Styles of Amarone: Twelve wines to try
Susan Hulme MW identifies and investigates the two styles of Amarone, with 12 wine recommendations...
Amarone, the famous ‘Vini da Meditazione’, has existed since Roman times and is Italy’s most famous dried-grape red wine. It is made in the Valpolicella area of Italy’s Veneto region and is dry- to medium-dry with typically high alcohol levels of 15-17%.
One thing that has always made a big impression on me is how different one Amarone is from another. Small wonder perhaps, as there are differences in grape varieties, sub-zones, vineyards, vine training methods and duration and methods of the ‘appassimento’, or the drying of the grapes.
Scroll down to see Hulme’s Amarone tasting notes & scores
What is appassimento?
Appassimento is the traditional, natural method of drying grapes for an extended period – typically between 100 to 120 days – to concentrate sugars and flavours. Intriguingly, a grape detached from the vine is not dead: according to experts, many genes in the DNA of the grape are ‘switched on’ during appassimento.
During the drying process, the grapes shrink and lose 35-40% of their water and the berries soften. There are metabolic changes which result in higher levels of anthocyanins and polyphenols, as well as various chemical changes which contribute to flavour and aroma.
Amarone grapes
The classic Amarone grape varieties are Corvina, Corvinone, Molinara and Rondinella, but there’s also an increasing use of historic grape varieties such as Oseleta. The latter adds a lot of structure to wines in the form of tannins and acidity.
Corvina and Corvinone lose water very slowly in the drying process and this provides enough time for extensive metabolic change. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, on the other hand, tend to lose water too quickly to allow the development of such complex flavours.
During appassimento, Corvina is most susceptible to glycerol-forming botrytis and develops the aromas and flavours of sour cherry, while Oseleta gives smoky, earthy flavours. Molinara contributes acidity as well as black pepper aromas and flavour – some producers like it while others no longer use it. Rondinella, meanwhile, contributes colour and smooth tannins.
It is therefore no wonder that there is a fascinating range of Amarone styles. This was made apparent at an Amarone seminar organised recently by the Institute of Masters of Wine in London, featuring 13 Amarone wineries, known collectively as Le Famiglie Storiche and now celebrating their 10th anniversary.
La Famiglie Storiche was founded, in the words of its president Alberto Zenato, to ‘protect traditional methods, and to guarantee a high level of quality’. Members comprise Allegrini, Bengali, Brigaldara, Guerrieri Rizzardi, Masi, Musella, Speri, Tedeschi, Tenuta Sant’Antonio, Tommasi, Torre D’Orti, Venturini and Zenato.
Amarone styles
The Amarones which stood out for me fell into two very distinct styles. There were those from Speri, Tedeschi and Tommasi – deeply coloured, firmly structured, with more grip to the tannins and with darker flavours and aromas. These had a typical ageing potential in the best vintages of 20-25 or even 30 years.
Then there were the more ethereal, perfumed Amarones – lighter in colour and less dense but with a fine, perfumed silkiness. They can age for a long time too, but are very pleasurable to drink when young. The best of these at this event were from Musella and Venturini.
The ability of the wines to age varied considerably from producer to producer and from one vintage to another. For example, I found Venturini’s Riserva 2001 to be showing beautifully now, while some 2011s were already looking tired.
Many of the wines were technically dry with around 4g/l residual sugar but some were as high as 9.8g/l, so there is often a perception of sweetness. This is exaggerated by the increased levels of glycerol which make a wine feel sweeter than it is.
Food matching
Richly flavoured meat dishes and powerful cheeses are suggested food pairings for Amarone, but I think that some Asian cuisine, such as crispy duck with dark soy sauce, sweet and sour pork, and some curries, would work well too.
Susan’s 12 Amarone highlights from the tasting:
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De Buris, Riserva, Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2008
<p>Tommasi's De Buris Amarone is a new top-tier brand made from specific plots on the top of La Grola Hill, facing southwest with views over Lake Garda. The vines have an average age of 45 years. This wine has a beautifully voluptuous texture with dark, smoky, charred and spicy notes alongside sun-dried flame raisin fruit. Flavours of woodsmoke, liquorice and dried cherry interplay amidst the lush, velvety texture, while the finish is very clean and bright.</p>
2008
De BurisAmarone della Valpolicella
Venturini, Riserva, Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2001
2001 was a very positive vintage with big differences between day-time and night-time temperatures in September, which was great for the aromatics. Venturini's Riserva is seductively perfumed, with fragrant notes of freesia, violet, dark chocolate and cherry. On the palate a beautiful, rich, silky texture is contrasted by fine, grippy tannins and savoury liquorice flavours to create a wonderfully balanced wine. This is drinking perfectly now. Delightful!
2001
VenturiniAmarone della Valpolicella
Speri, Vigneto Monte Sant'Urbano, Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2015
Speri started working organically in 2004 but the great 2015 vintage is the first to be certified. As a result, Speri feel the wines seem brighter and more expressive, and with this wine I have to agree. It's a serious, dry-style Amarone from the hillside Monte Sant' Urbano single vineyard. It is bright, tenacious, firmly structured and long, with great freshness and acidity and clear, pure flavours of ripe red and black cherry.
2015
SperiAmarone della Valpolicella
Tedeschi, Capitel Monte Olmi Riserva, Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2013
This 2013 Amarone, from 55- to 60-year-old vines in the Capitel Monte Olmi vineyard, shows Tedeschi back on form. The 5% Oseleta in the blend gives more structure to the wines. 'I like this vertical style of Amarone,' comments Riccardo Tedeschi. It has a bright, pure, youthful character with notes of eucalyptus and mint. Firm but fine-textured tannins and a soft and silky mid-palate lead to a savoury finish with grip and bite.
2013
TedeschiAmarone della Valpolicella
Musella, Senza Titolo, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2009
<p>It is the beautiful texture and weightless quality of Musella's Senza Titolo 2009 that first captures your attention. Supremely silky and refined, it flows seamlessly across the palate. Every care and attention has been taken - grapes for this wine were foot-trodden and indigenous yeast was used together with larger 700-litre untoasted barrels for a limited oak effect. These biodynamic producers seem to be able to deliver harmony in a glass!</p>
2009
MusellaAmarone della Valpolicella
Musella, Riserva, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2012
<p>The Musella Amarone is all about beautiful harmony and flow and Maddalena, daughter of owner Emilio Pasqua Di Bisceglie, believes that 2012 was the first time their biodynamic vines found their true expression. It's not super-concentrated or heavy, nor oaky; instead it's open and friendly with plenty of juicy, bright cherry and rose flavours and aromas: more Burgundian in weight and texture, with expressive notes of sweet spice, tobacco, smoke and cherry.</p>
2012
MusellaAmarone della Valpolicella
Venturini, Campo Masua, Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2012
<p>Venturini's Campo Masua Amarone is from 35-year-old vines in a single southwest-facing vineyard, located 350m above sea level on rocky soil. Headily fragrant, its rose-filled aromas mix with exotic spice, vanilla-cream and white chocolate notes, all subtle and beautifully integrated. The sweet and gentle first impression - with its soft, elegant, floral flavours - contrasts with bitter notes, black cherry, a green bramble finish and very fine-textured tannins. Pretty, charming and a pleasure to drink!</p>
2012
VenturiniAmarone della Valpolicella
Brigaldara, Riserva, Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2007
<p>2007 was a hot vintage, but not as hot as 2003, and cooler nights made for more precise and aromatic wines. Still youthful for its age, there are subtle and understated aromas of fresh earth, mulberry and smoke. The texture is lovely and even, flowing across the palate with silky black cherry flavours- all very elegant and nicely balanced. The finish is dry, fine and persistent, combining savoury and sweet notes.</p>
2007
BrigaldaraAmarone della Valpolicella
Guerrieri Rizzardi, Calcarole, Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2011
Calcarole is only produced in the best years and in limited quantities. The chalky, limestone soil of the vineyard produces a fine-textured, delicate, floral wine. Pale garnet in colour, it has notes of sweet ash-like smoke, dried fruits, sultanas and fruitcake. It has a beautiful melting texture that's soft, round and full without being heavy, with finely integrated soft tannins. It's a little lighter and more fragile in style, like a beautiful faded rose.
2011
Guerrieri RizzardiAmarone della Valpolicella
Tenuta Sant'Antonio, Campo dei Gigli, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2008
Campo dei Gigli, at 300m above sea level and with white limestone soil is Tenuta Sant'Antonio's oldest single vineyard, with an average vine age of 40 years. The 2008 has a sweet, pure nose of black cherries in alcohol, with floral, sun-dried raisin, leather and spice notes. 8g/l of sugar gives a first impression of sweet cherry, followed by a beautiful, velvety texture, some grippy tannins and a savoury, salty finish.
2008
Tenuta Sant'AntonioAmarone della Valpolicella
Masi, Costasera Riserva, Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2013
Masi has been owned by the Boscaini family since the 18th century and is one of the most well-known names for Amarone in the UK. This 2013 Costasera has soft, sweet-spice aromas with gentle top notes reminiscent of icing sugar and sweet vanilla spice. On the palate, the flavours are greener, with a brambly and more earthy character underneath. It has some charm but it needs more concentration and depth in the middle and finishes with slightly drying tannins. Lacks real focus.
2013
MasiAmarone della Valpolicella
Allegrini, Amarone della Valpolicella, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2015
2015 has been described as a perfect vintage for Amarone: it was hot, but not too hot, with a big difference between day-time and night-time temperatures. Allegrini's 2015 is very immediate, with ripe black cherry, some sweet oak-spice and leafy, smoky, earthy notes wrapped around perfumed redcurrants. Round, soft and creamy, it's not as firmly structured or concentrated as some, but displays a nice balance between dry and sweet.
2015
AllegriniAmarone della Valpolicella
