White wines to watch: 5 grape varieties emerging around the US
Not traditionally planted in the States, these white Italian, Spanish and lesser-known French grapes are gaining ground from New York to California. Here’s why they deserve your attention.
In 2024, white wine surpassed red wine’s global market performance for the first time in more than 30 years, and that is expected to increase over the next seven years.
It’s no wonder, then, that US wineries are betting big on white wine – and not just the typical safe bets of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.
As growers seek varieties resilient to the changing climate and consumers prioritise dry, refreshing, lower alcohol and food-friendly wines, grapes not typically grown in the United States have been finding fans.
Discover five varieties you should now know, from Albariño in Napa Valley to Vermentino in Temecula.
Albariño: Napa Valley, California
Common in Spain’s Rías Baixas and Portugal’s Vinho Verde regions, Albariño has found a new home in cool-climate sub-appellations in Napa Valley.
Originally from Spain and Portugal, this grape is flourishing in Napa Valley’s coolest pockets. About 37 acres (15ha) in the valley are planted with Albariño, according to the 2025 California Grape Acreage Report, compared with 24 acres (9.7ha) in the earliest recordings there.
Doug Hill was the first to plant Albariño, in 1997 in Carneros; his Hill Family Estate has since increased its annual production of the wine from 150 cases to 650.
‘Albariño has become an increasingly popular alternative to rosé, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay,’ says proprietor Ryan Hill, noting the wine’s freshness, ample acidity, minerality and clean finish.
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Hendry Ranch Wines in Napa and Artesa in Los Carneros were also early adopters of Albariño. Hendry started by planting 2.53 acres (1ha) in 2003 and now has nine acres (3.6ha) of Albariño.
Artesa planted its Albariño vines in 2000 as a nod to the winery’s Spanish heritage (Raventós Codorníu sold the winery to Jean-Charles Boisset this fall) but didn’t release its first commercial vintage until 2016.
‘Its preference for cool climates, long growing seasons and the ability to retain bright acidity makes it exceptionally well suited to Carneros’ maritime influence,’ says Paula Borgo, Artesa’s director of winemaking.
Consumer curiosity about Albariño only began to increase about eight years ago, says Seth Cripe of Lola Wines. He planted their first Albariño in 2019 on six acres (2.4ha) in St. Helena and added two more acres (0.8ha) in Calistoga this year.
He credits Albariño’s success in Napa Valley to the region’s daily temperature swings and soil diversity, which allow Albariño to develop fruit-forward character without sacrificing structure.
‘It holds onto naturally lower pH and higher acidity, giving drinkers a dry, lower-alcohol, food-friendly white that still tastes unmistakably Napa-ripe rather than thin or green,’ says Cripe.
The grape has provided wineries with a chance to stand out in a Cabernet Sauvignon-soaked valley, which Borgo touts as ‘increasingly important’ – not because it replaces Napa’s iconic grapes, but because it can ‘add diversity, authenticity and resilience to the region’.
Artesa Pyramid Albariño Los Carneros Napa Valley 2023: A harmonious balance of ripe, tropical fruits and crisp structure
Aligoté: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Flâneur Wines has expanded its Aligoté plantings by adding a small block in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, in its Flanerie vineyard, previously mostly planted to Pinot Noir.
In May, a dozen wineries joined together for the Aligoté Affair, the Willamette Valley’s first local event dedicated to Burgundy’s second most-popular white wine. The sold-out tasting displayed how quickly a variety can make an impression. Aligoté was first planted in the region in 2015.
‘People still have a hangover from not liking buttery Chardonnays,’ says Mark Björnson of Björnson Vineyard, which currently farms one acre (0.4ha) of Aligoté. The variety’s bright flavours, zippy acidity and food-friendly character are attractive to consumers.
Rewind to 2015 when the ‘anything but Chardonnay’ mindset was at its peak. As manager of Temperance Hill Vineyard at the time, Dai Crisp was asked by the owner to plant an acre of any other white variety. He chose Aligoté.
‘We’re very similar to Burgundy in climate,’ says Crisp, whose Lumos Wine label now owns the site.
While Burgundy sits slightly farther north, the Willamette’s maritime climate keeps it similarly cool and, at an elevation of 750 feet (230 metres), Temperance was identified as especially favourable for Aligoté.
Crisp produced Lumos’ first commercial Aligoté in 2018. ‘It ripens more fruit per acre than any other variety at Temperance Hill,’ says Crisp. It is also one of the last blocks he harvests as the elevation allows for gradual ripening; the fruit achieves balance among the sugar, acidity and flavours.
Even though the Willamette is warming more slowly than Burgundy, the fact that Aligoté ripens later than Chardonnay makes the variety adaptable for the future. Crisp has also noticed the grape is less susceptible to powdery mildew and botrytis than Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Andante Vineyard and Flâneur Wines are among the dozen or so Willamette wineries that have invested in Aligoté with one-acre plantings, in 2017 and 2019, respectively.
‘Since our first vintage in 2021, we sell out of our Aligoté faster each year,’ says Marty Doerschlag, founder of Flâneur.
To match demand, they planted another three-quarter acre parcel at Flanerie Vineyard in 2022. Lumos also added an acre and Björnson is planning to plant more next autumn.
Flâneur La Belle Promenade Aligoté 2024: Bright acidity with oyster shell and green apple. The 2025 vintage will be released Monday 16 November.
Vermentino: Temecula Valley, California
Found in Italian regions such as Sardinia, Liguria and Tuscany, ripened Vermentino takes on golden, pinkish or amber hues with sun exposure.
When winemaker Olivia Blue was looking to add a new variety to Robert Renzoni Vineyards’ Temecula Valley portfolio, she did her research and realised the southern California wine country’s similarities to Sardinia – the region with the most plantings of Vermentino – with its Mediterranean climate, decomposed granite soils, afternoon ocean influence and long growing season.
‘Vermentino thrives in warm, dry climates, making it ideal for Temecula Valley,’ says Blue.
Renzoni produced its first vintage in 2016 with grapes harvested from Dos Fernandos Vineyard, four miles up the road, before investing in specialty amphora and concrete fermentation vessels for the variety; its 2023 lot sold out in five months.
‘Rather than trying to replicate what cooler regions do best, Vermentino allows Temecula to produce something that is authentic to our own growing conditions,’ says Justin Knight, winemaker of Danza del Sol Winery, which began producing Vermentino in 2010.
At that time, Vermentino wasn’t widely planted in California so other producers watched them to see how the variety would perform before committing their own acreage.
Danza del Sol saw signs of success with sellouts, repeat purchases and growing guest recognition of its Vermentino.
'What started as a wine guest’s discovery has become one they actively seek out,' says Knight, who has increased plantings from 10 acres (4ha) to 25 (10ha).
As temperatures, heat waves and droughts increase in southern California, consumers are also moving away from the bold, high-alcohol red varieties for which Temecula had been known.
Wiens Cellars winemaker Brian Marquez, who has been working with three acres (1.2ha) of Vermentino grown at Huis Vineyard since 2017, praises the variety as it 'solves both the vineyard challenges and market challenges that will define the next generation of Temecula winegrowing.'
Wiens Cellars Vermentino 2025: Grapefruit zest and sea spray on the nose turn to candied lime peel, wet stone and racy acidity. The 2025 vintage will be available this winter.
Pinot Blanc: Finger Lakes, New York
Ryan William began bottling Pinot Blanc under its own label in 2020.
In a region famed for its Riesling, it may seem improbable that another white variety could equal that reputation. Though only about nine acres (3.6ha) and counting are planted across the Finger Lakes, Pinot Blanc holds promise.
‘We were looking for something that could be an alternative to Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc but also complement them,’ shares Sarah Martini Eighmey, co-owner of Anthony Road Wine Company, about the decision to plant two acres (0.8ha) of Pinot Blanc in 2018.
The variety has thrived in the cool climate surrounding Seneca Lake to produce a ‘well-balanced wine with depth, texture and a lingering finish,’ says Eighmey. As the vines have matured, the fruit has become more consistent and expressive.
It has also gained a following; in 2025, Anthony Road sold 247 cases of Pinot Blanc, up from 42 cases of their inaugural 2021 vintage. The winery is considering doubling its plantings in the near future.
On the southeastern side of Seneca Lake, Ryan Bossert, owner-founder of Ryan William Vineyard, has believed in Pinot Blanc since 2006, when he first planted a block of it and sold the fruit to a custom-crush facility. But he didn’t craft his own label’s first vintage from that plot until 2020.
‘Our cooler climate allows the grape to retain its bright acidity – the hallmark of our region,’ says Bossert, who refers to his Pinot Blanc as the perfect wine for spring and summer, their peak tasting room seasons.
The early-ripening variety produces an acid-driven, low-alcohol wine that ‘can also be quite nuanced if planted on the right site and optimally harvested,’ adds Bossert.
Furthermore, Pinot Blanc is more disease resistant than Pinot Gris and slightly hardier – important factors during rainy, humid or cold spells. Because of that, Bossert thinks the Finger Lakes can ‘become renowned for producing world-class Pinot Blanc.’
Ryan Williams Pinot Blanc 2023: A fresh savoriness mingles with a hint of peach nectar
Petit Manseng: Virginia
Early Mountain Vineyards Maya Hood-White has helped demonstrate the high-quality potential of Petit Manseng in Virginia.
In a climate that presents wine growers with a plethora of problems—humidity, warm nights, mildew pressure and rot—Petit Manseng is emerging as the solution.
‘It is the most trouble-free variety we grow,’ says Jim Law, winegrower at Linden Vineyards in the Blue Ridge Mountains.
He planted half an acre (0.2ha) in 2002 after he visited the grape’s native Jurançon and noted that Virginia’s growing conditions mimic those of the French region.
Petit Manseng is naturally high in acid, which is especially important in Virginia since temperatures don’t cool off that much from day to night.
At Early Mountain Vineyards, this characteristic sparks confidence in the variety. They’ve doubled estate plantings to five acres (2ha).
‘It will continue to perform well even with a warming climate, given the unparalleled natural acidity – especially when compared to Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc,’ says president Jon Ruel.
Versatility is another appeal, as Petit Manseng is used for both dry and sweet wines. Crimson Lane Vineyards is looking at future additions to their lineup as they explore the grape’s full potential.
The original plan was to produce a dry Petit Manseng, but the team discovered that sugar accumulates rapidly in the grapes late in the season. An off-dry style produced the most balanced wine.
‘Today, Petit Manseng fills a unique role in our lineup,’ explains winemaker Dominick Fioresi. ‘It gives us an aromatic, food-friendly white that appeals to guests looking for something beyond Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.’
Early Mountain Vineyards Petit Manseng 2023 (95 points): Lychee and toasted croissant meet on the mid-palate before a fresh finish. (The 2024 vintage will be available this month.)
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Jillian Dara is a freelance wine, spirits, travel, and culture journalist. She loves reporting on the intersection of them all for publications including SommJournal, Wine Enthusiast, VinePair and SommTV. Jillian is partial to Napa Cab Franc but internationally she’s drawn to Carménère, discovered while living in Santiago, Chile, as well as a mineral-forward Albariño.