Jefford on Monday

January draws to a close. For a few of my friends, that means the end of an abstemious, alcohol-free month.

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There were 923 ha of vineyards planted in England back in 2006. By 2010, the figure had reached 1,324 ha; it’s probably around 1,500 ha now.

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Across the southern hemisphere’s winelands, harvesting machines are being fine-tuned in readiness for the three months of frenzied activity which redeems their nine months of idleness.

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Wine quality is complex. Like most things in life, the creation of fine wine has elements which are easy to quantify, and others which are intangible. One of these intangibles has been nagging at me for a year or two; it became impossible to ignore as I was sitting in a busy Buenos Aires restaurant a few months ago. More of that in a moment.

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Tasting great wines is a privilege. They gather light and warmth into the mouth, as well as offering a sensorial synopsis of distant places on earth; they mean time spent with beauty.

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