My wines
As we have to expect from Lynch Bages, there is an inherent typicity here that is the absolute hallmark of classical Pauillac. Powerful, youthful and...
Château Calon Ségur, St-Estèphe, 3ème Cru Classé, 2005
My wines
Firm and structured, the Calon-Ségur remains surprisingly muscular. Produced from a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and a splash...
Bruno Paillard, Nec Plus Ultra, Champagne, France, 2004
My wines
The 2004 Nec Plus Ultra is an expressive and lively Extra Brut. White fruit, pastry, hazelnut and citrus aromas are displayed on the dynamic, well-delineated...
Quinta do Vesúvio, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2000
My wines
A weave of leather, herbal notes and herbaceousness lifts the nose of ripe blueberry, blackberry and mulberry intensity. Solid though modest finish. Very likeable now.
Château de Beaucastel, Hommage à Jacques Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 1995
My wines
Particularly funky aromatic profile, plenty of hung game here but it doesn't dominate the aromatics. A little menthol and leaf tea. Full-bodied, a little farmyardy....
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 1995
My wines
Significantly more development apparent, with notes of leather and cigar combining with drying, leafy tannins and less succulent fruit. Good sweetness on the palate, with...
Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle, Hermitage, Rhône, France 1985
My wines
A gathering of smokes – cold fireplace, extinguished cigar, smoked meats, fireworks. Hot granite and petrichor. It still has weight and breadth, with a great...
Anthony Rose is the wine correspondent of the Independent and i newspapers and contributes to various other publications, among them Decanter Magazine. He was a solicitor in a previous incarnation but decided it was time to get a steady job. He is co-chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards Australia panel and has won a number of awards for wine writing. In 2014 he published The Tapas Bar Guide (Grub Street, £10.99), co-authored with Isabel Cuevas, a guide to tapas bars in the UK. Anthony spends far too much of his time nosing his way around the world in wine competitions, having judged in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Chile, California, Japan, China and France. He is fascinated by Japanese sake and is co-Chairman of the Sake International Challenge in Tokyo and teaches a consumer course at Sake No Hana in London. Anthony is also a published photographer and a founding member of The Wine Gang at ,. Anthony lives in South London and in what spare time he has, he likes to cook, eat and drink the best wines and sakes he can afford on a wine writer’s budget.
