Petit Manseng in Virginia – why this grape could be the state's new signature variety

One hot summer day in early September 2021, I was helping Early Mountain Vineyards with the harvest.

We were processing Petit Manseng grapes and winemaker Ben Jordan wanted to show me something he and assistant winemaker Maya Hood White were working on.

He walked up to an old shipping container and opened the large heavy doors. Inside were mats and tables, with more Petit Manseng lined up on the mats.

I had read about this in my wine studies. In Italy, it is known as ‘appassimento’ where grapes are picked early to maintain their acidity, then dried ventilated rooms to concentrate the sugars.

I had never seen it done in Virginia, but Petit Manseng’s naturally high acidity made this an interesting experiment.

Innovations like these are common at Early Mountain. Today, they have an award-winning method known as ‘perpetual lees stirring’.

This was a creation of Maya Hood White, now the head winemaker at the winery.

The winery has one barrel, known as the ‘perpetual lees barrel’, which was started in 2017. The lees, spent yeast cells from fermentation, remain in the barrel every year.

Using the lees impacts more depth and savoury complexity to the younger wines. As of 2026, there are nine total vintages in the barrel. And the team has no intention of stopping anytime soon.

‘I want to be doing this for 100 years. We’re actually starting another perpetual programme to build on the volume’, said Jon Ruel, President of Early Mountain.

‘The cells are constantly breaking down and regenerating, so you don't know exactly how much of any one vintage is in there, but it gives the wine a unique personality,’ added Hood White.

While they were not the first winery to bring the grape to the state, they are a pivotal part of the grape’s position among white varieties.

Early success with Petit Manseng

Petit Manseng was first planted in Virginia by Dr. Tony Wolf of Virginia Tech University in 1987.

Dennis Horton of Horton Vineyards planted the grape just two years later in 1989 after working with wine consultant Alan Kinne. The grape thrived almost immediately.

Shannon Horton, the daughter of Dennis and current general manager of the winery, explained: ‘Alan said: “It has thick skins, loose clusters. We need that for humidity. It's like a natural rot repellent.” And Dad [Dennis] said: "Okay, let's put it in”.’

Horton eventually won the renowned Virginia Governor’s Cup in 2019 for its Petit Manseng, a rare win for a white wine.

Though Horton was technically the first winery to plant the grape, Shannon credits Virginia wine pioneer Michael Shaps for the inspiration behind their dry expression of the wine.

Shaps recalled: ‘Horton was doing the off-dry style, I took it to dry, and then Early Mountain really honed in on promoting that and featuring it.

'Early Mountain developed its Petit Manseng after making it here at my facility. It’s been fantastic to see the industry evolve over my 32 years here.’

Today, more than 179 acres (72 hectares) of Petit Manseng are planted across the state.

It is the second most planted white grape, and the third-highest planting of the grape worldwide.

The case for Petit Manseng as Virginia’s signature grape

Early Mountain took the baton for Petit Manseng from Horton and Shaps at its inception.

The winery has since become a symbol for why the grape could be a signature for the state.

Everyone starts with excitement for Petit Manseng as a near-perfect match for the climate here.

‘The looser clusters, thicker skins, its natural resistance to disease, along with the ability to maintain acidity in a region with warm nights is viticulturally compelling,’ noted Early Mountain's Ruel.

Horton added: ‘The other thing about the grape that makes it built for Virginia weather is that it can take rain and not change its chemistry. It will hold its sugars, it will hold its acid. It’s a very resilient variety for our climate.’

Since then, wineries have recognised the grape as a clear favourite. More than 60 wineries, nearly 20% of all wineries in the state, have Petit Manseng available.

In the most recent Governor’s Cup , the 34 bottles of Petit Manseng received medals.

The state remains focused on the customer as well. The team at Early Mountain discussed how customers are often looking for new interesting wines, and Petit Manseng is perfect for that.

Shaps also discussed the tasting room experience and how it is the primary selling mechanism for the state, no matter what grape we are focused on.

Newcomers in the state have also taken up the grape’s cause. Woodbrook Farm Vineyard planted its first vines in 2022 and was recognised in this year’s Governor’s Cup case for its 2024 Petit Manseng.

Novella Wines, a low-intervention label based in Monticello, kicked off its brand with a 100% Petit Manseng.

These wineries prove that Petit Manseng is no longer a successful experiment but a way to express Virginia’s voice in the industry.

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