GettyImages-2158288171.jpg
Picture
(Image credit: Asier Pinel Guillerna / Getty Images)

Rioja

This was the year to fall in love with Rioja all over again. The DOCa marked its 100th anniversary – a momentous celebration that served as a reminder, on the one hand, of the region’s long winemaking tradition (going much further back than these 100 years) and, on the other, of its capacity to evolve and remain not merely relevant but firmly at the forefront of contemporary wine.

Serendipitously coinciding with the centenary, the inaugural Decanter Rioja report (in the May issue’s annual Rioja supplement) allowed us to experience, first hand and in great depth, the vibrancy, diversity and sheer quality of the region’s output.

Our extensive tasting exceeded our best expectations. Among the top scorers were established icons but also ‘young guns’; in tandem, these are expanding the region’s already impressive canon, across colours and styles, well beyond the obvious and expected.

The rise of Rioja’s whites is particularly of note, with all-time classics – not least CVNE’s inimitable Monopole Clásico Gran Reserva – rubbing shoulders with modern jewels such as El Pacto’s Jesús Acha.

There was of course no shortage of gems on the red front; we were blown away by the transparency and nuance of Carlos Sánchez’s La Bendecida and Miguel Merino’s La Quinta Cruz (which also makes the strongest of cases for the potential of the Mazuelo variety).

Rioja also shone closer to home, at Decanter’s tasting suite in London. We hosted producer Remírez de Ganuza at one of our ‘Decanter Presents…’ events, and bodeguero José Urtasun brought an outstanding lineup that included UV, a truly fresh (all puns intended) take on the Tempranillo variety.

We’re already looking forward to our 2026 report! And here’s to 100 years more.

Portugal & Spain (beyond Rioja)

DEC310.raul_moreno._m3a2128_credit_abel_valdenebro.jpg

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

How hard – and painfully unfair – to select only five wines for this broad section. And in a year that has delivered a memorable array of standout bottles from across the Iberian peninsula, where producers big and small are leveraging today’s many challenges to refine and assert their sense of identity.

The tough trading times have validated the efforts of those who eschew trends and remain true to themselves, reinventing tradition without losing sight of it – elements fundamental to producing wines at once timeless and excitingly modern.

The latter could definitely be said of Kopke’s 80 Year Old Tawny Port and Alves de Sousa’s Memórias; both pay tribute, in different but equally compelling ways, to the heritage of the Douro.

Tradition reinvented and classic modernity were also running themes across our inaugural Ribera del Duero report (see October 2025 issue). Among the top-scoring wines was Francisco Barona’s Finca Las Dueñas – a Reserva like no other, of robust, nuanced elegance, as charismatic as Barona himself.

Much further south, in Jerez, a new generation of equally talented vignerons is producing some of Spain’s most exciting bottles: Vinos de Pasto are the unfortified wines being produced from the same grape (Palomino Fino) and terroirs as Sherry.

I was blown away by Raúl Moreno’s (pictured above) perfect encapsulations of technical precision and maverick questioning of stylistic assumptions. Meanwhile, Juvé & Camps brought Spain’s sparkling excellence to our tasting suite for our first ‘Decanter Presents…’ event (in late October at our London W2 offices).

And the producer didn’t disappoint: during the session we tasted the standout Cava La Capella – produced exclusively from Xarel.lo, it was another affirmation of Spain’s indigenous varieties.

The best wines are, more than drinks, unforgettable experiences; these five, and many others, will linger long in my memory.


Wines of the year 2025: Spain & Portugal

Wines from Rioja are listed first then the rest of the peninsula


Rioja Report 2025: Notes on a tasting a century in the making

Ribera del Duero Report 2025: The wines redefining this premium Spanish region

Collector’s Guide: Spain

CVNE, Monopole Clásico Gran Reserva, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2018

My wines
Locked score

Amber in colour, this is a beautiful interpretation of aged white Rioja with a really extended ageing period. A Viura-dominant blend sourced from dry-farmed and low-yielding, east-facing vines in Villalba, it is fermented in 300L and 500L barrels then aged for 60 months in used Rioja barrels and older, larger botas, and the wine is bottled without clarification. There is a wonderful sweetness from the oak which captivates but it is very fresh and lifted, even after all its time in barrel and bottle. Lemon curd, apple and baking spice create a luscious mouthfeel with a slightly waxy finish.

2018

Northern SpainSpain

CVNERioja

Decanter Premium logo

Join Decanter Premium to unlock all our wines tastings and notes

Join Now

Viñedos El Pacto, Jesús Acha, Senda de Haro Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2018

My wines
Locked score

Subtle reduction, with struck-match aromas, add complexity to the wine. While it's reminiscent of top Burgundy, I'm hesitant to make that comparison because this is stunning in its own right. The palate is saline with fabulous texture. Mouthfilling, but supported by impressive acidity. This is a fantastic Viura (blended with small amounts of Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca, Jaina and others), reinterpreted for modern times. Senda de Haro is in Cárdenas, Rioja Alta, and is a 0.47ha plot, planted in 1912 on ferrous clay, that was a favourite of local grower Jésus Acha. A six-hour skin maceration precedes spontaneous fermentation then ageing for 18 months in second-use barrels from France and eastern Europe.

2018

Northern SpainSpain

Viñedos El PactoRioja

Decanter Premium logo

Join Decanter Premium to unlock all our wines tastings and notes

Join Now

Carlos Sánchez, La Bendecida, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022

My wines
Locked score

Bright and lively with beautiful floral notes and a broody, inviting, seductive nature. It offers a lightness of touch with a strong, muscular structure. A touch of sour fruit, with rhubarb and pomegranate, but underpinned with earthy tones of beetroot. There is grip on the finish but it is somewhat ethereal and incredibly moreish. Tempranillo and Garnacha with Viura, grown on a 0.2ha plot at about 500m in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, fermented in stainless steel tanks then matured for 15 months in used Burgundy barrels before bottling without filtration. Farmed biodynamically.

2022

Northern SpainSpain

Carlos SánchezRioja

Decanter Premium logo

Join Decanter Premium to unlock all our wines tastings and notes

Join Now

Miguel Merino, La Quinta Cruz Mazuelo, Rioja, Alta, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022

My wines
Locked score

Immediately inviting, this Mazuelo offers intense varietal characteristics with wild strawberries and mint aromas that opens to a silky, velvety palate with just the right amount of tannic lift. The texture is wonderfully appealing, with a touch of stony grip. Poised and refined, it is a unique take on a cooler zone of Rioja with this different variety. Grown on a steep, southeast-facing slope in Briones, Rioja Alta: a 1.2ha vineyard planted in 1986 on thin sandy-gravel soils topped by rounded pebbles. Fermented in a small stainless-steel tank, with malolactic fermentation in two 500L French oak barrels and one 1,300L concrete tank, where it remained for 12 months before bottling.

2022

Northern SpainSpain

Miguel MerinoRioja

Decanter Premium logo

Join Decanter Premium to unlock all our wines tastings and notes

Join Now

Remírez de Ganuza, UV, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022

My wines
Locked score

Remírez de Ganuza's only single varietal Tempranillo, first released in 2017, delivers another pure, transparent expression of the variety. Lifted by fragrant violets, crushed rose petals and wild strawberry, the flavours is moreish and juicy, with tomato compote, red cherry jam, pomegranate and cranberry. Lively and frank, this is dangerously drinkable, gliding through the palate and living a mouthwatering, zesty trail.

2022

Northern SpainSpain

Remírez de GanuzaRioja

Decanter Premium logo

Join Decanter Premium to unlock all our wines tastings and notes

Join Now

Juvé y Camps, La Capella Paraje Calificado Brut Nature, Cava de Paraje Calificado, Catalonia, Spain, 2011

My wines
Locked score

The potential of Xarel·lo to produce world class sparkling wines is on show here. The silky mousse carries the rich flavours of honey, candied lemon, ripe pear, yellow apple and guava. The wide mid-palate is fleshed out by frangipane, buttered toast and apple strudel. Herbal nuances of wild fennel and oregano, spiced with white pepper.

2011

CataloniaSpain

Juvé y CampsCava de Paraje Calificado

Decanter Premium logo

Join Decanter Premium to unlock all our wines tastings and notes

Join Now

Alves de Sousa, Memórias, Douro, Douro Valley, Portugal

My wines
Locked score

This wine serves as a dynamic repository of the best vintages and plots of the 2010s. It blends, in a solera system, stand out parcels from vintages deemed of enough quality – in this decade 2011, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19. According to winemaker Tiago Alves de Sousa, it translates the best of the Tawny tradition into an unfortified Douro – and what a wine this is. At once complex and drinkable it has all its elements in perfect yet dynamic balance. The tannins are muscular but seductively velvety and there’s a deft layering of ripe back fruit, dried red berries, tobacco, Assam and juicy prunes. A filigree veil of star anise, cardamom, cinnamon and salty liquorice adds tingling vividness. Drinking superbly, especially if allowed to unfurl in the glass, but with a long and great life ahead.

Douro ValleyPortugal

Alves de SousaDouro

Decanter Premium logo

Join Decanter Premium to unlock all our wines tastings and notes

Join Now

Francisco Barona, Finca las Dueñas Reserva, Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2021

My wines
Locked score

Such an alluring nose of graphite, leather and liquorice, with fragrant mountain herbs in the background. The palate follows with juicy plum, red cherry and roasted peppers topped with cocoa nibs and salty liquorice. Tomato leaf and Earl Grey add intrigue and depth. Vibrant, with a finely-honed structure and superb integration of wood, tannins and alcohol. The mineral freshness carries it through to the long finish.

2021

Castilla y LéonSpain

Francisco BaronaRibera del Duero

Decanter Premium logo

Join Decanter Premium to unlock all our wines tastings and notes

Join Now

Raúl Moreno, La Pretensión, Jerez, Vino de Pasto, Andalucia, Spain, 2022

My wines
Locked score

Skin-macerated for three weeks and aged in Cognac barrels, this is a Moscatel like no other, with outstanding complexity and incredible aromatic detail. Oily unctuosity wraps the nectarine, red apple, kumquat, loquat and peach fruit, with jasmine and orange blossom hovering and nutmeg, lavender and cherry leaf lining the seams. Saline and mouthwatering. Pleasant lingering bitterness of orange pith and cherry pits.

2022

AndaluciaSpain

Raúl MorenoJerez

Decanter Premium logo

Join Decanter Premium to unlock all our wines tastings and notes

Join Now

Kopke, 80 Year Old Tawny, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal

My wines
Locked score

Extraordinary depth, balance and nuance in a wine that is more an experience than a drink. Linear, vivid acid carries the dense flavours of dried apricot, loquat, poached cherries and strawberry jam. At the core there's unctuous plum sorbet, meaty walnut, salted caramel and melting dark chocolate. Over it all, hovers a dense, perfumed layer of mahogany, cherry leaves, crushed violets and camphor with a smokey seam of Rooibos, coffee and peat. Very long finish with tingling nutmeg, white pepper and cinnamon.

Douro ValleyPortugal

KopkePort

Decanter Premium logo

Join Decanter Premium to unlock all our wines tastings and notes

Join Now
Ines Salpico
Editor

Ines is Decanter’s regional editor for Spain, Portugal and South America. Born and raised in Lisbon, Portugal, she grew up chasing her grandfather among his vines in Ribatejo and thus her love for all things wine began. After completing her Masters Degree in Architecture, Ines worked as a project manager while writing about wine and doing cellar consulting on the side. After moving to London in 2015, she decided to dedicate herself fully to the wine industry and joined the sommelier team at Michelin-starred Spring, Somerset House. Stints at Noble Rot and The Laughing Heart followed, while completing her WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits. Her work as a judge and writer eventually became her full time commitment and she joined Decanter in 2019 as wine database editor.