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Bordeaux 2009: Decanter’s top 15 wines

Margaux 20 Fine black red, quite magical bouquet, pure quality of cashmere silkiness on the palate with a touch of fragrance from Cabernet Franc, blending softness of attack with pure density. A wine of stunning fragrance and purity, the most perfect expression imaginable of the greatest of Margaux vineyards. Drink 2016-40.
Ausone 19.5 Amazingly focused wine. Long, persistent with extremely fine, filigree tannins. Beautiful texture. Incredible density of fruit behind. Freshness on the palate (55% Cabernet Franc). Absolute harmony. Rivals the outstanding 2005. Drink 2018-2050.
Haut-Brion 19.5 Black red, satiny smooth expression of pure fruit, rich and velvety texture with firm tannins that show up after the concentrated fragrance of pure vineyard fruit, beautiful structure and almost massive for Haut-Brion, but this robustness will assure a great and fascinating future. Drink 2016-45.
Lafite-Rothschild 19.5 Black purple red, elegant concentration of pure Lafite Cabernets, wild violets, succulent yet restrained fruit, both fleshy and firm, superb middle palate, not massively structured but like a Gothic cathedral: austere on the outside and soaring to great heights in the inside. Drink 2018-50.
Lafleur 19.5 As always, a measured wine – no extremes – but with the extra density of the vintage. Sublime texture. Tannins powerful but refined. Freshness and balance from the Cabernet Franc (53%). A long ageing wine of great distinction. Drink 2020-2050.
Latour 19.5 Black red, huge concentration of black fruits and great purity, wonderfully fragrant nose with wild violets and lifted freshness, great length and perfect texture, totally Latour and all the fruit and vineyard will come out over the years. Drink 2018-45
Cheval Blanc 19 This is a lovely Cheval Blanc, full of luxurious fruit as well as elegant and refined. Still a little restrained aromatically (Le Petit Cheval was the more expressive at the tasting) but smoothly textured, pure and long. Add to the list of great years at this estate. Drink 2018-2040.
l’Eglise-Clinet 19 Rich and dense but equally fresh and poised. Absolutely packed with fruit. Massive tannic frame but tannins smooth, voluptuous and suave. Aromatically reserved but clearly huge potential. Drink 2018-2045.
Léoville-Barton 19 Dense purple red, finely concentrated blackcurrant Cabernet nose with many layers of complexity, shows freshness above the controlled intensity of pure vineyard fruit, still shut in but a very great expression to come. Drink 2017-40.
Léoville-Las-Cases 19 Deep purple red, naturally concentrated bouquet over really smooth, sophisticated fruit with a taffeta lift, great purity and depth of vineyard fruit, superb elegance and length. Drink 2018-40.
la Mission Haut-Brion 19 Black red, marvellously intense expression of black fruits on the nose, slightly smoky with pure vineyard density and breed, magnificent structure, even slightly lush middle, great definition and length. Drink 2018-40.
Montrose 19 Black red, smoky cassis nose with fine Cabernet spice, quite restrained yet full of power, a really precise and true vineyard wine, superb middle sweetness, a grandly classic wine. Drink 2019-45.
Mouton-Rothschild 19 Black red, concentrated black fruits, rich satiny/velvety yet firm texture, rich, plummy, spicy, an explosion of aromas and flavours, surrounded and controlled by superb tannins, a sensually expressive wine. Drink 2016-40.
Palmer 19 Black red, deep velvety richness and wonderful concentration of black, spicy fruits on the nose, firm and powerful, fragrant and lifted, a satiny, seductive texture, great concentration, totally harmonious. Drink 2016-35.
Pétrus 19 A powerful tannic frame provides the structure, length and classicism of a grand Bordeaux but there’s also a modern purity and freshness of fruit. Winemaker Olivier Berrouet harvested slightly later, at the beginning of October, to guarantee maturity. Dense, complex and profound. Drink 2020-2050.

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