Petit Chablis 2020: top-scoring wines

From vines grown on the plateau above Les Clos, this is a great introduction to the Raveneau style, showing a lovely crystalline purity on the nose. The palate has a light touch of honey as this wine, like all others in the range, is matured in older wooden vessels. Raveneau's Petit Chablis is a relatively new addition, with the vines planted in 2010 and the first vintage being 2014. What a great place to start.

Established in 1923, La Chablisienne continues to set the standard for quality-focused co-operatives around the world. Vibrant and zesty, this is a powerful, concentrated Petit Chablis with aromas of tree fruits and a mineral-driven palate full of flinty, green apple flavours. Average vine age is 15 years, with a planting density between 5,500-6,500 vines per ha. A more structured, serious Petit Chablis with the stuffing to age for several years.

Eléonore Moreau took over control of vinification at this 14ha estate in 2016. The vines were planted by her father in the 1980s in Poilly-sur-Serein. Vinified in stainless steel, this Petit Chablis has great energy, with pristine citrus notes on the palate, and aromas of white flowers. Finishes with a very fresh, salty, lingering aftertaste. A very fine Petit Chablis which would match a number of Chablis.

From a domaine established in 1990 and vineyards planted on the Portlandien plateau, with an average age of 30-40 years. This is an elegant Petit Chablis which balances concentration on the palate with complex flavours, and a great line of acidity keeping everything fresh. Drinking well already, this will keep for 12-18 months. A fine example.

Produced from purchased grapes. Very clean, fresh, lovely ripeness here, together with fine acidity and a mineral edge. Great precision despite its non-estate status. Made 100% in tank, to conserve freshness, says winemaker Didier Seguier.

From a plot above Les Clos, this is another intriguing Petit Chablis with some spice notes on the nose, then fleshy and ripe on the palate, showing zesty lemon and lime fruit. A forward style that is almost ready now, there is a lot of complexity here with good acidity and mineral notes keeping the palate fresh.

From plots above Les Clos which Samuel retained when he split from Billaud-Simon, this has a serious, rather complex nose with floral notes and also fresh green apple. Plenty of flesh on the palate, combined with fresh acidity, this is a Petit Chablis punching well above its weight, and one of the top Petit Chablis around.

From vineyards in Lignorolles. Appealing notes of green apple with a good lick of wet stone and bright acidity. Classy Chablis which delivers what one would expect from the appellation.

The domaine is situated in Noyers-sur-Serein, although brothers Philippe and Michel have been working with vines in Préhy since 1991, and they have now been joined by next generation Damien and Alexandre. This is a classic Petit Chablis with a steely edge and cool mineral characters on the nose and palate, then hints of white flowers and a touch of gunflint which add extra interest.

Established in the 1960s by Philippe Millet, this 14ha estate is now managed by his sons, Paterne and Baudoin. A forward, fleshy but pure Petit Chablis which balances ripe pear fruit with some mineral characters and a fine line of steely acidity. Finishes with an appetising, stony, savoury aftertaste. Good length.

Sporting a non-traditional label, the new approach can also be seen with the name, Orion, a reference to a song by Metallica. The wine is traditional Petit Chablis in style though, showing lovely purity and attractive weight of ripe pear fruit, backed up and freshened by grapefruit acidity. A domaine to watch.

Established in 1893, this family estate continues to develop well, with Stephanie taking over from her father, Sylvain, in 2007. Situated in Beines, Mosnier's Petit Chablis comes from 4ha within the total domaine holdings of 19ha. Crisp apple fruit and good energy on the palate, this has pithy lemon and lime notes to keep everything fresh. A classy Petit Chablis with good length to finish.

Domaine de Mauperthuis is run by Marie-Noëlle and Laurent Ternynck in Préhy. Originally created in 2002, the estate now covers over 20ha. Stéphane Saillet is in charge of winemaking, with natural yeasts now used throughout. Organically farmed, this Petit Chablis has a fine balance between ripe stone fruit on the palate, vibrant, freshening citrus acidity and a salty, mineral finish. Energy and purity here.

Located in Maligny, Domaine Jolly is a sizeable, 17ha estate. The Petit Chablis vineyard extends over 4ha with vines of up to 30 years age. Clean, fresh and appealing, with ripe crunchy green apple fruit and crisp acid keeping everything vibrant. Not hugely complex, an early drinking Petit Chablis which will give lots of pleasure. Hint of iodine on the aftertaste.

Carrying a weighty 13% alcohol, there is a good deal to savour here. With ripe stone fruit on the nose and palate, this is a long way from many leaner Petit Chablis, and the wine has layers of complex fruits, before a lingering, savoury aftertaste. Will probably appeal more to non-Chablis lovers but still an attractive wine.

Sebastien Christophe's domaine is in Fye. After studying in Beaune, the domaine was created in 1999 with 0.6ha; it now comprises over 30ha. A Petit Chablis with plenty of drive on the palate, with a note of bitter grapefruit zest. Appealing ripeness of fruit and weight in the glass, this Petit Chablis has fine purity of fruit, a salty note and enough acidity to keep the wine fresh and vibrant. Slightly short on the finish but I like the purity here.

The domaine spreads over 22ha and seven communes, with just 0.16ha of Petit Chablis. No weedkiller or insecticides have been used at the estate since 2011, with biodynamic principles widely used since 2018. Classic Petit Chablis character on the nose and palate. Initially quite lean and with a touch of salty, zesty, bitter fruit on the palate, this has good concentration and finesse. For drinking early, this has plenty of freshness and drive.

The domaine covers 5.6ha on the right-bank of the Serein River, with this Petit Chablis coming from a plot of just over 1ha. A rounded, fleshy style of Petit Chablis which still retains some lovely freshness and zesty acidity to balance the ripe fruit weight.

Attractive, ripe, almost exotic notes on the nose. Luscious palate with hints of Galia melon supported by crisp, green apple acidity. Very appealing, early drinking, but lots of pleasure here.

Domaine Marsoif has interests across different parts of the Yonne and traces its roots back to the 12th century. Now under the direction of Raphaël Masson, this is an elegant Petit Chablis with some savoury notes combined with a touch of lime zest on the palate. Attractive ripeness but enough acidity to balance. Ready to drink and enjoy.

The domaine is situated in Venoy, between Auxerre and Chablis. Attractive, clean, fresh and zesty Petit Chablis with crisp acidity to balance the green apple fruit characters on the palate.