Wines of the Year 2022: the top whites

The strength and depth of Italy and an incredible flight of Chardonnay were the highlights among the 46 white wines nominated in Decanter’s Wines of the Year 2022. Tina Gellie chatted to the three judges after the tasting to find out more.

By Tina Gellie

last updated 9 January 2023

in Tastings

wines of the year 2022 whites — (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Italy dominated the white wine submissions in our 2022 Decanter Wines of the Year, with 15 of the 46 entries.

‘This is something that speaks very well of Italy,’ notes Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW. ‘How it answers our call when we want a white wine that’s something a little different but with a lot of personality.’

Scroll down for top whites in Decanter’s Wines of the Year 2022 tasting

Vincenzo Arnese was particularly proud of his motherland’s strong performance. ‘Alongside many classic Italian grapes that showed well, like Pinot Grigio, Friulano and Verdicchio, I was really happy to see a great example of Timorasso from Piedmont that scored very highly. It was shy on the nose perhaps, but richer on the palate as it opened up.’

This and other ‘off the beaten track’ wines impressed Amanda Barnes too. ‘We saw a real diversity of expression, as well as beautiful purity and precision,’ she said. ‘Italy was definitely the strongest performer overall throughout the two-days of tasting.’

Chardonnay shines

The other highlight among the whites was Chardonnay. ‘A truly wonderful flight,’ marvelled Ballesteros Torres. ’The amazing thing was that there was not any California or any Burgundy. Despite this, our White Wine of the Year was absolutely of an equal quality.’

Barnes agreed, especially excited by the ‘striking acidity, flinty minerality and real capacity to age of the New World examples’.

The performance of Australia and New Zealand in this flight led Arnese to question why the terms New World and Old World were still used. ‘This differentiation doesn’t exist anymore, ‘ he said. ‘It suggests some regions are second place to older, traditionally more prestigious ones.’

‘We should adopt “cooler climate”, “moderate climate” and “warmer climate”, especially when we speak about Chardonnay,’ he proposed. ‘Our White Wine of the Year showed richness, identity and typicity. That it came from Australia shouldn’t come as a surprise. It is a statement.’

Offbeat stars

The eclectic wines always intrigue the judges, keen to make new discoveries in an ever-expanding wine world. The biggest surprise was the unfortified Palomino from Jerez, described as ‘gorgeous’ by Ballesteros Torres and ‘exciting’ by Barnes. With its Sherry character still evident but with a more fruit-forward profile, ‘it’s a style that offers new life for the region and I think we will see more producers embracing it in future’, added Arnese.

Barnes also had a few personal favourites to single out. ‘I was particularly excited by the orange Assyrtiko from Greece as well as some really interesting island whites. These saline, mineral styles show that even niche wines from tiny regions and wineries have a place among the best of the world.’

Surprises and shocks

Our trio of experts were surprised there was just one white Burgundy nomination, as well as the absence of any dry Riesling. ‘It was a bit of a shock, as it’s one of the best possible experiences in wine: unique, ageworthy and pristine,’ said Ballesteros Torres.

He and Barnes were also disappointed not just in the lack of still rosés (just three nominated), but that they didn’t show any real character. ‘Quality is not a problem with rosé,’ he explained. ‘There are top wines out there. The problem is that so many people who make rosé and who drink rosé still see it as a second-class wine.’

Barnes agreed. ‘It’s interesting so few of Decanter’s experts considered rosés among their best wines of the year. That’s a shame, and I’d really love to see more exciting recommendations in future years.’

Overall, however, our judges were enthralled at the calibre and diversity of the 46 whites among our 125 Wines of the Year. ‘It was just so wonderful to see so many different regions, styles and varieties represented,’ said Barnes, speaking on behalf of her fellow judges. ‘An exciting set of mouthwatering wines that I’m looking forward to seeking out myself.’

Full list of all white wines

WHITE WINE OF THE YEAR – 99 points

Tolpuddle Vineyard, Chardonnay, Coal River Valley, Tasmania, Australia 2021 (nominated by Sarah Ahmed; Classic)

VALUE WINE OF THE YEAR – 96 points

Bodegas Muriel, Viña Muriel Reserva Blanco, Rioja, Spain 2013 (nominated by Sonja van Praag; Value)

98 points

De la Riva, Vino de Pasto Macharnudo, Jerez, Spain 2019 (Sarah Jane Evans MW; Classic)

97 points

Giaconda, Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, Beechworth, Victoria, Australia 2017 (Richard Mayson; Classic)

Vietti, Derthona Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont, Italy 2020 (Susan Hulme MW; Offbeat)

96 points

Bernhard Huber, Schlossberg Chardonnay GG, Breisgau, Baden, Germany 2020 (Caro Maurer MW; Classic)

Bisci, Vigneto Fogliano Verdicchio di Matelica, Marche, Italy 2019 (Michael Garner; Classic)

Domaine Berthet-Bondet, Château-Chalon, Jura, France 2014 (Thierry Meyer; Classic)

Gaia Wines, Clay Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece 2017 (Julie Sheppard; Offbeat)

Marco Felluga, Amani Friulano, Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy 2021 (Alessandra Piubello; Classic)

Remírez de Ganuza, Olagar Gran Reserva Blanco, Alava, Rioja, Spain 2014 (Laura Bianco; Offbeat)

Shaw + Smith, M3 Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia 2021 (Justin Knock MW; Classic)

95 points

Caravaglio, Chianu Cruci Bianco, Salina, Sicily, Italy 2021 (Peter Liem; Offbeat)

Escala Humana, Credo Semillon, El Peral, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina 2018 (Alejandro Iglesias; Offbeat)

Le Clos du Gravillas, A Fleur de Peau Muscat, Languedoc, France 2020 (Natalie Earl; Offbeat)

Manzone, Rossese Bianco, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy 2018 (James Button; Value)

Mount Pleasant, Cellar Aged Elizabeth Semillon, Hunter Valley, New South Wales, Australia 2014 (Sonja van Praag; Value)

Rascallion Wines, The Devonian Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa 2021 (Malu Lambert; Value)

Vignerons de Plaimont, Les Cépages Préservés Saint-Mont, Gascony, France 2019 (Ines Salpico; Value)

94 points

Borgo San Daniele di Mauri Mauro, Arbis Blanc, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy 2019 (Richard Baudains; Classic)

Château Grand Village, Blanc, Bordeaux, France 2019 (Georgie Hindle; Value)

Decugnano dei Barbi, Mare Antico Orvieto Classico, Umbria, Italy 2019 (Michaela Morris; Value)

Fattoria le Pupille, Piemme, Tuscany, Italy 2018 (James Button; Offbeat)

Lis Neris, Lis, Friuli Isonzo, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy 2017 (Gabriela Colotto; Classic)

Lyrarakis, Psarades Dafni, Alagni, Crete, Greece 2021 (Demetri Walters MW; Value)

Marangona, Trecampane, Lugana, Lombardy, Italy 2019 (Richard Baudains; Value)

Pyramid Valley, Lion’s Tooth Chardonnay, North Canterbury, New Zealand 2019 (Tina Gellie; Classic)

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards, Green Lizard Grüner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley, Oregon, USA 2019 (Stacy Slinkard; Offbeat)

Villa Maria, Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Chardonnay, Awatere Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand 2020 (Rupert Owen; Value)

93 points

Cantina Terlano, Tradition Gewürztraminer, Alto Adige, Italy 2021 (Susan Hulme MW; Value)

Domaine Emilian Gillet, Quintaine Viré-Clessé, Burgundy, France 2019 (Charles Curtis MW; Value)

Edi Simčič, Malvazija, Goriška Brda, Slovenia 2020 (Caroline Gilby MW; Value)

Pieropan, Calvarino Soave, Veneto, Italy 2020 (Monty Waldin; Classic)

Podrumi Vukoje 1982, Carsko Vino, Bosnia & Herzegovina 2018 (Darrel Joseph; Offbeat)

Thomas Niedermayr, Sonnrain, Alto Adige, Italy 2018 (Richard Baudains; Offbeat)

Tsiakkas Winery, Promara, Pitsilia, Lemosos, Cyprus 2020 (Demetri Walters MW; Offbeat)

92 points

C’an Verdura, Ca Ses Rosetes Giró Ros, Mallorca, Spain 2021 (Ferran Centelles; Value)

Johannes Zillinger, Perpetuum Blanc, Niederösterreich, Austria 2019 (Monty Waldin; Offbeat)

Louis Latour, Ardèche Chardonnay, Southeast France 2019 (Andrew Jefford; Value)

91 points

Du Toitskloof, Fairtrade Chenin Blanc, Western Cape, South Africa 2021 (Jim Budd; Value)

90 points

Federico Graziani, Mareneve Bianco, Etna, Sicily, Italy 2018 (Justin Knock MW; Offbeat)

Girard Winery, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California, USA 2021 (Jonathan Cristaldi; Value)

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Tina Gellie has worked for Decanter since 2008 across a number of editorial roles and is currently the brand's Content Director. An awarded wine writer and editor, she won several scholarships on the way to getting her WSET Diploma, and is a freeman of The Worshipful Company of Distillers. She has worked in wine publishing since 2003, including as Deputy Editor and Acting Editor of Wine International. Before her wine career she was a newspaper journalist for broadsheets in London and Australia.

Wines of the Year 2022: the top whites