Inspired by Bordeaux: The long history of Virginia’s Meritage blends
Virginia's long winemaking history goes back to ‘founding father’ Thomas Jefferson and his fixation on Bordeaux. Virginia local Sedale McCall takes a look at why the Meritage red blend suits the state so well and recommends 10 examples to seek out.
When consumers step into a Virginia winery, the array of options can be overwhelming. Tastings often feature around six wines, typically three white and three red, usually including a few favoured varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.
However, unlike most established American wine regions, Virginia hasn’t yet settled on a flagship grape that serves as its signature.
But, maybe, it doesn’t need one.
This is because, in most of these tastings, the experience will culminate with a red blend. Many of these are ‘Meritage‘ blends, a term coined in the United States for wines made using Bordeaux’s ‘noble grapes.’
These blends have become a true calling card for Virginia, a testament to both the unique vineyard conditions and the winemaker’s ability to answer every challenge vintage to vintage.
Scroll down for the best examples of contemporary Virginia Meritage
Why Blending Works in Virginia
Virginia’s viticulture is unique in a couple of important ways. Firstly, its climate is moderate, humid, and subtropical.
This means it can experience warmer temperatures than classic European regions, especially during summer, and generally receives more rainfall than top US wine-growing areas along the West Coast.
Vintages here can vary dramatically year-to-year. For instance, the 2023 and 2024 vintages were relatively dry and warm, yielding some of the best wines in recent history.
In contrast, 2022 saw significant challenges from powdery mildew, the threat of Hurricane Ian and spotted lantern flies, while 2021 contended with damaging spring frosts and downy mildew.
One might assume the pandemic was the primary issue in 2020, but a remarkable 13 hurricane events made that year even more challenging for grape growers. This variability underscores the necessity of blending to achieve consistent quality.
Secondly, Virginia’s focus on European-style blends is deeply rooted in its history.
A Bit of Wine History
While Virginia has emerged as a significant player in American wine over the past 30 years, viticulture here dates back to before the country’s founding.
As many may know, America’s third president, Thomas Jefferson, harboured ambitions to establish Virginia as a premier wine-producing region after his travels in France.
He even enlisted Italian winemaker Philip Mazzei to cultivate European grapes and form Virginia’s first wine company.
Although the American Revolution literally trampled this early experiment (in 1778 many of the vines were reportedly destroyed by horses running amok), the historic site where it all began is now home to Jefferson Vineyards.
This early aspiration to emulate Bordeaux remains an important influence.
Commitment to quality
Today, these red blends are a signature of Virginia’s world-class wines. The state’s commitment to quality is evident in annual competitions like the Virginia Governor’s Cup, a statewide competition.
Blind-tasted by a judging panel, gold medal-winning wines are eligible for the prestigious Governor’s Cup Case, with the top-scoring wine being the overall winner.
This year, out of 155 gold medalists, 89 were red wines, nearly 60%. Of those, 42 were blends, with 22 formally designated as Meritage blends.
At Decanter‘s most recent World Wine Awards, nine wines from Virginia received accolades. Seven of them were red wines, and four of those were blends.
While white wines are increasingly building a strong reputation in the state, these red blends consistently stand out as the category through which Virginia truly makes its name.
What’s Ahead for Virginia Red Blends
Though Virginia doesn’t claim a single signature grape, it has successfully cultivated a distinct identity through the Meritage blend.
These wines expertly leverage the state’s warm, humid summers and its long, if sometimes challenging, winemaking history.
At their best, these blends demonstrate a clear path to producing consistent, world-class wines in Virginia, year after year.
Virginia Meritage: 10 wines to find
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Barboursville Vineyards, Octagon, Monticello AVA, Virginia, USA, 2017
The 2017 Octagon is a testament to legendary winemaker Luca Paschina and the Barboursville team. Octagon is a signature wine crafted only in vintages of exceptional quality. The 2017 growing season provided ideal conditions with gentle spring rains and a warm, yet never excessively hot, summer. This Merlot-dominant blend (clone 181) is 100% estate-grown, sourced from two distinct Merlot parcels, one parcel of Cabernet Franc, and one of Petit Verdot. It is earthy on the nose, with nuanced notes of mushroom, dried sage, and a hint of tobacco leaf. These savoury components are met with ripe black cherry, blackberry, and plum. At eight years of age, this wine displays balance and structure, with more time to go in the cellar.
2017
Barboursville VineyardsMonticello AVA
King Family Vineyards, Mountain Plains Blend, Monticello AVA, Virginia, USA, 2021
From the heart of the Monticello AVA, King Family Vineyards remains a fixture in Virginia wine, guided by icons Michael Shaps and Matthieu Finot. The Mountain Plains blend, produced in years of optimal growing conditions, is a strong expression in the 2021 vintage. The year was standard for the state with manageable spring frosts, a hot, dry summer, and some late-season rain. Grapes are hand-harvested from vineyards at 800 feet of elevation, contributing to the wine's character. This Cabernet Franc and Merlot-led blend spent 22 months in French oak before final blending and further maturation. The nose offers ripe red and blue fruits, complemented by notes of anise and delicate florals. On the palate, it is well-balanced, showcasing smooth, polished tannins, seamlessly integrated oak, and a vibrant acidity that carries the wine through to a long finish.
2021
King Family VineyardsMonticello AVA
Breaux Vineyards, Meritage, Middleburg, Virginia, USA, 2020
Jennifer Breaux is an established figure in Virginia wine, and Breaux Vineyards has produced wines for nearly 30 years, all from their estate vineyards in Loudoun County. The 2020 vintage presented significant challenges, including spring frost damage and 13 hurricanes across the state. Unsurprisingly, this Meritage blend is dominated by the hardy Cabernet Franc, along with Petit Verdot and Malbec. Both red and black fruit notes pop out of the glass: raspberry, strawberry, and blueberry, with underlying hints of black currant and nutmeg. Aged in French oak, the wine displays smooth tannins and a balanced acidity, making it approachable now while possessing the structure to age over time.
2020
Breaux VineyardsMiddleburg
Veritas, Reserve, Monticello, Virginia, USA, 2022
Emily Hodson, winemaker and daughter of Veritas founders Andrew and Patricia, continued a winemaking legacy of over 25 years with this wine. The Reserve is their signature collection. The master blend is meticulously crafted through an intense sampling of barrels across the cellar. The 2022 Reserve is uniquely led by Cabernet Franc rather than the more typical Petit Verdot. Aromas of bright red and darker black fruits immediately come through, followed by hints of baking spice and vanilla. The palate reveals integrated oak, balanced acidity, and refined tannins, all contributing to the wine’s structure. This Reserve is poised to age gracefully for up to 15 years.
2022
VeritasMonticello
50 West, Aldie Heights Cuvée, Middleburg, Virginia, USA, 2021
Winemaker Jason Burrus gained experience in the humid growing conditions of Malta before making his way to Virginia in 2006. Sourced from 20-year-old vines in the Shenandoah Valley, planted at over 1,000 feet (330m) of elevation, this blend is predominantly Tannat and Petit Verdot, which accounts for its intense, inky black hue in the glass. The nose and palate consist of concentrated black fruits like blackberry, blueberry, and black cherry, with elegant undertones of baking spices, nutmeg, and vanilla. Aged for 26 months in French oak and undergoing complete malolactic conversion, the wine has smooth, integrated tannins.
2021
50 WestMiddleburg
Fifty-Third Winery, Romulus, Virginia, USA, 2021
The fruit for Fifty-Third Winery comes from the Simmons Gap Vineyard, nestled in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains within the Monticello AVA. Vines are planted at 800-1,100 feet in elevation, and soils are a diverse mix of clay, loam, granite and shale. Cabernet Sauvignon dominates this blend from two different blocks, along with Petit Verdot. It showcases a remarkable approachability and balance. After 20 months in a mix of French and American oak, the tannins are integrated, creating a seamless palate. It features primary notes of fresh, bright cranberries, strawberries, and raspberries, with some delicate floral notes.
2021
Fifty-Third Winery
Brix & Columns, McGahey, Shenandoah Valley AVA, Virginia, USA, 2020
While the 2020 vintage presented challenges across the region due to significant hurricane activity and spring frosts, the Shenandoah Valley's position within a rain shadow provided for a more successful harvest. Planted in 2015, the vineyard sits on a hillside at the base of Massanutten Mountain. The blend is split evenly between Merlot, Petit Verdot and Tannat. It shows some signs of age on the nose with savoury aromas of cured meat and fine tobacco. Underneath that are subtle notes of blackberry and blueberry. The palate is balanced, with smooth tannins and a noticeable but pleasant influence of oak.
2020
Brix & ColumnsShenandoah Valley AVA
Jefferson Vineyards, Meritage, Middleburg, Virginia, USA, 2021
From the historic grounds where Thomas Jefferson and Italian viticulturist Philip Mazzei began Virginia's winemaking journey, the 2021 Jefferson Vineyards Meritage is a testament to this vision. This blend featuring Merlot and Petit Verdot comes from vines planted on land once owned by Mazzei. The nose is inviting, with primary notes of black cherry, blueberry, and tart cranberry, a hint of plum and jasmine. On the palate, the bright fruit flavours are accompanied by baking spices and a touch of clove. The wine has lively acidity and structured tannins, made to age.
2021
Jefferson VineyardsMiddleburg
Delaplane Cellars, Piedmont Station, Middleburg, Virginia, USA, 2022
This Piedmont Station blend from Delaplane Cellars capitalised on the warm, dry summer of the 2022 vintage. Sourced from 20-year-old vines in the Shenandoah Valley, this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend pours a deep, garnet colour. On the nose, it has earth tones of fresh forest floor and rich turned soil, with baking spices like cinnamon and clove, and ripe dark fruits. The palate is well-balanced and approachable, with integrated oak and smooth tannins. The palate adds notes of ripe blackberry, cassis and a subtle hint of vanilla. This is a wine with the structure to produce more complex layers of flavour over time.
2022
Delaplane CellarsMiddleburg
Barren Ridge, Meritage, Shenandoah Valley AVA, Virginia, USA, 2019
This wine is a testament to the hot, dry 2019 vintage, which allowed for balanced sugar development and vibrant acidity. It is a blend that is led by Petit Verdot and Merlot, all grown on the estate from vines planted in 2007. This wine is a deep ruby colour with a subtle pinkish rim. With a bit of air, the wine pops with rich dark fruit notes of blackberry, blueberry, and plum, with undertones of cinnamon and cassis. The tannins are bold but well-integrated, providing a structured palate without harshness. Aged for 14 months in a combination of French and American oak, this wine has excellent cellaring potential and will continue to develop complexity and character over the next few years.
2019
Barren RidgeShenandoah Valley AVA
