Zweigelt homeland: Neusiedlersee DAC regional profile and wines to try

The region by the lake

Located on the northeastern tip of Burgenland, southeast Austria, the Neusiedlersee region borders the ‘Lake Neusiedl’ to the west, with Slovenia and Hungary to the east.

The first record to today’s Neusiedlersee, which covers a part of the political district ‘Neusiedl am See’, can be traced back to 1074 when it was under the Hungarian name ‘Stagnum Ferteu’.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 14 Neusiedlersee wines worth seeking out

Through the centuries, there have been multiple attempts to drain Lake Neusiedl to create farmland.

The borderline of the lake, therefore, receded significantly inland. The extension of the lake played a crucial role in shaping the soil of the region, especially the ‘Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel’ sub-area (see map), which used to be underwater.

Facts about Neusiedlersee*

· Plantings: 6,700ha. 51% the total of Burgenland

· Key varieties: 51% white and 49% red.

Red: 24% Zweigelt, 9.3% Blaufränkisch, 4.2% St Laurent

White: 11.1% Welschriesling, 10.4% Grüner Veltliner, 6.6% Chardonnay, 4.7% Weissburgunder

· Soil: Silty-sandy, quartz-rich gravel, overlain by loam

· Sub-regions:

– North: Neusiedlersee-Wagram. Average altitude ~160m

– South east: Neusiedlersee-Heideboden. Average altitude ~ 120m

– South west by the lake: Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel. Average altitude ~ 120m

· Key viticultural towns: Gols, Mönchhof, Halbturn, Podersdorf, Frauenkirchen, Illmitz, Apetlon, Andau.

· DAC/DAC Reserve: Established in 2012 for single varietal Zweigelt. From 2020 it also covers sweet white wines (Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese as ‘Reserve’).

*Source: Neusiedlersee DAC, Geological Survey of Austria, Wine Austria

Location and climate

As one of the sunniest spots in Austria, Neusiedlersee enjoys over 300 days of sunshine per year.

Blessed by its natural beauty, the lakeside region was awarded World Heritage sites status by UNESCO in 2001.

At the heart of the ‘Pannonian’ climate zone, Neusiedlersee enjoys hot, dry summers and cold, snowless winters, allowing red wine grapes to ripen fully with condensed flavours.

Compared to Leithaberg DAC on the west bank of Lake Neusiedl, the moderating effect of the lake is more apparent in Neusiedlersee, as the wind blows north-westernly.

The lake’s large water surface, combined with small to medium-sized salt and soda basins dotted in the southern part of the region, ensures cooling nights so the grapes can retain a good level of acidity.

Meanwhile, the region’s foggy autumns encourage the development of noble rot, nurturing a range of premium sweet whites that have put the Seewinkel subregion on the map.

However, what truly makes the Neusiedlersee region special is its natural water source.

‘The composition of the groundwater is quite unique,’ said Torsten Aumüller, managing director of Neusiedlersee DAC, ‘(There is) a high content of Graubensalz (Na₂SO₄), Kochsalz (NaCl) and especially Speisesoda (NaHCO₃), which favours the development of alcaic salt & soda basins – especially in the Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel sub-area.’

The groundwater differs from other regions because of the underground mineral water lake, added Aumüller. The underground lake, discovered by the locals in 1955, is the biggest of its kind in central Europe (250km²).

‘On the ground surface, Lake Neusiedl is also a salt-bearing lake, with 1/20 of the salinity of the Mediterranean sea.’

The salinity in water is believed to be linked to the slight salty tone in wines produced in the area, according to the regional body.

The Zweigelt homeland

In 2012, the Neusiedlersee DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) was established for single-varietal red wines made from the Zweigelt grape variety.

A ‘Reserve’ category was also set up to merit those with over 18 months of ageing in oak (large or small).

As with the DAC, Zweigelt is also relatively ‘young’ in the wine world.

The red grape, then named ‘Rotburger’, was created by Dr Fritz Zweigelt in 1922 by crossing Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent.

Half a century later, it was renamed after its creator and gradually became the most widely planted red wine grape in Austria.

Now the country has 6,426ha of the versatile red grape, accounting for 13.8% of Austria’s total land under vines.

Burgenland and Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) hold the highest concentration of plantings.

Zweigelt certainly adapts well to the sunny lakeside region, responsible for opulent single-varietal reds of violet colour, spiced black cherry fruits, soft tannins and a fine line of acidity.

With more quality-centric winemaking and extended ageing, with or without the use of oak, it can also put on more muscles and complexity.

The fruity red is also a common blending partner to local and international varieties.

Different from other Zweigelt strongholds such as Carnuntum DAC of lower Austria and Rosalia DAC of Burgenland, Neusiedlersee DAC tends to merit ‘darker, sweeter and mellow’ fruit flavours, said Aumüller.

Top sites and producers

Besides premium sweet whites ranging from Spätlese to noble rot versions, the still-youthful DAC is keen to establish a specialist reputation for Zweigelt.

‘Starting with around 56 winemakers in 2012 (first vintage 2011), now there are more than 110 winemakers producing, bottling and promoting Zweigelt as Neusiedlersee DAC and/or Neusiedlersee DAC Reserve,’ according to the regional body.

Following a national drive to identify the top terroirs for Austria’s signature varieties such as Grüner Veltliner, producers in Neusiedlersee DAC are also in constant search for the best single vineyards (marked on the label as ‘Ried’) for Zweigelt.

‘I like very much Ried Ungerberg, a site between Weiden am See and Gols,’ said Dirceu Vianna Junior MW.

‘Another site, also in Gols, that is historically well known and has great potential is Ried Salzberg.’

‘Ried Königswiese in Mönchhof will surprise most people as the topsoil is reminiscent of some of the vineyards we see in Châteauneuf du Pape. It is completely covered with large round stones, although these are a little smaller in Austria. These wines can be powerful, full-bodied, display lovely texture, balancing freshness and have the potential to age gracefully.’

 5 Neusiedlersee producers to watch

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW’s top picks:

· Franz Schneider (Artisan Wines)

· Markus Iro

· Christoph Salzl (Salzl Seewinkelhof)

· Markus Lentsch (Lentsch)

· Georg Preisinger

Why is Neusiedlersee DAC worth exploring now?

‘This area has the capability to be recognised as one of the important areas for red wine production in Austria,’ said the MW.

‘It has been historically shunned by critics and in my opinion, it has not been given necessary credit for the quality of its wine. I love the diversity the region can offer. Zweigelt from this area has the potential to become the New Gruner Veltliner story. The variety can make soft and easy-drinking wines for early drinking; it can make serious reds that are age-worthy and perform well in blends.’

See tasting notes and scores for 14 Neusiedlersee wines worth seeking out

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