He's been accused of having it in for South Africa, and being overly critical of its reds (especially those 'rubbery' ones). So we asked Tim Atkin MW to tell us what's great about the Cape.
ATKIN’S TOP WHITES
Cape Point, Isliedh, Noordhoek 2007 ***** (18.5/20)
Duncan Savage thinks he hasn’t hit his
full potential yet. Heaven help his rivals
when he does. This ageworthy, barrelfermented
Sauvignon-Semillon is the Cape’s Domaine de Chevalier. £22; HvN; SVi
Ken Forrester, The FMC Chenin Blanc,
Stellenbosch 2008 ***** (18.5)
Ken Forrester’s turbo-charged, barrelfermented,
bush vine-sourced FMC is rich,
honeyed and toasty, with lashings of new
oak and ripe tropical fruit. £17.99; Wai
Hamilton Russell, Chardonnay, Hemel
and Aarde Valley 2008 ***** (18.5)
The competition to make the Cape’s best
Chardonnay gets more ferocious by the
vintage, but Hamilton Russell is still (just)
out in front. This is a superb Burgundianstyle
white, with oak, minerality and
citrus fruit in near perfect harmony.
£17–£23.50; Ave, Evi, GGr, Hai, Han, Har,
Jer, MiL, N&P, SLp, SWO, Teg, WDi, WnS
Tokara, White, Stellenbosch 2007 ***** (18.5)
As at Vergelegen, the top white wine here
just pips the red for complexity and broad
appeal. This blend of Sauvignon with 15%
Semillon is leesy and rich, with elegant
oak, toast and remarkable freshness for
such a big wine. £19; Hic, SLp, SWO
Vergelegen, Flagship White,
Stellenbosch 2008 ***** (18.5)
André van Rensburg would argue that all
the wines he makes are brilliant, but a few
stand out from a excellent range. This
equal blend of Sauvignon and Semillon is
his best white yet: grapefruit, honeysuckle,
toast and a fine, herbal finish. £22; Jer, Lay
Ataraxia, Chardonnay,
Western Cape 2008 **** (18)
Kevin Grant used to make the wines at
Hamilton Russell until 2004 and clearly
learned a few things about Chardonnay
there. This creamy, elegant, beautifully
focused Chardonnay from Elgin and
Hemel en Aarde fruit is a star.
£14.50; SVS
Cape Chamonix, Chardonnay Reserve,
Franschhoek 2008 **** (18)
Gottfried Mocke makes some of the Cape’s
most refined wines; this dry-farmed,
barrel-fermented, Puligny-like Chardonnay
is at the top of the pile: fresh, toasty and
superb balance. £12.99–£15; Ben, BoC, Han
Groot Constantia, Sauvignon Blanc,
Constantia 2009 **** (18)
An excellent follow up to 2008 from an
historic property no longer overshadowed
by other local producers. Citrus fruit,
green fig and green pepper intermingle
in this sappy, zesty white. £9.99; Maj
Neil Ellis, Sauvignon Blanc,
Groenekloof 2008 **** (18)
Neil Ellis makes great red and Chardonnay,
but I think this Sauvignon is his best
wine. Depth of gooseberry and a hint of
tropical fruit with taut minerality and
impressive concentration. £9.36– £14.95;
Maj, Pip, Rai, Rbs, SWO, VLL
Steenberg, Semillon,
Constantia 2008 **** (18)
Why isn’t there more Semillon in the
Cape? Many out there are delicious like
this barrel-fermented, low-yielding one:
rich, textured and herbal with crunchy
green bean and buttered toast notes.
£21.55; Arm
Raats, Chenin Blanc,
Stellenbosch 2008 **** (17.5)
Bruwer Raats makes the Cape’s best
Cabernet Franc and one of its outstanding
Chenins. It’s tighter and more focused
than many, with subtle oak, intense apple,
quince and vanilla flavours and bright,
palate-cleansing acidity. £12.99; ExW,
Han, Har, MgW, SVF, TVD, Vgy, You
The Foundry, Grenache Blanc,
Swartland 2009 **** (17.5)
As well as making the wines at Meerlust,
Chris Williams has his own brand. His
Syrah and Viognier are both top notch,
but this minerally, lightly oaked example
could outdo them both. £8.99; WSo
ATKIN’S TOP REDS
Sadie Family, Columella,
Swartland 2007 ***** (19/20)
When I tasted the eight components of
this wine from barrel, I thought it was
one of the greatest Cape reds I’d ever
tried. Now it’s in bottle, I’m not changing
my mind: violets, plums, liquorice and
very fine, savoury tannins. £45; Swg, WSo
De Toren, Fusion V,
Stellenbosch 2007 ***** (18.5)
A deceptively forward yet classic blend of
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet
Franc, 15% Malbec, 10% Merlot and 5%
Petit Verdot. I love its freshness allied to
subtle oak and cassis and chocolate
notes. £24–£27; BBR, Han, Swg, SWO, WSo
Engelbrecht Els, Proprietor’s Blend,
Stellenbosch 2006 ***** (18.5)
Ernie Els’ reds are as smooth as his
legendary golf swing. This blend of five
Bordeaux varieties plus 20% Shiraz is
huge, but its alcohol is balanced by rich
fruit and fine tannins. £20.99–£23.99;
DLL, Gen, GGr, Hed, L&S, SWO, WHo
Waterford, The Jem,
Stellenbosch 2005 ***** (18.5)
Since the first Jem in 2004, Waterford has
shifted into another gear. This Cabernetbased
blend of seven French and Italian
varieties is powerful, perfumed and
complete. £38.95; BBR, Odd
Boekenhoutskloof, The Chocolate Block,
Western Cape 2008 **** (18)
Marc Kent’s straight Syrah and Cabernet
are more classic but this wacky blend of
Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet, Cinsault and
Viognier is perfumed, smooth, spicy,
complex and packed with blackberry and
apricot fruit. £20; BoA, Bon, CeD, F&F,
F&M, Han, HgD, Hgt, Hig, Hnt, Imb, MBW,
Odd, P&S, PLG, Rbs, SWO, TVS, Vik, WaD,
WCc, WDi, Wmb, WWi, You
Kanonkop, Pinotage, Stellenbosch 2008 **** (18)
I chose the straight Pinotage over the
Paul Sauer and Bush Vine Pinotage, as
it’s a great example of what the variety
can do: silky tannins, voluptuous red fruit,
spicy oak and harmonious balancing
acidity. £17–£19.95; Har, Maj, Pip, SWO,
VLL, WSo
Hartenberg, The Stork Shiraz,
Stellenbosch 2005 **** (18)
One of a handful of thrilling Syrahs made
in the Cape, Carl Schultz’s has a New
World style, with a nod to the Barossa
Valley rather than Hermitage. Bramble,
blackberry and liquorice, with lashings of
oak. £33.50; DLL, Har, HBa, SWO, Vik, WLi
Meerlust, Rubicon,
Stellenbosch 2004 **** (18)
Chris William’s first vintage at this
historic Cape winery brought about
substantial improvements. This blend
of 60% Cabernet, 27% Merlot and 13%
Franc is ripe, yet extremely elegant,
in a Cape-meets-Margaux style.
£21.99; BcW, Evy, F&M, F&R, Han, Hds,
Hgt, HvN, L&S, MHL, P&S, Par, PLG, PWA,
Rbs, SeL, Smp, Swg, SWO, Vik, WSo, WFM,
Wmb, WnW, WUH
Rustenberg, Peter Barlow,
Stellenbosch 2005 **** (18)
Unusually for a top Cape wine, this is
entirely Cabernet Sauvignon. Super-ripe,
bold and expressive, with masses of
oak and cassis fruit, yet with dense
tannins that need time to unfurl.
£25.50–£28; DLL, F&M, Hed, L&S, OWC,
SWO, Swg, Vir
Vilafonté, Series C, Paarl 2005 **** (18)
Mike Ratcliffe’s venture with Californians
Zelma Long and Phil Freese has yielded
two excellent wines, M and C. I just
prefer the latter, based on Cabernets
Sauvignon and Franc. Serious, dense,
Bordeaux-like with great ageing potential.
£25; Han, SWO
Thelema, Merlot,
Stellenbosch 2007 **** (17.5)
Thelema has been around for so long
it often gets overlooked, despite its
brilliance. Its Limited Release Reserve
Merlot is the best example of the grape
in South Africa, but this isn’t far behind.
Mint, chocolate and grainy tannins.
£14; AGW, WDi
ATKIN’S SWEETS
De Trafford, Straw Wine,
Stellenbosch 2006 ***** (18.5)
South African critics get very excited
about David Trafford’s reds, but I prefer
his Chenins, especially this remarkable
straw wine made from air-dried grapes,
with its notes of vanilla oak, honey, dried
fruits and tarte tatin.
£17.50 (375ml); Bib
Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards,
Vin Pi Two, Tulbagh NV***** (18.5)
TMV makes some of my favourite Cape
Rhône-style reds but this solera-produced
Chenin is exotic, floral, yet smoky with
flavours of crême caramel, dried fruits
and 300 grams per litre of sugar.
£25.99 (375ml); CeD, CPe, VLL, WCt
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