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Decanter travel guide: Jura, France

Heads are finally turning towards this tiny region, home to weird and wonderful wines, famed Comté cheese and picturesque scenery. Read Sue Style's Jura travel guide here.

My perfect day in Jura


After breakfast at Les Jardins sur Glantine in Poligny, head to the cellar for a tasting of Ludwig Bindernagel’s natural wines.Then wander along Poligny’s main street to charcuterie-deli Yves Brelot for cold meats, terrines and sausages, to take home or for picnic provisions. Continue to the Badoz shop on the square for a taste of the Enomaticstored wines – they also sell Comté and Mont d’Or cheeses. From Poligny, drive south on the country road that climbs to the plateau, through typical Jura farming country, past Les Délices du Plateau and south to Baume-les-Messieurs and the dramatic Cirque de Baume, where three valleys meet.


For a picnic, settle down beside the river at Névy-sur-Seille below Château-Chalon, or in Granges-sur-Baume perched above Baume-les-Messieurs with views of the abbey below. Alternatively, book lunch at Le Grand Jardin in Baume-les-Messieurs or Les 16 Quartiers in Château-Chalon.


Take a digestive walk in the vineyards of Château-Chalon, followed by a pre-booked visit to Domaine Jean Berthet-Bondet (berthet-bondet.net) – an elegant, vine-clad manor house and winery at the top of one of France’s most beautiful villages. Jean Berthet- Bondet and/or his English-speaking daughter Hélène will guide you through their range of blends (the fragrant red trio of Trousseau, Poulsard and Pinot Noir) and racy single varietals (floral Savagnin labelled Savagnier or Balanoz and a crisp, lightly oaky Chardonnay), ending with vin jaune (pictured below), the perfect partner for aged Comté cheese.

Evening and overnight

Return north through the vineyards via Poligny to Arbois for dinner and overnight at Hotel-Restaurant Jean-Paul Jeunet, for masterly modern Jura food and a spectacular wine list.

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