Ultimate Rioja: Excellence rooted in tradition; elegance born of innovation

Rioja, one of the most renowned fine wine regions and a staple in cellars the world over, is perhaps not fully appreciated for the wealth of landscapes it encompasses and the diversity of styles it produces. Rioja is indeed a place where tradition goes hand in hand with innovation, with producers continuously striving to find the best, and therefore diverse, ways to express the grapes and terroirs that make up the region.

With the town of Logroño as its epicentre, Rioja is divided into three zones along the river Ebro: Rioja Alta, west of Logroño; Rioja Alavesa, north of the river Ebro; Rioja Oriental, to the south and east of Logroño. The region is sheltered by the Sierra de Cantabria to the north and west, protecting it from the rain-bearing Atlantic winds, and the Sierra de la Demanda to the south.

Wine culture is inextricable from the region’s identity and the history and stories of its communities; Rioja is the ultimate example of a landscape shaped by nature as much as by man, to create the strong, yet multifaceted, identity that also shapes its wines.

The Ultimate Rioja tasting emerged as an effort to shed light on some of the finest wines of Rioja and thereby showcase the diversity of styles produced as well as the skills and passion of the region’s growers and winemakers. Below you’ll find the wines which the Ultimate Rioja panel, composed of some of the wine industry’s leading experts deemed to be the best in class from those entries submitted to the competition. These wines were selected from seven of Rioja’s stylistic categories; fine wines with complexity, individual character and strong imprint of the place and the vintage they hail from.

The tasting panel, chaired by Sarah Jane Evans MW, included Christine Parkinson, Laure Patry, Beth Willard, Ronan Sayburn MS, Simon Field MW, Joe Wadsack and Raul Diaz. This group of experts tasted over 300 wines, within the following categories: White, Rosado, Generic, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva and Viñedo Singular.

According to Sarah Jane Evans MW the tasting ‘was a great showcase of Rioja’s diversity.’ The panel’s chair highlighted the quality across categories: ‘There were fresh, complex whites, and the more mature the better. Some seriously good Rosados. The relatively new Viñedos Singular category made its first appearance. Some fine Crianzas. And a selection of lovely classic Gran Reservas. We can’t miss the Reservas and Generics either. In all it was a great day.’

The tasting notes illustrate how the viticultural heritage of Rioja is a dynamic and ever-evolving reality, producing wines of modern elegance rooted in tradition.

Ultimate Rioja tasting – the best in class:

Blanco

Vina Ijalba 2019

RRP £15 Vintage Roots

Alive with ripe peaches, pear and apricots with a creamy, buttery palate with notes of exotic fruits. Balanced acidity and a persistent finish. Alc 13.5%

Solar Viejo de Laguardia, Orube 2018

RRP £13 Freixenet Copestick

Complex: honeyed and nutty with hints of truffle and mushroom as well as floral notes, melon, peach. Well balanced with a long finish. Alc 12.5%

Bodegas de la Marquesa, Valserrano 2015

RRP £35 Davy’s Wine

Concentrated, powerful ripe exotic fruit aromas, aromas. Balanced acidity. Nutty and creamy with a long finish. Alc 13.5%

Rosado

El Coto de Rioja, El Coto 2020

RRP £10.99 Liberty Wines

Deep salmon pink; toasty aromas; textured, with slight spritz, fresh, interesting. Leafy, savoury raw plum fruit opens out to a long, creamy finish. Alc 13%

Marqués de Cáceres, Excellens de Marqués de Cáceres 2020

RRP £10.99 Fine Wines Direct

Pale pink, with a rich core of fruit and cooling herbs. Chunky and serious, with supple texture and long finish. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Alvia, Livius Rosado Fermentado en Barrica 2018

RRP £26.50 Neill Wines

Pale copper pink. Waxy, petrolly aromas. Lots of oak on the palate, which is savoury sweet, juicy and creamy. Baked raspberries and creme chantilly. A lot of oak, but very appealing. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Valdelacierva, Valdelacierva 2019

RRP £10.35 Fareham Wine Cellar

Pale salmon and a very oxidative style. Warm milk and biscuits initially, with layers of fruit from ripe to green. Alc 14%

Crianza

Bodegas Riojanas, Viña Albina, Crianza 2018

RRP £13.95 Vineyards of Sherborne

Subtle discreet nose with red berries and flowers. Elegant and balanced, showing hints of nutmeg, quince and white pepper. Long finish. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas del Medievo, Medievo, Crianza 2018

RRP £13 Stainton

Hint of amber in the colour. Attractive strawberry, rosehip and spice on the nose. In the mouth, sappy finely-balanced tannins with some grip and a good length. Alc 13.5%

Rioja Vega, Crianza 2018

RRP £15 Great Grog

Expressive, attractive wine with a nose of ripe strawberries. Palate leads to juicy summer pudding flavours, dusted in cocoa and a warm succulent and gentle finish. Perfect for pairing with a roast beef rib. Alc 14%

Bodegas Castillo de Mendoza, Noralba, Crianza 2017

RRP £17.50 Amathus Drinks

Mature yet with a lively, assertive, youthful character. Resplendent with spice, raspberry and hint of white and black pepper. Elegant, long and seductive with a fine taper on the finish. Alc 14.5%

Solar Viejo de Laguardia, Orube, Crianza 2017

RRP £15 Freixenet Copestick

Warm hay and saffron notes intermingled with cherry and cranberry fruit. Palate sleek with warm cinnamon spice and a fresh spicy finish. Alc 14.5%

Bodegas Navajas, Crianza 2016

RRP £15 Walker & Wodehouse

Harmonious nose that instantly says Rioja. Integrated, sappy, vanilla American oak and bright cherry and banana fruit. Moreish balsamic finish. Alc 14%

Hacienda El Ternero, Crianza 2015

RRP £19.95 Ellis Wines

Nose of damson, plum and wild strawberry, hints of citrus and straw. The palate is broad, traditional, with an impressive weight of brooding dark fruit and a balsamic kick. Plenty of gastronomic potential. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Crianza 2015

RRP £18 Justerini & Brooks

Bright vermillion in colour. Benchmark nose of smoke, raspberry, prune and dried fruit, then a broad welcoming palate which is silky, indulgent and long. Alc 14%

Reserva

Barón de Ley, Reserva 2016

RRP £15.99 Tesco, Co-op, Costco

Violets and honeycomb over a core of raspberry compote; balanced and harmonious, with a long life ahead. Good structure and length. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Muga, Muga Reserva 2017

RRP £28.99 Ultracomida

Inviting, spicy, Christmas pudding aromas with vivid rose petal and red plum flavours with a saline edge. Balanced, firm and supple, with a long, sandy finish. Alc 14%

Bodegas LAN, Culmen, Reserva 2015

RRP £72.99 Vin Neuf

Vividly spicy with hints of cloves, cassia, szechuan pepper on nose and palate; then black cherry and prune fruit. Fine-grained, savoury and long. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Faustino, Faustino Icon, Reserva 2016

RRP £30 Cellar Trends

Nicely layered with rich berry and cassis fruit; sweet, chewy, coconut oak, savoury. Almost salty finish. Complex. Alc 14%

Viña Ijalba, Reserva 2015

RRP £17 Vintage Roots

Pretty, floral aromas; balsamic and toasty, with black plums and a touch of lime leaf. Sandalwood at the end. Terrific concentration, length and balance. Alc 14%

Bodegas Miguel Merino, Reserva 2015

RRP £35 Davy’s Wine Merchants

Compact and vibrant, with sweet coconut oak, ripe damson and raspberry, and a long finish. Alc 14%

Gran Reserva

Barón de Ley, Gran Reserva 2014

RRP £25.99 Waitrose

The classic, dignified nose showing notes of smoke, figs and hints of blueberry essence. Fine seam of acidity running through it. The palate is broad with an elegant, delicate finish. Poise and precision and gastronomic potential. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Manzanos, Manzanos, Gran Reserva 2014

RRP £25.50 Alliance Wine

Crepuscular, elegant colour, hint of amber at the rim. Charming nose of wild strawberry. An elegant, sweet, broad and powerful wine. Alc 13.5%

El Coto de Rioja, Coto de Imaz, Gran Reserva 2014

RRP £25 Liberty Wines

Nose of mulled winter spices, surrounding the aromas of sour cherry and mulberry. Svelte and sleek palate. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Cosme Palacio, Glorioso, Gran Reserva 2014

RRP £23.35 Amazon

Deep well of profound red fruit including mulberries, plum and winter spice. Palate has intensity, latent power and effortless balance. Alc 14%

La Rioja Alta, Viña Arana, Gran Reserva 2014

RRP £35.08 The Wine Society

Beautiful patina of garnet and bronze. Nose of buttery digestive biscuits, baked bramble and rosehip compote, leading to a deliciously sleek mouth-watering finish. Superb. Alc 14.5%

CVNE, Imperial, Gran Reserva 2012

RRP £49.89 North and South Wines

Generous strawberry fruit character with notes of spice, herbs and hints of vanilla. Palate has grippy, slightly rustic tannins and feels ripe yet pleasingly restrained. A wine with plenty more to give. Alc 14%

Bodegas Bilbaínas, Viña Pomal, Gran Reserva 2012

RRP £30.40 Amazónico London, Boquería

Pure on the nose. A multi-layered wine with clean, crisp fruit and hints of autumn, wild strawberry fruit, sour cherry, quince and forest floor, spice and peat. Attractive, fully resolved tannins and a very long finish. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Muriel, Viña Muriel, Gran Reserva 2011

RRP £25 Dulwich Vintners

Showing an amber rim in the glass, leading into notes of ripe strawberry fruit. A beautifully balanced wine with powerful elegant tannins, firm acidity and a fine structure. Alc 14%

Bodegas Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña, Gran Reserva 2010

RRP £45 Savage Selection

A full, rich, complex Gran Reserva with elegant strawberry, Morello cherry, hints of tar and licorice, as well as fig, spice and a lovely crisp finish. Plenty of time ahead. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Ontañón, Ontañón, Gran Reserva 2010

RRP £27.50 Camber Wines

Mature integrated nose belies the youthful, if not particularly dark colour. Palate is a perfect blend of gentle fruit and sweet oak. Ready to go. Alc 14%

Generic

Bodegas y Viñedos Leza García, LG de Leza Garcia 2016

RRP £29.24 Hattersley Fine Wines

Really well balanced oak, fruit and fresh acidity. Chocolatey finish, graphite. Alc 14%

Asúa, Real de Asúa 2016

RRP £70 Farr Vintners

Lovely red berry nose with a hint of sweetness, chocolate and vanilla. Herbal, with notes of rosemary. Really well balanced, good use of oak, mocha flavours and rich fruit with just enough grippy tannin. Will age further. Alc 14%

Bodegas Bilbaínas, Viña Pomal Alto de la Caseta 2016

RRP £80.20 Hedonism

Chocolate, coffee notes on nose. Really well balanced, rounded, intense, spicy. Well managed tannins. Alc 14.5%

Bodegas Navajas, Antonio Navajas 2015

RRP £30 Walker & Wodehouse

Complex. Herbal with notes of forest floor and red berry fruit. Lovely classic balance of sweet fruit and acidity, elegant use of oak. Really refined with potential to age further. Alc 14%

Altos de Rioja, Altos R Pigeage 2018

RRP £25 Laithwaite’s

Complex nose with intense red berry fruit, chocolate notes and spice. Palate is layered, concentrated, and flinty. Oak is prominent but not dominant. Fresh finish with woody and forest spice, and loads of black pepper. A serious wine. Alc 14.5%

Bodegas y Viñedos Pujanza, Pujanza Cisma 2015

RRP £121 Gourmet Hunters

Nose is appealing with earthy, smoky notes, and a hint of chocolate. Very fresh on palate. A little warm on the finish but otherwise very classy. Alc 14.5%

Viñedo singular

Bodegas Juan Carlos Sancha, Cerro La Isa Blanco 2019

RRP £50 Woodwinters

Alluring floral, citrus and green apple character with refreshing acidity and a great structure. Lovely now, and a bright future ahead. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Juan Carlos Sancha, Cerro La Isa Garnacha 2018

RRP £50 Woodwinters

Savoury, meaty and gamey with candied fruits, ripe tannins, great length and acidity. Delicious wine. Alc 14.5%

Wines seeking UK distribution

Blanco

Bodegas Lozano, Lozano 2019

RRP £28

A great example of a white Rioja with floral notes and hints of beeswax. A toasty, creamy, complex wine with a long finish. Alc 13%

Viñedos Ruiz Jiménez, Pago de Valcaliente 2016

RRP £22

A fresh, youthful style, floral, aromatic, nutty, with bright acidity, some tropical fruits and a spicy finish. Alc 14%

Bodegas Vinícola Real, 200 Monges 2010

RRP £35

Youthful, with layers of white flowers, ripe stone fruits balanced by some toasty oak and a creamy texture. Alc 13%

Crianza

Bodegas Aradón, Calzadas de Aradón Crianza 2016

RRP £12

Roasted, meaty character on the nose leading to a generous exotic palate of prunes, sumac and vanilla oak. Alc 14.5%

Gran Reserva

Bodegas Vinícola Real, 200 Monges Gran Reserva 2005

RRP £45

Still remarkably youthful to look at, with a delicious mouthwatering jampot of summer pudding flavours and a moreish but fully mature finish. Alc 14.5%

Generic

Viña del Lentisco, Villota 2016

RRP £33.75

Very intense red fruits, some spice, well handled oak although quite prominent. A big, rich wine with lots of fruit and oak, but balanced. Chewy finish that will probably round out. Alc 14%

Marqués de Vargas Family Vineyards & Cellars, Selección Privada 2016

RRP £56

Lovely balance between fruit and oak. Fresh and fruity. Alc 14.55%

Bodegas Tierra, Tierra Fidel Tinto 2015

RRP £37.50

Red cherry, fresh, quite elegant. Acidity prominent but balanced, clean and bright finish. Juicy on finish but with tannin. Will age further. Alc 14%

Bodegas JER, Thaler de Plata 2015

RRP £28

Smokey notes with coffee and top quality oak. Lovely fresh balanced acidity and intense fruit with the structure of the vintage. Long, concentrated finish. Alc 14.5%

Discover more about DOCa Rioja here