Jay Z’s ‘Ace of Spades’ Champagne: Tasting the range

The third and latest Assemblage (hence A3) of this superb Blanc de Noirs, as with all the Brignac range, an amalgam of three vintages, in this instance 2009, 2010 and 2012. The wine has had six years on its lees and was disgorged in April this year, its dosage modest at 8 g/l, its provenance including famous Grand Cru villages, Bouzy and Verzenay. This gem boasts a rich burnished gold colour then an immediately seductive nose of tobacco, fig, crème brûlée and cassis; classic Blanc de Noirs red fruit is bolstered by incredible layers of complexity; now we are in an Andalusian orange grove, now on the chalky terraces of the Marne….and so much more. Generous and yet vinous, pure yet incredibly opulent, this is a definitive statement wine and carries the reputation of the house with enormous aplomb.

<p>This cuv&eacute;e was launched last year and this is the second assemblage, hence the name. This 100% Pinot Noir is from the 2008, 2009 and 2010 vintages. The wine was disgorged on June 20 2016 and is the only cuv&eacute;e to have the disgorgement date on the back label. It&#39;s a serious foody Champagne, and while it is still very tight, it has so many layers, with aromas of ripe peach, almond and some herbal hints. Very complex, yet elegant and harmonious, it has palate-tingling acidity with a very focussed finish and amazing depth. This is far too young to drink now, but has the potential to age for a decade and will stand up to many serious dishes.</p>

By far the most voluminous of an admittedly modest range, quantity wise, this golden flagship is a blend of 2012, 2013 and 2014, relatively recently disgorged and dosed at 9 g/l, the liqueur de tirage the only component which has been oak aged. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir share the honours, the balance of 20% made up by Pinot Meunier. Beyond the green gold hue and persistent mousse there is an impressive vanillin richness, hints of acacia and buttered toast; ripe semi-tropical fruit is grounded by soft chalk, powdery yet discrete. The finish needs a little more time to settle; there is energy, which will soften, and power which will underwrite an impressive development over the next couple of years.

This cuvée was launched last year. It's a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier from the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. The wine has spent almost six years ageing in the cellar before being released. Despite having 33g/l of sugar, it's very well integrated and doesn’t taste that sweet. Lovely candied fruit and red fruit compote aromas are joined by notes of blueberries and raspberry. The palate is juicy, with a creamy texture and some white floral hints on the finish. Light, fresh and with great depth, this cuvée was designed to match exotic food. My tip is to try it with dark chocolate pudding or even Foie Gras.

This is the third addition to the range, launched around 2011. Again, it's a blend of 2009, 2010 and 2012, with 50% of the Chardonnay sourced from Cattier’s own vineyards in Montagne de Reims, and the other 50% from the Côte des Blanc - mostly from the village of Cramant. This is definitely more complex, rounder and richer than your average Blanc de Blancs. Grapefruit and white flower aromas come to mind. While opulent, it is focussed, with tremendous depth wrapped up by a backbone of acidity. A hardly noticeable dosage of 8g/l.