Nizza, unlike the other Barbera-focused appellations of Piedmont – Barbera d’Asti and Barbera d’Alba – does not state the variety in its name. Instead, Nizza is a terroir wine in the French tradition, identified by its place of origin rather than its grape. First recognised as an official sub-zone of Barbera d’Asti DOC (later DOCG) in 2000, Nizza became a DOCG in its own right in 2014. The production regulations of the DOCG, drawn up by the dynamic Associazione Produttori del Nizza, aim at uncompromising quality and are among the most demanding of any in the country.
Nizza must be made from 100% Barbera, sourced exclusively from vineyards on south-, southeast- or southwest-facing slopes. Yields must not exceed very low limits for the standard DOCG, and even lower ones for the Riserva and Vigna (single-vineyard) categories. The minimum period of ageing is 18 months, of which for 30 months, with a full year in wood. The 18 villages that comprise the DOCG lie in the heart of Monferrato, in an area of gently undulating hills crossed by the valleys of three rivers: the Nizza, the Belbo and the Tiglione.
Soils are marine sedimentary, with local differences determined by the predominance of either clay or sand. On the basis of a detailed geological survey, the Associazione Produttori divides the DOCG into three macro-areas or sectors. The most densely planted central sector, which stretches across the Belbo valley from Agliano Terme in the west to Mombaruzzo in the east, has marls with typically higher clay content. In contrast, the northern sector, around the village of Vinchio, has generally sandier soils, while sandstone characterises the terrains of Calamandrana and Castel Boglione in the southeast corner of the DOCG.
Each sector has its own character. Wines from the centre tend to be more structured and earthier; while those from the north are generally fresher, with bright floral and fruit aromas; and wines from the sandstones of the southeast stand out for their depth and longevity. The following selection reflects the terroir-driven nuances of a DOCG that over the past ten years has gained an assured place among the élite of Piemontese wine.
Six Nizza wines to try
Southern Sector
Marenco, Riserva Zana 2020
From the Zana vineyard, located at 420m elevation at Castel Boglione, this is a single cru Riserva produced only in top vintages. Its intense ruby shade, violet nose and vibrant palate are hallmarks of a thoroughbred Barbera. Drinking now, but with the structure to age well. Alc 14.5%
Isolabella della Croce, Augusta 2018
www.isolabelladellacroce.it/en
From vineyards in the comune of Calamandrana, this is in fact a Riserva in all but name: the wine is aged for up to two years in barriques and then again in bottle prior to release. On the nose, it offers complex aromas of damp earth, carob and fig; the palate is full-bodied, ripe and mineral. Alc 15%
Northern Sector
Cossetti, Crivelletto 2021
Crivelletto is one of Castelnuovo Belbo’s historic crus, and the excellent 2021 vintage has the classic varietal aromas of violets and dark berries alongside a suggestion of cocoa powder. The palate is firm and grippy, with great concentration of fruit, a succulent, juicy progression and a tangy finish. Alc 14%
Tenuta Olim Bauda, Riserva 2020
This organic estate produces its Nizza from 60 year-old vines at Incisa Scappaccino. The 2020 starts reticently, then opens with aromas of dark blossoms, sour plum, cassis and a hint of button mushrooms. On the palate there is impressive power and depth, with a velvety tannic weave supported by firm acidity. Alc 15.5%
Centre
Marco Bonfante, Bricco Bonfante Riserva 2019
www.marcobonfante.com/index.php
This very refined Riserva takes its name from a 1.5ha hilltop vineyard that has been in the family for eight generations. Moss, wet stone, then dark blossom and wild berries with a touch of smokiness emerge on the nose. The dynamic palate shows great concentration, with fine-knit tannins and a minerally twist behind the ripe fruit. Alc 15.5%
Gianni Doglia, Viti Vecchie 2021
Winemaker Gianni Doglia makes this small-production, old-vine selection from a 50-year-old plot at Nizza. The dense ruby-violet shade is the prelude to a nose of earthy complexity, with notes of mulberry and autumn leaves. There’s great purity of fruit on the palate, with depth, structure, energy and a long, mineral finish. True terroir wine. Alc 15%
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