The last decade has seen an explosion in wine’s ‘other’ side – other grapes, regions, countries, styles – and a tearing up of the vinous rule book. But now, we in the trade are seeing a shift back towards the known, the familiar and, ultimately, the comforting, as people seek out recognisable grape varieties and appellations once again.
When I joined the wine trade in 2012, I did so on the foundations of WSET textbook learning and the pillars of Old World regions and grape varieties. Unbeknown to me, international wine culture and, indeed, my own understanding of wine were on the cusp of a profound change.
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"}