Top red Burgundy comparative tasting: 2003 & 2004
Andy Howard tastes more than 30 red wines from the 2003 and 2004 vintages in Burgundy, comparing the winemaking styles and overall quality of each...
Both the 2003 and 2004 vintages are ones which vignerons in France will remember, and likely not with fondness, for many years. These are two consecutive years with very different characters.
Firstly, 2003 is famous for the August canicule and for being the earliest vintage on record, whilst 2004 was dominated by miserable summer weather which resulted in many lean, acidic wines. Extremes of weather have become commonplace in the past decade but, back in 2003, winemakers were tested to the limit.So it was highly illuminating to sample 38 wines from 2003 and 2004, at the recent tasting held at the offices of Burgundy specialists Goedhuis & Co.
Scroll down to see Andy Howard MW’s tasting notes and scores
In a number of cases, producers showed both vintages, making this an ideal opportunity to compare and contrast the two years. The tasting was brought together by Sarah Marsh MW, through her extensive contacts in Burgundy. All of the wines tasted were sent direct from the domaines, so the storage of the bottles was probably as good as it could have been.
The wines, which were all red, covered a wide range of Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune appellations, including Marsannay, Nuits-St-Georges, Bonnes Mares, Pommard, Gevry Chambertin, Échezéaux, Clos de la Roche and Volnay with different quality levels on show, from village to Grand Cru level.
Perhaps most importantly, some of the Côte d’Or’s finest producers were represented including Roumier, Dujac, Lafon and Rousseau to name but a few.
Pinot Noir is renowned as a fickle grape variety, with the Côte d’Or the home of the world’s finest Pinots. Here, terroir is supposed to be king, so one of the most fascinating objectives of the tasting was to see whether the early dismissal of 2003 as an atypical and disastrous vintage for Pinot Noir was justified. Or whether the simplistic description of 2004 as watery, acidic and only fit for early-drinking (at best) was correct. Alternatively, would the impact of the vintage withdraw into the background as the influence of terroir came to the fore?
Wine Spectator gave the 2004 vintage a lowly rating of 85 points which seems harsh. The growing season was dominated by a cold snap in June which delayed flowering, and cool, wet conditions in July/August leading to oidium. To make matters worse, major hailstorms affected producers in Volnay and Pommard. As with later vintages such as 2007 and 2008, fine weather in September saved the vintage, although yields were quite high along with malic acid. Green characters dominated many wines in their youth but fortunately this character was rarely seen throughout this tasting.
2004 is undoubtedly a lighter vintage, which displayed a greater degree of homogeneity of style at the tasting. In most cases, wines have improved since they were first bottled but only a few have the depth, concentration and layers of flavour to warrant further keeping. However, there are some very attractive wines which still retain lots of freshness.
2003 is significantly different, both in terms of character and consistency. Extreme heat was seen in August, following unusually high temperatures in June, with temperatures remaining over 40 degrees for the first two weeks of August with little respite overnight.
Today, Burgundian winemakers would almost certainly take such extremes in their stride – back then this was a voyage of discovery and numerous mistakes. Holidays were cut short and the harvest began on 13 August, 10 days earlier than the previous record in 1893.
Volumes were less than half the norm yet the best producers realised that gentle handling of their precious grapes was the way forward. Those who knew what they were doing stood a good chance of making some great, albeit not particularly typical, examples of Burgundian Pinot Noir.
As with the 2004s, age has generally been kind to the wines, with many shedding their youthful fatness and perceived low acidity. There is greater density on the palate and a higher proportion have the ability to age further. On the downside, a few wines exhibited the raisined fruit notes that beset many during the heatwave, whilst some have retained angular, grainy tannins which are unlikely to soften.
A good 2003 from a top producer should be memorable although, with the drastically reduced yields, is unlikely to be a bargain and difficult to source – an issue for the majority of these wines where they are no longer commercially available.
One concerning aspect was the high incidence of wines affected by cork taint or simply dried out. Although a couple of bottles sparked debate as to whether TCA was the issue, 5 wines out of 38 were either undrinkable or very disappointing.
See Andy Howard MW’s tasting notes and scores
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Another very fine Bonnes Mares. Rich and robust, this has impeccable balance on the nose and retains great depth of colour. Such an elegant palate...
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Domaine Dujac, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2003
Rich and showing quite a lot of maturity on the nose, this has a character of wet, autumn leaves combined with intense, sweet, dark fruits....
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Domaine Pierre Damoy, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2003
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According to Alec Seysses, 'the 2004s are showing well now.' This has a dried currant character with an edge of Havana cigars, earth, smoke, and...
2004
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Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2003
A lovely example of Bonnes Mares with richness, exotic spices and a great structure underpinning the whole. Although the palate is unctuous there is still...
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Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Echézeaux Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2004
Deep in colour, powerful on the palate yet still retains a lovely freshness. There is an abundance of character here, with plenty of firm tannins,...
2004
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Domaine Tollot-Beaut, Corton Les Bressandes Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2003
Weighing in with 14.5% alcohol one might expect this to be a very atypical Burgundian Pinot Noir. Deeply coloured, it has great concentration and still...
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Domaine de l’Arlot, Nuits-St-Georges, 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St-Georges, Burgundy, France, 2003
Picking started here on 26 August – the earliest ever. Very low yields (less than 50% of normal). Paler hue, showing some age but not...
2003
Domaine de l’ArlotNuits-St-Georges
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Echézeaux Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2003
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Domaine Michel Gros, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Clos des Réas, Burgundy, France, 2004
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2004
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Domaine Georges Roumier, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2004
<p>From one of the most renowned producers and a great vineyard, expectations were high. This isn’t as memorable as the 2003 and is certainly not...
2004
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Domaine Lafarge, Volnay, Clos des Chênes 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 2003
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Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Santenots-du-Milieu, Volnay, 1er Cru Santenots, Burgundy, France, 2003
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Domaine Pierre Damoy, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2003
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2003
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Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Nuits-St-Georges, 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale, Burgundy, France, 2004
Clos de la Maréchale returned to Domaine in 2004 after a 53-year farming contract with Faiveley ended. At 9ha, Clos de La Maréchale is the...
2004
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Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2004
Latricières lies next to Chambertin, adjacent to Morey-Saint-Denis, with cooler soils usually benefitting from hotter summers. Cool, elegant, restrained and precise, with attractive red cherry...
2004
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Domaine Faiveley, Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru Monopole, Burgundy, France, 2003
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2003
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Méo-Camuzet Frères & Soeurs, Nuits-St-Georges, 1er Cru Argillas, Burgundy, France, 2003
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Domaine Jean Chauvenet, Nuits-St-Georges, 1er Cru Bousselots, Burgundy, France, 2003
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2003
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Bouchard Père & Fils, Pommard, 1er Cru Rugiens-Bas, Burgundy, France, 2004
The Bouchard estate now owns 130ha of vineyards with 12 Grand Cru and 74 1er Cru. This is a top-Pommard vineyard to the southwest of...
2004
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Méo-Camuzet Frères & Soeurs, Nuits-St-Georges, 1er Cru Argillas, Burgundy, France, 2004
Jean-Nicolas returned to run the estate in 1989, being mentored by Jean Méo and Henri Jayer. Now one of the top Burgundian estates. Very fine...
2004
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Domaine Hubert Lamy, St-Aubin, 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard, Burgundy, France, 2003
Derrière Chez-Edouard faces southeast with very good exposure. A very different style to the cool 2004s. Immediate hit of warm spice – mincemeat and Christmas...
2003
Domaine Hubert LamySt-Aubin
Domaine Chanson, Beaune, 1er Cru Clos des Fèves, Burgundy, France, 2003
One of the region’s most historical Domaines – Chanson dates back to 1750. Clos des Fèves is both a monopole and a leading 1er Cru...
2003
Domaine ChansonBeaune
Domaine Michel Gros, Nuits-St-Georges, 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 2003
Good colour, quite youthful in appearance. A little subdued on the nose and lacking the extra dimensions expected. Soft, easy and balanced on the palate....
2003
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Domaine René Bouvier, Clos du Roy, Marsannay, Burgundy, France, 2004
An attractive wine with earthy, savoury characters, this still retains enough sweetness of fruit on the palate in a very elegant, à-point style. Certainly not...
2004
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Domaine de l’Arlot, Nuits-St-Georges, 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St-Georges, Burgundy, France, 2004
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Domaine Michel Gros, Nuits-St-Georges, 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 2004
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Domaine René Bouvier, Racine du Temps, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France, 2003
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2003
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Domaine Marc Roy, Clos Prieur, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France, 2004
A small estate of 4ha, under the direction of Alexandrine Roy since 2003. 100% destemmed, and with light extraction from 60 year-old vines, this is...
2004
Domaine Marc RoyGevrey-Chambertin
Domaine René Bouvier, Racine du Temps, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France, 2004
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2004
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Domaine Rapet, Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Vergelesses 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 2003
Domaine Rapet dates back to 1765, with 18ha in total. Vergelesses is the best red wine site in Pernand, on the mid-slope, where it doesn’t...
2003
Domaine RapetPernand-Vergelesses
Bouchard Père & Fils, Corton Le Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2003
With many different owners and covering a large area, it's difficult to narrow down a style for Corton. However, it's nearly always a wine that...
2003
Bouchard Père & FilsCorton Le Corton Grand Cru
Domaine René Bouvier, Les Jeunes Rois, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France, 2003
This was surprisingly evolved. Opinions were divided as to whether this was a completely ‘clean’ bottle, or one affected by TCA. Whatever the answer, the...
2003
Domaine René BouvierGevrey-Chambertin
