Walls: Henri Bonneau and the estate today

In regions like the Rhône, where winemaking is still very much a family affair, vineyards are usually handed down from one generation to the next. So, what happens when that’s not possible?

This was the situation following the death of revered Châteauneuf-du-Pape vigneron, Henri Bonneau, on 21 March, 2016. I visited the estate recently to meet the new estate managers and to find out what, if anything, has changed since his passing.

Scroll down for Matt Walls’ tasting notes and scores for the Henri Bonneau wines tasted

Henri Bonneau, who died aged 77 from complications brought on by diabetes, was the 12th generation of winemaker in his family. Born 1 October, 1938, he left school aged 14 to help his father in the vineyards and the the 1956 vintage was the first made by Henri.

He lived with his wife Jacqueline in a plain terraced house at the heart of the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Despite his wines selling for high prices in recent years, he lived a modest life, making wine together with his son Marcel, who sadly wasn’t physically able to take on the estate after his father’s death.

New ownership

The estate has instead been taken over by Bonneau’s long-standing commercial partner Daniel Combin. Combin used to own extensive vineyards over the river in the Gard department, which have since been sold, as well as a small chain of wine shops. He was in charge of sales so that Bonneau could concentrate solely on production.

Combin has largely stepped back from his other interests, but is still closely involved with the Bonneau domaine. He has appointed Régis Charmasson to run the company, which includes the day-to-day vineyard and cellar functions. Charmasson has no formal winemaking training, but has worked closely with Combin for over 30 years.

I took a tour around some of the main vineyard parcels with Combin and Charmasson in October, and it is clear that there have been some changes. Under Henri’s ownership, the vineyards could be rather unkempt.

Today they are more regimented, with less grass in the vineyards and vines trained high on wooden stakes or held on wires. They have also introduced green harvesting.

The winemaking legacy

When it comes to vinification, Charmasson stays as close to Henri’s recipe as possible. Wines are made in a small cellar just outside the village and matured in dank catacombs under the Bonneau family home.

In the cellar, grapes are not destemmed and fermentation takes place in concrete vats with natural yeasts. Macerations are short – around 15 days – and extraction is gentle.

Combin and Charmasson do not work with a consultant winemaker, ‘because Henri’s techniques aren’t the same as a technician’s,’ says Combin. There are no additions during winemaking and the wines are bottled unfiltered.

The signature style

Long élevage has always been a crucial part of Bonneau’s wines. While some neighbouring estates opt for a short maturation before getting wines swiftly to market, Henri was committed to long barrel ageing, generally between two and four years but sometimes twice that. When he decided the wines were ready, he would blend and bottle.

The walls of the cellars under the family home glisten with condensation. The countless interlinking chambers are home to an assortment of ancient foudres, demi-muids and barriques. Some look like they could fall apart at any moment, others are covered in various types of mould. Does this unique environment contribute to the signature Bonneau style? I’d be surprised if it didn’t.

Exploring the range

There are three main bottlings: Henri Bonneau, Cuvée Marie Beurrier (named after Jacqueline’s aunt) and Réserve des Célestins. Each represents a step up in quality, and not all were made in every vintage.

There is one other Châteauneuf bottling called Cuvée Spéciale, which was only made in 1990 and 1998, made from barrels that didn’t finish fermenting so the final wine retained some residual sugar.

They also make Les Rouliers, labelled as Vin de France, the fruit for which comes from a 3ha plot in the Gard, just south of Saint-Marcel-d’Ardèche and bought in 2001.

Though some questions remain about the domaine and its management, it would appear from tasting the wines made since Henri’s passing that the quality of the terroir still shines through.

It’s worth noting, however, that the new team has been blessed with four largely favourable vintages (in 2018 they sprayed against mildew, so achieved a good crop). Would they have fared as well as Henri did in the tricky 2014? The Rhône’s run of luck surely can’t last forever.

Taking Henri’s wines into the future

I’m looking forward to tasting the post-Henri wines when they are in bottle, once the crucial stages of maturation and blending are complete. Only then will we really know how much the great wines of Henri Bonneau were down to his enviable parcels, or whether they were intrinsically linked to the hand of this winemaking legend.

In his worn blue dungarees, Henri was a rotund, mischievous figure, often sporting a wide grin and wild eyebrows.

If the wines turn out to be just as good and come from the same vineyards, how much does it matter that it is no longer Henri – or indeed any Bonneau – making the wines here? The answer to that is a very personal one. But one thing is certain; he will be missed.

Vintages since Henri: 2016 to 2019

I tasted all the vintages that have been made by Combin and Charmasson since they began with the 2016. There were two samples for each vintage: one from La Crau that typically goes into the Réserve des Célestins label, if made in that vintage, and another that was a blend of other parcels.

Here are my impressions of each sample. It’s worth noting that these wines have a long period of maturation and then blending ahead of them, so the comments should be considered in light of this.

La Crau 2019

This was much fresher, finer and distinctly woodier than the ‘other parcels’. Really powerful and fresh, with great potential. With its mineral dimension it was impressive and should be very long-lived. 96 points.

Other Parcels 2019

Destined for four years élevage, at present it is showing a lovely acid line and fine but grippy tannins. This sample was a touch volatile. 88 points.

La Crau 2018

A little herbal, potpourri lick in the background. Silky and round on the palate, you can feel the stems quite noticeably. Not the finest tannins, but it has power, impact and good acidity. This should be quite long-lived. 95 points.

Other Parcels 2018

Fairly straightforward and not terribly deep, but it has good acidity. The high alcohol isn’t quite matched by the fruit, but it does have good freshness for the vintage. 90 points.

La Crau 2017

Still young but showing a savoury and red-fruited character. It is vibrant and some oak is perceptible, but it works well. There is a deep-seated acidity. The alcohol is high and warming but balanced, meaning this will be long-lived. 97 points.

Other Parcels 2017

Liquorice and menthol warmth. This is a spicy vintage, quite powerful in style with sweet spice running through and onto the finish. Very fine, with deeply embedded acidity. 94 points.

La Crau 2016

Again showing plentiful whole bunch aromatics, with rosemary and liquorice overtones and remarkable, driving acidity. Spicy and long, it’s not overly full-bodied but still feels structured, with fine tannins. The alcohol is warming, but not excessive or unbalanced. A great wine which will age well. 98 points.

Other Parcels 2016

Stalky aromatics and a little volatility, however it is silky and generous on the palate. With its remarkably high acidity it feels well balanced and long. Old fashioned for sure, but with a lovely floral, ashy, whole bunch character. 95 points.

Tasting a selection of Henri Bonneau wines across eight vintages:

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