Jefford on Monday

I'm just back from Alain Brumont's 'Rendez-Vous des Icônes' – an open weekend when, amidst a welter of vertical tastings, festive meals and cellar tours, Madiran's hyper-active master craftsman pits three of his own best wines against seven of the world's best. Twice.

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I spend more time thinking about terroir than is healthy. Alas, the obsession shows no sign of ending.

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Over the last three years, I’ve spent a lot of time talking about tea with the wine producers I have met on my travels. Yes, it's a personal enthusiasm of mine, but that wasn’t the principal reason for raising the subject. So what was?

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What’s the best way to taste wine? It’s a simple question – but the answer is as tangled as the root system in a mangrove swamp.

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