Vintage Champagne: panel tasting results
In a rare jaunt through the ‘regular’ vintage category, our judges found excellent quality from a range of years, at prices truly to suit all pockets.
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Simon Field MW, Alan Bednarski and Tim Hall tasted 93 wines with seven Outstanding and 64 Highly Recommended
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their most recently released white vintage Champagnes
Vintage Champagne panel tasting scores
93 wines tasted
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 7
Highly recommended 64
Recommended 19
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Commended 2
Fair 0
Poor 0
Faulty 1
The words vintage and Champagne make for a felicitous and evocative juxtaposition. One would have been very surprised if James Bond had offered one of his many inamoratas a glass of non-vintage Champagne.
Yet tradition and glamour belie the hard facts of the market. Non-vintage (NV) Champagne has long dominated proceedings, built out of an aspiration for a consistent style, year in year out – something achieved only by blending different grapes across different villages and different vintages.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring vintage Champagnes
But now ripening grapes is becoming less of a problem, and more and more Champagne houses are declaring a vintage, running the meteorological risks of the year in question with increasing confidence. The category must be on the up, surely?
The facts gainsay this assertion, however. The Comité Champagne (CIVC) numbers for 2020, a tricky year for many self-evident reasons, reveal that NV Champagne shipments made up 78.5% of the market by volume and 64.9% by value (see ‘Champagne rips up the rule book’, December 2021 issue).
Vintage’s equivalent numbers are rather feeble: 1.2% and 1.5%. Part of the reason for this is that there is a separate, largely vintage category, ‘prestige’, which accounts for 4.9% by volume and 16.5 % by value. With the other classifications (rosé, non-dosé) also on the march, there seems to be a squeeze on the ‘normal’ vintage Champagnes – trapped between the Scylla of NV volume and the Charybdis of prestige’s ever-present flirtation with luxury and aspiration.
It was high time for a tasting, then, and for some reassurance of the quality latent in this category. And quality we found aplenty, with seven wines of the 93 tasted rated 95 points or above and another seven scoring 94pts.
Testament indeed to the sheer class of some of the vintages on display, 2012 primus inter pares winning four of the top slots, and honourable mentions to that classically constructed vintage, 2013, and the older gems, 2008, 2006 and 2002.
Tim Hall, Champagne guru nonpareil, was especially enamoured of 2012, which he described as ‘majestic and concentrated’.
Indeed, all of the vintages tasted met with his approval: ‘The majority of these wines impressed with their definition and intensity, and their distinctive vintage character.’ Something, in other words, to lift them above their NV siblings.
See all 92 wines from the vintage Champagne panel tasting
Some terrific wines, then, although there may be a debate as to whether some of the entrants may have actually belonged in the prestige category.
It is sometimes hard to separate the vintage from the prestige, it has to be admitted, and this may be an issue in promoting and marketing the former.
Where, for example, do the superlative Rare 2008 (an almost embarrassingly frequent winner on the blind-tasting podium) and the wonderfully impressive Ayala, La Perle 2012 belong? Hard to say. No one, however, would deny their quality. The same point may be made about Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque and the Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs.
No matter: what is in the glass has demonstrably trumped any pedantry over definition. Alan Bednarski gave us the expert sommelier’s perspective by underlining that so many of the wines were both fantastically approachable and yet worthy of extra ageing too – not mutually exclusive qualities, for sure.
For Bednarski, the tasting offered proof, should it be needed, that ‘Champagne is by far the best-quality sparkling wine in the world’.
The competition is hotting up just as the temperature is heating up; but on the basis of a tasting such as this, we can rest assured that vintage Champagne is definitely still a force to be reckoned with…
Best vintage Champagne: See the top-scoring bottles from the panel tasting
Wines listed scored 90 points or above.
The judges
Simon Field MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Champagne. A Berry Bros & Rudd buyer for more than 20 years, he now consults on areas which particularly interested him in that time, with Champagne topping the list in France.
Alan Bednarski is a wine consultant, a Court of Master Sommeliers advanced sommelier, and a DWWA judge. He moved to London in 2015 and has held positions at prominent venues including head sommelier at Texture. In 2019, he came third in the UK Sommelier of the Year competition.
Tim Hall is director of Scala Wine, importing single-estate Champagnes to the UK and running guided trips to Champagne and Bordeaux. He won CIVC’s Champagne Ambassador UK award in 2013, and is a Chambellan of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne.
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Ruinart, Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France, 2009

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Asda, Extra Special Louis Bernard, Champagne, France, 2012

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Piper-Heidsieck, Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Chef de cave Emilien Boutillat supervised the sourcing of grapes for the 2012 from 12 different plots, two-thirds of which are designated as either premier...
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Jean Philippe Moulin, Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

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Billecart-Salmon, Cuvée Louis Salmon Brut, Champagne, France, 2007

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Ayala, La Perle Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Ayala pioneered the dry styles of Champagne at a time when demi-sec or sweet was the norm. La Perle is sourced only from grand cru...
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Nicolas Feuillatte, Palmes d'Or, Champagne, France, 2008

Supremely attractive nose of lemon, lime, dry stone fruits, Christmas cake, nutmeg, vanilla and almond. Delicate texture on the palate with a very long finish.
2008
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Nicolas Feuillatte
Champagne de Barfontarc, Cuvée Sainte-Germaine Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

Nose of plums, spring flowers, berry fruit, fresh zesty citrus and a hint of verbena. Nice poise on the palate, harmonious and well-balanced. Terrific aperitif...
2013
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Barons de Rothschild, Rare Collection Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Compact yet persuasive nose of white flowers, smoke, poached pear, plums and spices. Generous and broad on the palate with a delicate mousse and silky...
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Saint-Réol, Elégance Grand Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Vinous nose with gentle bready notes, smoke and bright apple and lemon nuances. Appealing fresh fruit on the palate, with impressive shard of citric acidity...
2012
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Roger Barnier, Cuvée Exquise Brut, Champagne, France, 2008

Generous nose with developed notes of white fruits, clove, butter, pineapple and hints of figs. Compelling, sophisticated with a serious spicy character. Mineral finish.
2008
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Eugène III, Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

Interesting aromas of apricot, plum, late season apple and lemon grass with hints of fresh cherries and white roses. Classically poised, resonant and pure with...
2013
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Eugène III
Taittinger, Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

Sweet tobacco leaf on the nose with seductive honeysuckle undertones, lemongrass and fallen apples nuances. Approachable in the mouth with a firm pull of acidity.
2014
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Lanson, Le Vintage Brut, Champagne, France, 2009

Elegant aromas of baked apples, dried citrus peel, biscuit crunch and some cream. Lovely freshness on the palate, showing a fine mousse.
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Bruno Paillard, Assemblage Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Approachable nose of crushed yellow fruits, white blossom and baked pear. Harmonious with tension and a smokey character. Zesty finish.
2012
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Billecart-Salmon, Cuvée Nicolas François Brut, Champagne, France, 2002

Evolving nose displaying nuances of lemon, cream and complex notes of truffle and mushroom. Fresh and structured with a pristine finish.
2002
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Lété-Vautrain, Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

Attractive aromas of peachy fruit, cotton candy and complex salty notes. Very fresh on the palate, harmonious with a persistent, creamy mousse.
2013
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De Saint-Gall, Le Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

Delicate expression on the nose, showing scents of iris, orange blossom, oolong tea and almond flakes. Generous on the palate, poised with a refreshing finish.
2013
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Charles Clément, Brut, Champagne, France, 2006

Classic elegant aromas of plums, dried apricots, flowers and soft citrics. Delicate dry vinous notes on the palate with a spicy character.
2006
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Legras & Haas, Les Sillons Grand Cru, Champagne, France, 2015

Voluptuous nose of guava, Mirabelle plum, cotton candy and blossom. Delicious on the palate with a gentle mousse and fresh structure, chalky finish.
2015
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Besserat de Bellefon, Brut, Champagne, France, 2008

Charming nose of candied lemon and peach with delicate touches of ginger and iris root. Layered and delicate texture, perfectly balanced.
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Castelnau, Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2007

Mature nose of honey, beeswax, dairy, apple tart and caramel. Concentrated and driving on the palate with a gentle finish.
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Laurent-Perrier, Brut, Champagne, France, 2008

Very pure aromas of pear drop, honeysuckle, bergamot, acacia and quince. Imperious grip at the back, brilliantly balanced by a zesty freshness.
2008
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Devaux, D Brut, Champagne, France, 2009

Zesty nose with notes of peach and apricot and hints of red fruits and nuts. Classic and harmonious, with a creamy body.
2009
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Larmandier-Bernier, Les Chemins d'Avize Grand Cru Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

Pithy nose with lemongrass and verbena undertones and nuances of coconut and tropical notes. Rich and rounded, creamy, showing finesse.
2013
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Chassenay d'Arce, Pinot Blanc Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Fresh nose of spring flowers with fresh and dried herbs notes and lemony undertones. Soft bubbles and very pleasant aftertaste.
2012
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Mouzon Leroux, La Blanche Voie Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

Elegant aromas of white tea, fresh red berries, blossoming cherries and plums. Dry and zesty with an apple tart finish.
2013
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Philippe Fourrier, Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

Fresh nose of crushed yellow plum with a smoky character. Savoury on the palate, with white pepper and red fruit touches.
2014
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Philippe Fourrier
Mumm, RSRV Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Vibrant aromas of red berries, blueberries, lemon zest and hints of brine. Well-balanced and structured with a textured finish.
2012
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Boizel, Joyau de France Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2008

Gentle aromas of nectarine, plum, flower and a lemony breeze. Precise on the palate, with tension and freshness. Classy.
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Esterlin, Cléo Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2010

Persuasive nose showing notes of honeycomb, bitter lemon and dried herbs. Focused on the palate with a chalky finish.
2010
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Perrier-Jouët, Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France, 2006

A mature nose with tertiary notes beyond toast and brioche, the most powerful nose of the vertical tasting. The same sense of austerity as on...
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Boizel, Grand Vintage Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Delicate floral and white pepper notes with subtle sweet nuances of caramel. Full-bodied with a leesy note and persistent finish.
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Veuve Clicquot, Champagne, France, 2012

The nose has pretty floral hints of citrus blossom, layered with apricot, peach, lemon tart and nuts. Toasted brioche on the firm palate, with pear,...
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Legras & Haas, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Classic nose of bakery, ripe peach, plums and figs. Impressive palate with a savoury character, concentrated, with a fresh finish.
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Mumm, Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

Expressive nose with notes of ripe peach, bakery, Mirabelle plum and yellow flowers. Nice mineral tang on the palate.
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Moët & Chandon, Grand Vintage Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

Subtle nose with aromas of green salad, bakery and hints of savoury notes. Elegant and whimsical, charming palate.
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AR Lenoble, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Herbal nose of fern notes, roast apricot, rosemary and crème brûlée aromas. Well-structured on the palate, showing charm and finesse.
2012
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Jacques Pougeoise & Fils, Cuvée Prestige 1er Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Playful and accessible, showing lemony, baked peach pie and brioche aromas. Fresh and zesty in the mouth with lively bubbles.
2012
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Pierre Vaudon, Grand Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

Restrained nose with elegant notes of wild berries and nectarine, and hints of resinous spices. Well-textured body with a salty finish.
2015
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Monmarthe, Le Nid d'Agace Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

Cherry blossom, strawberries, verbena and delicate cranberry leaf aromas. Assertive acidity and a lightweight pillowy texture on the palate.
2014
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De Saint-Gall, So Dark Grand Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

Fresh citrus and red fruits aromas on the nose. Fresh and gentle in the mouth with tension and a delicate bitter finish.
2015
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Duménil, 1er Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2013

Bloody orange, ripe citrus juice with tangerine peel and fresh white pear aromas. Smooth texture with a delicate mousse.
2013
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Perrier-Jouët, Belle Epoque, Champagne, France, 2013

Fresh nose of green apple tart and peel, lime juice and hints of dry herbs and brioche. Pleasing in the mouth.
2013
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Gremillet, Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

Exotic nose of oyster shells, dry fruit, grapefruit and cranberries with hints of sage. Savoury on the palate with a chalky finish.
2015
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Jacquart, Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

Focused nose with fresh tropical fruit, cream, jasmine pearls and white tea notes, hints of incense and potpourri. Dry and delicate, rewarding.
2014
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Ayala, Blanc des Blancs, Champagne, France, 2014

Creamy nose with nuances of dry hay, quince tart and wet wool. Chalky fruit kernel mid-palate with a lively acidity.
2014
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Deutz, Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

Attractive smoke and meadow aromas with hints of baked brioche. Off-dry and earthy on the palate, quite gastronomic.
2014
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Lanson, Clos Lanson Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2007

Nose of figs and plums with apricot and dried flowers nuances. Classy and creamy on the palate.
2007
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Collard-Picard, Archives Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Classic nose of quince, brioche and plum with hints of oak and hazelnuts. The palate is broad-brushed and generous.
2012
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Arteis & Co, Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2007

Delicate undertones of pickled apples, kumquat, pineapple and hints of vanilla and tobacco. Charmingly drinkable with a zesty finish.
2007
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Vincent Charlot, L'Or des Basses Ronces Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

Spicy nose with hints of spring flowers and petrichor, seasoned with hints of oak. Poised and zesty with a refreshing finish.
2014
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Waitrose, In Partnership with Castelnau Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Lively nose of baked apples, cinnamon, nutmeg and warm cream. Lively on the palate with a fresh lemony character.
2012
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Dom Caudron, Sublimité 50/50 Brut, Champagne, France, 2010

Baked almonds, marzipan, brioche, gingerbread and honeycomb notes. Attractive fruit on the palate with a hint of smoke.
2010
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Germar Breton, Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

Soft and charming nose of plum, caramel and hints of mandarin. Zesty freshness with nuances of nougat on the palate.
2014
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Maurice Grumier, Les Plates Pierres Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

Pithy grapefruit nose with notes of spices and verbena. Composed and expressive with dairy undertones.
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Montaudon, Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

Indulgent playful nose of apple charlotte and quince with toasty undertones. Vinous and flavourful on the palate.
2015
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Brimoncourt, Brut, Champagne, France, 2009

Developed nose of cooked yellow fruit, dry roses, white tea and grapefruit undertones. Seductive mouthfeel.
2009
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Delavenne Père & Fils, Grand Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

Classic nose of late season apples, nectarine, tobacco, nougat and dairy. Lively and structured on the palate.
2015
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Gaston Chiquet, Or 1er Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

Lively nose of blueberries, apricots and lemon peel. Very complete palate with a touch of sweetness.
2014
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Monmarthe, Le Mont Joyeux Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

Enticing smoky nose with a touch of flintstone and lemongrass. Ripe with a tight lean structure holding it.
2015
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Pannier, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

Lifted and complex nose with notes of sea breeze and yellow apples. Pleasing texture on the palate.
2014
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Cattier, Brut Millésimé, Champagne, France, 2012

Savoury nose with notes of bread, orange peel and ripe peaches. Brooding on the palate with a delicate bitterness.
2012
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Christophe Gauthier, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2014

Harmonious aromas of cinnamon, cloves, peaches and guava. Firmly defined palate with a biscuity finish.
2014
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Pannier, Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

Fresh and delicate aromas of orchard fruit, orange blossom, lily and cool fern. Generous and poised on the palate.
2015
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Pannier
Collard-Picard, Essentiel Zero Dosage, Champagne, France, 2012

Evolving nose displaying notes of brioche, spices, ripe peaches, coriander and marshmallow. Powerful and biscuity, very young.
2012
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J Charpentier, Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

Very ripe and luscious peachy fruit on the nose. Smooth and vibrant palate with an impressive concentration.
2015
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J Charpentier
Nicolas Feuillatte, Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

Scents of citrus peel, lemongrass, hay and dried flowers. Rounded creamy texture with a pleasing lively finish.
2015
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Nicolas Feuillatte
Vilmart, Grand Cellier d'Or 1er Cru Brut, Champagne, France, 2015

Lemony-rain nose with yellow cooked fruit, linseed oil and buttered toast aromas. Generous palate, ripe and vibrant.
2015
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Vilmart

Simon Field MW joined Berry Brothers & Rudd in 1998 and was with them for 20 years, having spent several misguided but lucrative years working as a chartered accountant in the City.
During his time at BBR Simon was buying the Spanish and fortified ranges, and was also responsible for purchasing wines from Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, the Rhône Valley and the Loire Valley.
He gained his Master of Wine qualification in October 2002 and in 2015 was admitted into the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino.
He began judging at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) in 2005 and most recently judged at DWWA 2019.